Ticking noise could be a noisy shim/cam ticking. Second one. Noisy thrust bearing. My fizzer does it, Grasshopper's fizzer does it. They're just old and could probably do with replacing.
Gee that timing thing was a bit tricky to find... on the flywheel itself. Good instructions here http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr250-zeal-fzx250-valve-clearances-howto.1697/ Will see what I can find today.
I assume it's some sort of tolerance? That TDC is somewhere in between the vertical lines....? Lobe positions facing outwards for #1 tdc obviously...
Another thought.. how much force do you guys use when checking with the gauges? I'd imagine you're not trying to "force" anything through but pushing through gently until you feel a bit of a bite on the gauge?
That mark is not TDC. The one below is TDC. Confirmed by having the head off and lining up this mark. Piston #1 will be at TDC Our fizzers have that mark you pictured as well, though I'm not sure what its purpose is.
Well.... did I have fun. All of the intake valves were out of spec, with one exhaust valve out of spec. That explains some of what I was hearing I suppose. Lot of shims to be changed.... The way I did this was to pick one size up on the minimum clearance and once size lower than the maximum clearance and work within those boundaries. It doesn't really matter to me specifically what the clearance is, as long as it's in between those bounds. I didn't pick the max/min because I don't want to work with the borderline. You'll see on the first table below that all of the intake valve clearances are too tight, with the second exhaust valve to cylinder 3 also too tight. The second table is figuring out (for the valves out of spec only) what the clearance approximately is so I can change out to an appropriate shim. I guess that's next weekends job now heh. The "Y" and "N" are responses to "does that size gauge fit in that valves clearance".
You should check the clearances on the high end and the low end of the spec. The thickest feeler gauge that fits is then used as the actual clearance measured for that valve. I ended up just changing the existing shims for ones that were 0.05mm thinner, and using as many shims that I removed from the head as possible.
Yes but the gauges I have are 0.10, 0.13, 0.20, 0.23 - so I didn't have 0.11 or 0.21. I did have 0.30 but I used 0.28 instead as I was hoping I wouldn't have to work in the 0.29-0.30 boundary, if I did I'd look at changing that too as it's really borderline. So I ended up Using 0.13 and 0.23 to measure. If these didn't work I'd go back down a bit like I did with exhaust valve on #3 which is way out too.
Had the same issue with feeler gauges. You can stick 2 different ones for a different size. I had 0.10 and 0.20, so you use that and the next ones up to determine what range of clearance you have, an change the shim accordingly.
Time for an update... Almost had her ready to put back together when this little bugger (one of the cam holder guides) popped straight down the cam chain hole.... If anything good news is (1) I noticed it was missing and (2) I found it before something more serious happened... So now have to wait until next weekend while I make up a new gasket, find a new oil filter and piece her back together...
Well.... Almost fully back together... but then I came undone by the transfer pipe O-ring from the top of the water pump... she didn't like being disturbed and a steady drizzle had me dancing around the room! Lucky the yamaha shop had a couple in stock... guess the big start-up will have to wait another day...! Front rim came up nicely though, nice new paint job should stand out a bit. Photos to come
They say patience is a virtue.....when it comes to motorcycles it's a pain in "arse" just about there mate!!
Windows 10 fragged my computer so photos will be a bit slower than I would like... *sigh* had to go back to the dark ages (xp) to get it running again. Never before in my life have I had so much trouble with an OS.
Really close now. Front rim is complete, I'm happy with the way it came out. Just have to do the back one to match. When I went to put the carbies back on the bloody choke cable holder thing was a real nuisance. I decided to do a quick modification to hold the thing in place and it worked surprisingly well. Had a few of those car stereo clip things lying around so I grabbed one and pushed it over the metal connected to the carby. Slapped the holding piece on top, put a spare screw in nice and tight, worked a treat. So the start up, smoothest she's ever sounded. I brought the idle down after I took the video and she hums pretty nicely now. Still hanging from the engine crane due to the fact I haven't put the front wheel back on yet. Once I do the rear rim the fairings and wheels are back on and off we go again... hankering for some twisties now.
