That smoke looks like valve stem seals, it seems to collect in the exhaust on idle them get blown out on the blip on the throttle. I've just found a reasonably priced set on ebay, just in case I need to do mine once I get it running. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valve-Stem-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item43c1656e83 These guys seem to have everything for complete engine rebuilds minus the cylinder head and base gaskets. I'm not however planning on doing that, though I'm willing to bet they're out of the same factory as the genuine parts - just not the genuine box. I am concocting a way to do valve stems with the cylinder head still attached, and it's not difficult at all. If any of my engine bearings are noisy then I'll do a full rebuild with a howto - I'm hoping they're not though The masochistic part of me enjoys rebuilding engines though...the contradictions For reference I just rebuilt a Barina XC Z14XE engine and the parts from the UK weren't expensive at all, only difference was the boxes were from OEM suppliers. ~$650 for all parts including a full set of 16 new valves. peace out
Given that Grey's bike has been sitting for a long time and that the smoke clears up after some running, Ruckusman's prognosis could well be the correct one. If you are going to pressurise the cylinders to replace the seals in situ, just be very careful when you first try to compress the valve spring. You want the valve to stay put as you compress the spring but the collets can be sticky. A light tap with a drift on to the spring retainer before attempting to compress the spring should help. Myself I would just pop the head off, but that's just me. cheers Blair
If you REALLY must do it with the head in situ, an old trick is to remove the plug and with the piston at the bottom of cylinder feed in as much small rope as you can, then turn the crank to bring piston up the bore compressing the rope. This will hold the valves closed so you can compress the springs to remove the collets. I would suggest using about 6mm rope for this to help with cylinder filling, leaving some exposed to remove after valve spring is refitted. Should be cheap enough at Bunning's.
That's exactly the technique I was going to describe - well done. It beats having to remove the head and the excessive cost of the gaskets - which is way too high IMO. If I were to remove the cylinder head I'd be thinking, OH why not, new rings, then it's be check the crank and main bearings, OH why not replace them if the crank measures up to spec and before long you've spent way more than intended. It's easy to get carried away Only bonus would be checking the valve seats and valves themselves. peace out
JOINT, AIR CLEANER 3LN-14453-00 x 4 on order from my local Yamaha dealer $11.30 each .... which is ok when u factor in shipping with the other sources. Something that my mate the parts guy confirmed for me also for anyone looking for genuine parts 3LN-14453-00-00 Red = Bike model Blue = The actual part number .... the important bit Green = 00 is original issue , 01 is superceded , etc Orange = American reference number
Looks to be a Yam system that seems to follow some logic Heres the info on the Suzuki exhaust gasket I still have up .... doesnt seem to follow the same path fits: Suzuki OEM number: 14181-05020 product number: 1418105020 this product is superseded by 1418118C00
Hey Mr Grey, how come your local dealer could get these? Do they fit a Yamaha that was imported to Aus? Come on get that fizzer fired up in earnest. I need a fizzer pic for my postcard page. I'm still waiting for Phil to send me a nice Bandit shot. Where are you Phil?
Now Mr Grey, About that photo; background mmmmmm a little gaudy, lighting ok, but what happened to your usual on the money focus?
Thats a good question ...one I should have asked him . Photo was just a rush job as my enthusiasm for it is zero at the moment.
They look good Grey, once fitted and the bike runs as you want it to, one would assume that is the best $50.00 you spent of recent. We can't wait to hear her running as this will lift your spirits and all the hard work will soon become but a distant nightmare. Time to enjoy the fruits of your labour.
Are they any softer then the originals I should hope so that was the one job I always hated on my fizzer absolute bugger to get back on to the carbys Bike is coming on great!!!
When I was rebuilding the carbs I got some silicone grease for re-assembly. Since then I've used it on brake seals, fork seals and everything else rubber, so soon my carbs when refitting also. It makes it so much easier re-assembling rubber parts and it helps preserve them and make airtight seals also. I've already tested it with the carbs back into their manifold - huge difference compared to removing them. I apply it with cotton buds so a small tube will last years. Castrol I think make red rubber grease, though the brand I got was blue - same stuff different colour. peace out
Think I might invest in a tube, carbs can be such a pain and of recent I've taken to a quick spray of wd40 and they slide in no problems. The silicone grease will have a longer life span I would guess, anything to ease the pain.
Actually red rubber grease is made from castor oil and calcium soap, whatever that might be, and is primarily aimed at brake seals. I used to use silicone grease for electrical terminals too.
Im AWOL for a few days and my thread goes down the toilet! Yes they are awesome ...highly recommended .....this one took me 5 minutes to get it in place ...... very flexible though
Don't know why this thread hasn't shown up on my alerts or emails. A lot has happened since I last viewed this thread. Well done on getting it running, especially after all that carb trouble. Bit smoky though. GI, where did you get your bar ends from? I'm looking to replace mine. Both bikes aren't the best. Head on over to mine for an update.