Got the wheels back from bike shop with a new rear tyre and new enough front tyre. New tyre valve stems as well. Also pictured is the coolant overflow tank, which is split, luckily another parts bike find will sort that out. Removed rear disc... well stuffed. New radiator cap New rear sprocket Waiting on a new rear disc to arrive before fitting the rear wheel
I've placed the order for the fairings. None of the ebay mobs ever got back to me, so I went with Fairing Solutions Australia, whom I emailed today and got a response, so that's good. To give you all an impression of the finished product: Pumped!!!
Watch out for scammers. There was some evil bastard ripping people off in Aus. It was posted on the forum before. This bike is going to be great and with carb needles that should last too.
@maelstrom Got the second package today, and have put it to good use. Getting the plastic housing for the emulsion tube out can be difficult without damaging it, luckily there were no casualties today. We did have to grind off the head on one of the float bowl screws... it was totally welded on, wouldn't budge. Anyway, the plastic housing. I tap the emulsion tube out with a screwdriver handle. You have to take off the jet housing first. Then you have to lever the plastic bit out through the opening where the airbox sits with a large flat blade screwdriver. Just put pressure on and it will pop out. Didn't break one of them with this method. All that lovely green crap that was in the carbs had since dried up. Bit of a threebond soak got rid of it. In the middle of changing all the o-rings and gaskets Carbs are done, unless I run into an issue while running them. Airbox boots arrived so that's sorted, and also got 4 pairs of footpeg rubbers. Pics of those a bit later.
Those carbs looked in terrible condition. Glad your getting them sorted.....she'll be running soon I assume?
It ran first go before I cleaned the carbs. Just got some fuel in there and a battery, pressed the starter for half a second and it went. Sounded a bit rattly, so the cam chain and valve clearances will need attention. However, I am impeded in this because the bolt holding the radiator on (left side of bike) has been cross threaded and spins in place. Will have to drill it out. Before it goes for a bluey, I need to replace the brake fluid & the pads, replace the fork seals & oil with 15 weight stuff, do the valve clearances & replace rocker cover gasket, and change the cam chain. The weather appears to be picking up temperature (touch wood), but I'm also at TAFE 3 days a week now. Hoping to have the bike registered in time for VJMC show/ride. Which reminds me, I need to join the VJMC!
Carbs + LiteTek kit + 3 Bond + clean, clean, clean, clean, clean, clean, clean, clean, clean, clean, clean + blow clean.
Some more progress today. Fuel pump arrived this week so got that installed, yet to test it. Drilled out the pesky bolt stopping me from removing the radiator and got to work on the engine. I checked the valve clearances, and for once, they're all within spec. This fits with the story the previous owner gave me (bike sat after it was imported, and was rebuilt in 2010). Gave the rocker cover a soak in threebond and replaced the rocker cover gasket. As usual, the old ones turn to complete ratshit, but people reuse them & cover them in silicon gasket grap. The old plugs. Serviceable, but the wrong heat range. Standard ones are NGK CR8E. The CR7E's were all replaced with CR8EIX - the iridium ones - just to see how the bike will go once back together. If worthwhile I'll change the ones in the blue bike as well. CR7E is one heat range too low, and will make bad things happen Footpeg bling! Actually, in typical Japanese fashion, the originals are completely over-engineered. How do you over-engineer a footpeg rubber bit? By putting a steel plate and steel washers into them... I replaced the rear brake pads, the old ones had completely had it & ruined the rear disc (replaced) And snapped off the last remaining bleed nipple on the rear caliper... So, how do you bleed your rear brakes when both bleed nipples are snapped off? Well, I had to remove the rear caliper, push the pistons in, getting brake fluid everywhere, put the new pads in & remount the caliper. Then I drained the old brake fluid out (goodness knows if it was ever replaced before today) and filled the reservoir with new stuff. Now comes the fun part! I Had to push the rear brake lever down, slightly undo the brake line to the caliper, forcing the air and fluid out, nip it up & then release the brake lever, which sucks more fluid into the system from the reservoir. Did this a few times and topped up the reservoir. Repeat until only fluid comes out of the line when you undo it, and the lever actually engages the rear brake. I don't even want to think about the front brakes at the moment. It was hard enough just replacing the pads on the other bike. Since my helper got the sprocket hub bearing and seal in, I refitted the new rear sprocket and mounted the rear wheel, greased the axle and spacers. While the brake caliper was off, you could spin the wheel by hand and it would keep spinning for a minute or two at least. I love new bearings!
Just a tip, but you may have already done this, always tap bleed nipples with a small hammer whilst attempting to loosen them.
Agreed......have come to the conclusion that new bleed nipples are the go. $3.00 is small change for a very prompt fix....if you get my flow.