It certainly could it could also be leaning out due to no airbox or have manifold leaks, these inline 4s are really finicky the slightest wrong setting ruins them.
STOCK = How the bike was designed and built to run at its best by some very intelligent Japanese gentlemen many years ago.
I missed that post about your gearing ...Im no super expert but 60kmh at 10000RPM? My Fizzer is doing 100kmh at 10000 ,,,, and its geared for acceleration Im not sure how the 520 chain mod sits in the equation but I remember reading somewhere its not a great thing to do I would be fitting standard teeth # sprockets and chain pitch Im about to revert my FZR back to standard to get the cruising revs down and hopefully better fuel consumption.
All right I'll save up some dosh go up to the stock Front 17 and Rear 57 with 428-130 chain perhaps and check those carby needles and see where that takes me, would I even be better off just keeping with sprockets and chains I have and just change the sizing of one of the sprockets?
Yea just looking at that table u posted the setup u have with that chain is right ...... I don't know wat the 520 mod is supposed to do but maybe it gives u stacks of acceleration and no top end. try the gearing commander as it will tell u wat u get with different combos ..... http://www.gearingcommander.com/ I would check the needle clips are correct ..... cheapest option first
It might be just me but those figures don't seem too bad for gearing. I think the pods are masking the issue. I would grab a new air filter and close up the airbox. Then with the bike running spray carb cleaner or start ya bastard around the base of the carbs, the carby boots and anywhere the airbox seals, if the revs rise you have an air leak, which if affected by carb cleaner at idle then at road speed under load will be making the bike run insanely lean.
Haha yer I have this debate with ppl company's spent millions on r&d to get a bike going good for all cars and bikes and ppl do some weird stuff changing it I see the point if u r racing as u r trying to get peak performance for small time not a daily ride If needles have washers under them and arnt meant to take them out or clip position I'm not fimiliar with the zeal
Would imagine the needle set up should be the same as the FZR wouldn't they? Unfortunately GC doesn't have the FZX250 in their list using the Fizzer 250 as a base model to work from seeing as they're similar
This is roughly what I can come up with using GC Current Setup What I'm thinking of going to The number tell me it should up it's speed a little, obviously gonna check those carbys again cause it does really feel like a fuel issue, plugs shouldn't be the issue as they're barely 2000kms old, probably wouldnt hurt to check my leads though
It might be just me but those figures don't seem too bad for gearing. I think the pods are masking the issue. I would grab a new air filter and close up the airbox. Then with the bike running spray carb cleaner or start ya bastard around the base of the carbs, the carby boots and anywhere the airbox seals, if the if the revs rise you have an air leak, which if affected by carb cleaner at idle then at road speed under load will be making the bike run insanely lean.
Scroll down this page and it mentions clip position https://sites.google.com/site/yamahafzx250zeal/parts-list/carburettor And to really rock your brain cells have a read here .... http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/when-are-the-different-jets-used-in-carbs.1990/
Down where the carbs meet the engine and anywhere outside where the airbox should seal to the carbs, and the top part to the bottom, I'd put a sizeable wager that a leaky air intake is your problem.
these are the rubbers connecting carby to motor but there is no visible cracks on the inside of the rubbers at all.
I already have one hat to eat that's more then enough. Actually I might get my dog to fill in for me on that he seems to enjoy that kind of thing haha, Ps @HiveFleetAbyss why don't you have the tachometer mounted permanently?