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Linkin's FZR250 3LN6

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Linkin, Oct 26, 2014.

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  1. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    GreyImport, Aug 20, 2015
    #161
  2. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    We got them at Chris's mechanics shop.....from memory they were 8 mm and they charged me $3.00 each. Best $9.00 we ever spent... brakes were bleed in minutes, highly recommend.
     
    Phil, Aug 20, 2015
    #162
  3. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Sanded & panted rear subframe today

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Also cleaned up the front brake calipers, changed the pads, and put new fluid in. No broken bleed nipples this time. Covered them in inox and tapped them with the mallet.

    [​IMG]

    I've had my fill of filthy brakes now... next up are the forks.
     
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    Linkin, Aug 21, 2015
    #163
  4. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Those brakes aren't the cleanest, dirty job.
     
    Phil, Aug 21, 2015
    #164
  5. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    King's brakes also sell them.
     
    Murdo, Aug 23, 2015
    #165
  6. Lynxdragon

    Lynxdragon Well-Known Member

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    You can probably have that front steel subframe from me in a few weeks... waiting for my headlight so I can lighten the front end a little...
     
    Lynxdragon, Aug 23, 2015
    #166
  7. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Thanks but I have a perfectly good one to repaint :)
     
    Linkin, Aug 23, 2015
    #167
  8. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Getting ready to do the forks...

    [​IMG]
     
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    Linkin, Sep 7, 2015
    #168
  9. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Some action with the forks today... now understand why people charge a small fortune to do it. Old fork oil smells horrific, and looks just as bad. Grey sludge. Also doesn't help when it pisses out and gets all over the socket set :\

    The leaky fork seal on the yellow peril had a piece of cloth tied in knot underneath the dust cap to, I assume, attempt to mitigate the seal leaking. Spoiler: it didn't work.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Seperating the 2 fork tubes is an ordeal... what we did was drain the oil, undo the cap & remove the spacer + spring + washer, and then yank the 2 pieces apart. Not sure if this is the correct way but I don't know how you would get the upper bushing out.

    Getting the old seals out involves removing the dust cap, removing the retainer clip, and prying the old seal out. There's also a washer and an upper bushing that need to be removed. The upper bushing is a fitted into the lower fork.The lower bushing stays on the inner fork in a groove. Along with the bolt in the damping rod, they stop the 2 halves from separating.

    Trying to get them back together proved to be an ordeal... I made an oopsy with the left fork (lower bushing squeezed past upper bushing without the inner fork) but a quick call to the good doctor saved the day. The picture below shows how the 2 fork halves are re-attached.

    [​IMG]

    From left to right: New seal, washer, upper bushing, lower bushing.

    If you try to force the lower bushing past the upper bushing, the lower bushing pops out of it's groove on the inner fork.

    To get the upper bushing back in properly, we compressed it with 2 flathead screwdrivers on either side, then used a 3rd flathead and mallet to gently tap it into place.

    The PVC pipe is 40mm diameter and is used for pressing the fork seal into place. The diameter of the inner fork is 38mm so the pipe fit over it without an issue.

    Now, I have to get the upper & lower bushings out of the left fork and put it all back together...

    Also put 15 weight oil in compared to standard 10 weight. Hoping it reduces the front end dive on braking.
     
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    Linkin, Sep 9, 2015
    #169
  10. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Right fork assembled & done :thumb_ups:

    [​IMG]
     
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    Linkin, Sep 9, 2015
    #170
  11. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    well done Linkin, that oil looks horrible, the smell is terrible when for oil goes off
     
    kiffsta, Sep 10, 2015
    #171
  12. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Enjoyed your posting Linkin
    Couldn't help but smile when reading about the shocking smell from the fork oil....it's a shocker:(
    Parting the legs as you described is an ordeal....just have to yank them apart, no other way.
    My understanding of the function of the front is this....the lower leg compresses the oil within and the upper does the same via springs. The two work in tandem with each other to give you a stable platform whilst riding, however the spring after a prolong period looses some of it's rebound which in turn cause sag.
    This is where I get a little confused.....by adding a heavier weight oil are we not seeking the lower leg to take up the slack coming from older and worn springs??? Just my 2 cents worth.
    Some years back I changed the springs on my SV650, the difference was incredible, the ride was improved 100%, a pleasure to ride. Great post mate.:thumb_ups:
     
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    Phil, Sep 10, 2015
    #172
  13. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Yeah, the long term plan is to get some FZR400 springs and use those
     
    Linkin, Sep 10, 2015
    #173
  14. Revolver

    Revolver Big Member Premium Member

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    Let us know how you go with the heavier oil. I have a spare set of forks that are waiting to go in. Want to try heavier oil in them to stop the dive.
     
    Revolver, Sep 11, 2015
    #174
  15. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    • Like Like x 3
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2015
    maelstrom, Sep 11, 2015
    #175
  16. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Phil, Sep 11, 2015
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  17. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Changing fork seals on RWU forks.
    • Fork caps off
    • drain oil
    • remove front wheel and guard
    • Use a rattle gun to remove damper bolts
    • remove lower fork legs
    • remove old seals
    • clean parts
    • fit new seals
    • assemble
    The whole process can be done in less than an hour. Why some people try to replace a seal with the fork assembled is completely beyond me. Maybe because they want to spend hours trying to get the seals out and then keep the 25 year old sludge inside their forks. I think it is an urban myth that began with a bad YouTube video and then spread like a virus.
     
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    maelstrom, Sep 13, 2015
    #177
  18. Jo Verhelst

    Jo Verhelst Forty2 Contributing Member

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    i try to loosen the damperbolts before taking the caps off, most of the time the spring-tensions helps
     
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    Jo Verhelst, Sep 13, 2015
    #178
  19. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    I do it a little different.
    Wheel out, guard off.
    Undo damper bolts and slide off lower legs, tipping oil into tray.
    Remove fork caps, springs, old seals and clean all parts.
    Fit new seals and lower legs, tighten damper rod bolt.
    Fill with oil and compress forks to check oil level and adjust if necessary.
    Refit springs and fork caps.
    Refit guard and wheel.
    Ride and enjoy the pride in doing the job yourself.
     
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    Murdo, Sep 13, 2015
    #179
  20. Jo Verhelst

    Jo Verhelst Forty2 Contributing Member

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    Ride and enjoy the pride in doing the job yourself.

    and being sure the job is done ;)
     
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    Jo Verhelst, Sep 13, 2015
    #180
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