Well I haven't gone too far yet... only a short 30 minute ride but no sign of any issues at all thus far. No boggyness, no trouble at low end but may be a tad lean at the top end. Have to do a bit more testing on that though because it was so faint I could have been imagining it.... That said, when i had her apart i checked all the spark plugs and they were all sweet as so even if she is lean it's not significant enough to show it...
Lean at top end points to the circlip position on the needle. Do you still have them 2nd from the top? That will be the cause of running lean. If you go fiddling with the needles again you should be able to feel any wear on them... just run your fingers along them. Any bumps or grooves and they're cactus, need to be replaced. They wear the most just under the position for the circlips (where they are at idle). The tubes themselves also wear, so both must be replaced We've been through this rigmarole already but I'll link the keyster kits again... would be good to get the needles and tubes on their own but no progress has been made on that front. I must follow up on that. 2x Keyster K-1203YKS for carbs 1 & 4 2x Keyster K-1203YKU for carbs 2 & 3 Also, which fuel do you run? These things only run properly on 91. 95 & 98 has been a disaster any time we've tried it (with standard needle clip & idle screw settings). I love carbs
It's back at stock (middle position) and I think it's 2.75 turns out (haven't touched it since last adjustment) so if anything it should be running a tad rich. Yeh I know we've been over it several times... think of my logic like a tyre with 60% tread. You could replace it, but do you need to? Bit more life in those needles yet I think. The wear seems even to me, although discoloration exists - without any major performance hassles I'm inclined to run with them a bit longer. Personal choice, ok? For fuel this time around I filled up with 91 but normally I'd be putting 98 premium in it. To be honest I haven't noticed any particular difference between them... Well with all the fiddling I think I'm finally in a good spot with these carbies and I'm not going to touch them again unless I absolutely have to! I do have a question for you guys though, does your engine cover (LHS, the one with the YAMAHA logo and yes I'm too lazy to look it up right now) get hot to the touch after a ride...?
The stator? Yes it gets hot on all the fizzers I've ridden. The frame near it got really hot when my head gasket was blown and went away when that got fixed
Hmm. May have to rethink my painting strategy, didn't expect to need high temp paint on that area. May get some paint peeling off now lol
Still need to do the rear rim but haven't had the time. The front brakes are being a bit weird though, they seem really "grindy" and dust seems to be pouring out of them. The pads weren't bad neither is the disk that old so I'm thinking it may be time to change the pads as they might just be deteriorating due to age perhaps? Normal riding is OK but when you brake hard you can feel them grinding. When I had the front wheel off I didn't do anything to them other than spray the outside with degreaser and give them a bit of a clean.
Thought I should give an update... All running very well. I think since I did the valve clearances I can back off the pilots a little because it's just a tad on the rich side, so will be pulling back 1/4 turn at some stage over the holidays. I may even have some time to mess with some electric-based tuning to see if I get anywhere interesting, been meaning to do that for a little while. Clutch does need attention though, now I've got the kit will be looking at putting it in at the next oil change - it's slowly getting more noticeable and I reckon new plates will give her plenty of pickup. Had a bit of fun with a honda 300 on the way home from work today, the other guy was playing along. Don't think he quite had the edge I did though, so even with my fat bum and a clutch slowly dying the fizzer goes alright for an overpowered bicycle!! What is on my mind now is whether or not I dip into a more cosmetic type of restore. Really clean her up and look at new fairings/new paint job. Don't want to throw big $ at her though, maybe chinese fairings will be OK. Even if I upgrade to another bike club rego next year means I could keep this old girl as a bit of a show pony (haven't seen another in this colour scheme on the road to date so I figure they must be a little hard to find). So it's a bit of mind vs wallet at the moment! either way, clutch first!
Fizzer surgery. Everyone's favourite kind of surgery. Maybe... Kind of... OK perhaps not. But necessary none the less... This I thought was a bit weird. Wish I could clean it out as the globes still work fine. Anyone know where to get replacement globes, I've scowered the interwebs and visited a few shops they seem like they are a H4 but all the pins on the ones I am seeing are fatter so they won't fit the plug. There's a very old thread here about globes but not much info, I've left a message with powerbulbs to get their thoughts.
On the band of the globe should be some writing, take a photo of that and I can help you identify it Sent from my HTC_0PJA10 using Tapatalk
It's Koito Japan 12V55/40W. The only other marking is on one of the pins that says "01J". It's a dual high/low beam halogen (ie two filaments).
Wellllllllll New cam chain is in. Making different noises but definitely quieter. Bike wouldn't idle first up though, had to wind the idle right up. Hard to start and hesitant through the rev range again... methinks a carby tune is in order and is probably running a bit lean. Find that a bit strange as to why a new cam chain would make it run leaner... logic escapes me today - brain is dead. Oh and @Phil I found my little fuel tap piece. Must have fallen through the bike and sat underneath as it fell out when I wheeled the bike out and went for a ride. not in the fridge after all! (and thank the good Lord not in the engine!)
Because the valve timing has been corrected. It matters, a lot. Can't recall your carby settings but try middle position on the needle clips and 3 and half turns out of the pilots.
Yeh it's middle clip, 3 turns out last time I set it. I'm going to go for a ride with the choke on to see if I get some improved responsiveness... that should at least tell me whether the problem is too rich or too lean (I reckon it's still to lean as you are implying though).
Easy way to check at idle is to blip the throttle, if the revs hang on the way down, then it's lean or an air leak. If it drops down below idle after you release the throttle, or stalls, it's rich.
Here are your headlamp bulb's, that headlight is from an FZR400 3TJ http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=55/40 headlight bulb&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2&_trksid=p2045573.m1684 How stretched was your old timing chain ? As a timing chain wear's in the chain stretch's and it advance's the timing, so i'm guessing if you've fitted a new chain the timing is retarded now compared to what it was when you tuned the carby's, that would cause the idle mixture requirement's Is it running a bit hotter ?
Thanks man. I've actually been looking into a conversion kit... may give it a go at some stage because $40 a bulb is a bit of a joke! Yeh I made her richer but it hasn't seemed to change anything. Hesitant through the middle rev range but OK down low and up the very top. Suppose that means carbies have to come off again, bit annoying but I do own a fizzer so it serves me right. Might check the plug connections too though just in case.
Apparently you can easily dremel out the back of the light housing to fit a standard H4 bulb, only problem though, is the length of the H4 bulb, it will sit into your light too far and this give's the high beam a big black spot in the middle of the light when it's lighting up the ground The other thing you could try is to remove the locating ring and tab's off you old bulb and somehow fit it to a H4 bulb (with the outer ring with tab's removed) and give it the same offset as the blown globe You need to scrape the paint off the end of the bulb too Hesitant through mid range ? is it making a booowaaah sort of noise ? if so needle is too lean (need to lower the needle clip) If it's spluttering through mid range it's too rich on the needle (need to raise the needle clip)
Basically when you are really hammering the throttle it is sorta jerky through spots is the mid range like it's losing a bit of power. You can still get to the top end but it's not smooth.