I might need a second opinion but those don't look good to me at all @GreyImport Try the carby cleaner test next time carbs are back on. If you need a video let me know and I'll make one.
no tacho cause in the early days of the fixing bike fell over and smashed the tacho and was gonna fix it and put back on but dog found the rear caseing and chewed it to 100's of pieces. Got bigger clearer pic GI? Also does anyone know where I can get a decent but cheap air filter? Really don't want to be spending $60+
I know the feeling of having your dog chew your bike it's rather painful :S I found the part number for it 3TJ-14451-00 you could try that at your local yammy dealer, or it appears it also suits the fzr400 from certain years
Yeah I've got the part number, just finding one :/ most bike shops only seem to be able to get genuine ones that have been over the $100 mark
Yeah I just had a look around seems harder to find then any filter before....... Not on there ruckus.
My biggest draw back is trying to do stuff on the cheap, cause either I have a job and not much money coming in or like the moment no job at all :/ Either way all this can be tomorrows issue
not enough negative vac pressure, air leaks, float height, or even a cooked fuel pump (assuming your model does have one) hopefully the ignition system is not failing under heat/load. this can happen
Floats are good and have been set to factory standards, fuel pump is 100% working fine. Ignition itself appears to working fine.
That is the same filter as used on the FZR400 3TJ1 http://www.hirochi.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1938_1957_1958&products_id=291371 I have bought from them before but they will not respond to me anymore. I need to buy one myself.
What is the dimension of that filter as it look identical to a Honda one. Re the 520 chain conversion; why did you put the heavier chain on, and could it be 'dragging' power from the engine trying to turn it?
http://www.millwaysparesonline.com.au/find/part/M.206341 http://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d89.html http://www.motorparts.nl/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=79_90_106_524 ? http://www.cmsnl.com/products/elementair-cleaner_3tj1445100/
Don't know about the Uni-Filter but the 1WG filter is taller than the standard one and it will not fit. Some people have bought K&N filters that suit the 1WG and squashed them down to fit the 3TJ. That sounds like increasing the restriction of the filter to me. There is also the Hi-Flo filter but it is actually for the 1WG (I know because I bought one) and you cannot squash these ones down. http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/...101_-_1tj-141000/89/picture/air_filter_hiflo/ Hi-Flo do not make a filter for this model and told me that they never will. The Uni-Filter might be a good option if it is actually the correct size.
hints and tips from a qualified tech point of view.... if its the same with the pod filters as the standard air filter... I doubt that is the problem... but Mikuni BDST style carbs are designed to run on the negative pressures created inside the air box... pod filters don't create the correct negative pressures.... looking at the parts book, the zeal doesn't run EXUP... but then neither does the 2KR but my mates has one fitted... set in a fixed position... worth checking no one has changed the exhaust... My fizzer is running 15/47 gearing on a 520 chain and is fine (9000rpm @ 100kph) Spark problems would show up as missfires at rpm (coils, leads and plugs)... not a lack of extending the power range past a certain RPM... the timing is fixed by the pick up on the Stator rotor, and adjusted by the control unit... normally if the control unit plays up... you would lose all spark... a partial blockage in the fuel filter can show up when you need the added power... ie: revs out fine in lower gears, not in higher... fuel pump would show up as running out of fuel totally past the point where gravity feed stops... The main jets only supply as much fuel as the needle lift by the pistons will allow... again this could be a problem caused by pod filters, or damaged diaphragms on the carby pistons, the o-ring seal on the diaphragm cap etc etc with a worn cam chain... it might affect the valve timing by a few degrees, but the noises are from play on slack side, my cam chain is noisy, but when I last did valve clearances, the cam timing wasn't out by more than 1 degree of crankshaft revolution... ok, so I'd be checking for vacuum problems... the carby mounts... and they are (by the parts manual) similar to my 400 and have vacuum hoses between them to block off the balancing ports... splits in the rubber (do this with water sprayer or carby cleaner, RPM will be affected if you spray a leak... or in a pinch and with caution, petrol in a sprayer bottle, RPM will increase if you spray a leak) Carby pistons all move freely... full travel by hand and all lift equally when you free rev the engine... one not lifting could be a split diaphragm... or the o-ring under the diaphragm cap... Also check the diaphragm filters... I had a problem where someone had put a piece of hose between the two diaphragm filters which actually restricted the air pressure on the diaphragms (not the vacuum side) atmosphere side and restricted the lift because it was creating a vacuum on that side of the diaphragms... there are 2 and they stick out the front of the carbys under the air box, on a t piece between carby 1 and 2, and between carby 3 and 4... see the picture... if these filters are blocked, it could have a similar effect as the hose on them... simple test... remove them, and go for a ride... if it goes properly they are blocked... hope some of this helps...
Cheers rossco im gonna go buy some carby cleaner tomorrow and check for leaks (im thinking this could my issue the more i look at the connectors) will also try without those filters on. They don't have a hose running from each other so thats a good start.
Anyone know best place to get the Carby boots that attach to engine from? I'm assuming it's gonna be an expensive exercise, or is there a way to repair them at all?