Linkin's FZR250 3LN6

So far so good, they asked for photos of the whole kit, shipping papers and box... I'd wager they're going to send me the right one.

 

One more

 

Warning: Novel Incoming

Regarding the fairings, the incorrect pieces are going to be replaced with the correct ones at no cost to me, so that's nice. I expect I'll be waiting another few weeks at least - that's fine, it gives me time to get the fuel tank overhauled & repainted. It'll look the goods with the new fairings.

Today I moved the bike from the fizzer factory back to my garage. I've started work and soon will only have 1 day off a week between work and study. Since the virgin fizzer suffered a water pump failure & after replacing all the seals and bearings in it, it STILL leaked, it has been punished.



I've removed all the bits I need from it to get the yellow peril running. It took me all day, but I got the 3LN6 mostly assembled and running on all 4. I love these carbs with the new needle design so far. I wager the new iridium plugs help a bit as well. After getting some fuel in it started no worries. Very little white smoke out the back until everything warmed up, then no smoke at all.

There was a lot of faffing about with the fuel hoses though... the outlet from the tap to the fuel pump & carbs spring a leak. You could actually pull it out with your hand. The spare was stuck solid and I think that's how it's supposed to be. To fix it without changing taps, I turned the tap off, pulled the outlet hose off & dried it out, and then used this stuff called Rapidfix - it's great. It's like a 2 part epoxy but one part is powder and the other is liquid. Once you mix them it starts hardening straight away.

Got some of that on there, tapped the outlet back onto the fuel tap as the adhesive was hardening already, left it for 5 minutes and it's worked - no more fuel leak out of the fuel tap!

But - there was another issue with the fueling system. The fuel pump was going but wasn't getting any fuel. I tried swapping the hoses on the pump but then I just got bubbles in the fuel tank - the hoses were correct the first time. The issue ended up being the brand new ryco fuel filter - couldn't get any fuel through it. Switching back to the bodgy car one (which incidentally worked fine and captured rust flakes from the tank) which is clear, turn ignition on and it fills up with fuel and the pump goes quiet, indicating it's getting fuel through it!

As I said, started up without an issue and running on all 4. Nearly finished getting it rideable. Just need to put the screen, mirrors & fairings on, and whack the new drive chain on. Then ready for a blueslip. I think the wheels look good with the blue fairings & tank. Still going with the original colours though.

 

I haven't had a close look at the 3LN1 fairings, but the tail sections and main sections appear to be identical. As far as I can tell, the only changes were to the tail light piece and the headlight/screen cowl. I know the ram air tubes are different. 3LN1 is round and 3LN3+ is oval on the front of the cowl. It's the same where they attach to the frame.

It makes sense as the 3LN1 was the major change in frame, engine, etc with the later models being essentially the same as far as fairings are concerned (apart from said changes)

 

Got the chain on and went for a test ride. Obviously needed a tune as the standard 3 turns was hanging at 3,000 RPM. Also there's a tapping noise in the engine while accelerating/on the throttle. I'll post a video below.

Anyway as for the tuning the idle circuit, I nipped up the carb boots and airbox boots to ensure that they were fully sealed. It made a minor difference, but still hanging at 3k. Adjusting each idle screw one by one was not working, nor was adjusting them all in increments with the engine off. Same crap, hanging at 3k, adjust the centre idle screw down and it dies, won't start. Started checking each exhaust pipe and the left 2 were warmer than the right 2.

So after getting a wee bit pissed off I started it up with throttle and just revved it up to 10 thou or so. It stumbled the first time and blew black smoke, then no smoke.

After that, it revs up and drops to idle perfectly. You can hear when the idle's been balanced properly. A nice steady note with little variation. If it's out, like it was before, it sounded... wobbly, or uneven.

Anyway, help me diagnose this noise. It happens in neutral and in gear while riding. It quiets down considerably when idling or when I come of the throttle and the revs are dropping.

 

Okay I think the noise may be something to do with the starter motor/starter clutch.

The noise in the video above only happens when accelerating past 4,000 RPM. As soon as I drop off the throttle it disappears.

The reason I think it might be the starter motor/idler gear is because of what happened when I started the bike today. Press starter, engine rotates. CLACK CLACK CLACK. Then nothing from the starter. Not turning the engine. Press it again twice more, the solenoid clicks but no cranking. Try it a few more times and it starts without a problem.

It's EXACTLY what happens in this video, after he put the bike in gear and rocked it back and forth. The loud clacking noise, at about 0:48 in the video.



Someone on another forum suggested checking the clutch bolts, as one may be not torqued properly and extends out hitting the casing when the revs increase. Anyone got experience with problems like that?

 

Hmmm... Reckon this could be the issue? Broken finger on the clutch basket. I checked under the starter motor cover and everything looked good there

 

Well that's a relief...

Anyway I changed over the coil and leads for cyl 1 and 4, as #4 lead was dodgy where it connects to the spark plug cap... could not get the lead to bite into the cap so it was just sitting there.

No difference unfortunately.

Did we check the CCT on this engine?

 

Looks like I have another thing to check after work tomorrow, then.

 

Because I can, and I'm a glutton for punishment