The Jet housing, #40 in the parts book, shows a different part number from the 3LN1 to the 3LN3 & 3LN5. So that is what is going on there I think. I have the parts pages for the carbs at the bottom of the web page for each model. Direct link here http://litetek.co/docs/FZR250_3LN.pdf
If the 2kr ones are a bolt on fit. I do. But in saying that, that bike (as stated in my thread) has not been started in circa 5 years.
Oh silly me. I did not even look at the jet housing seal. The black one is from a 3LN3. http://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Yamaha_FZR250_3LN3.html
Thanx for figuring that out Blair ...... Ive chosen to ignore them for now The one with the jet sticking out is the 3LN3 one ..... the spares bike I got with the runner is 3LN1 in every other aspect that I can tell...... of course who really knows what has happened with past owners. I was going to glue up that pipe originally but thought I had a perfectly fine replacement! will any old epoxy glue be heatproof so to speak? I havnt studied that newer jet housing setup in detail but I would guess its a better fuel flow design? Might be worth overhauling those 3LN3 carbs eventually as well.
I don't think that heat would be any problem. Resistance to solvents would be more important. I would use Araldite, 3M or some other name brand.
hay grey try this justin at bikebits tas he has some fzr`s he might be able to help he has helped me out a bit give him acall 0477 297 668 let me know how you go
Thanx everyone for the help, suggestions and offers but Ive decided to tip petrol over it and burn it to the ground. Just kidding ...... Im going use what I have and stick it (literally) all together and see if she runs ok ...... it surely has to be a thousand times better than it was , from wat can be seen in the earlier photos of the carbs.
GI get some epoxy and seal the outside of that choke pipe - I can't quite figure the flow principles or direction but to look at it seems like it controls airflow through the enricher circuit - turning it on and off I don't think the fuel runs up that circuit so you don't have to be concerned about solvent resistance. If it did, the underside of the rubber diaphragm would get petrol all over it. Remove a tiny bit of the flare on the brass section, small propane torch and heat then cool quickly a few times, so it fits snug again and get some JB weld or equivalent. Carb get a little heat - yes, - not enough to re-soften any decent thermoset epoxy. I've got some Devcon stuff - JBWeld equivalent AFAIK, now as long as your surfaces are clean it will stick and stay stuck but you want it outside the push fit between the pipe and where it's housed on the carb body so get them prepped and just seal the outside. peace out Glenn
Did you get this sandlblasted, primed then powdercoated? I've got a little surface rust on small section of both front and rear subframes and considering getting both items powdercoated peace out Glenn
The little wire brush attachment you have there can also be used to remove dried brake fluid buildup from the brake caliper seal grooves - I had to completely strip and clean my calipers to get the pistons moving freely.
Yea it was just a 'small' husband and wife business in the local industrial area ....... certainly not some fancy building with u beaut signage and a blonde receptionist ...... but he had plenty of work that I could see and he said he does a ton of bike frames .... he even charged me less than he originally quoted
hear grey check this out http://translate.googleusercontent....7/2655&usg=ALkJrhjoFUxtKNll0Co0zfiDhomOYgyaXA