Stu's Fizzer

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Joker, Jan 12, 2015.

  1. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Motor sounds good.
     
  2. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Yeh I'm pretty pleased with it, it's much less jumpy than it was and it sounds like it's going to pack a bit more punch (I need all the punch I can get on this little thing haha). Responsiveness on the throttle seems to have improved so will be an interesting road test. Problem is now I'm going to be travelling for work so the grand finale will have to wait a few more weeks :(
     
  3. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Front wheel looks good ... but your wheel bearings are 25yrs old
     
  4. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Yeh, but are you saying you think that's a problem Grey?

    I see wear more important than age when it comes to bearings - they're still greased up and looking pretty good considering. Almost bet this bike hasn't been round the clock yet - I'm finding more and more things to suggest it's just been sitting most of it's life.
     
  5. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    From what I have read about bearings... if they seal properly, aren't making noise, and aren't a gritty feel when you turn them with your fingers... no reason to replace them.
     
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  6. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    So, here's a cold start on her now:



    You can hear my mysterious "chipmunks" right after I press the button for a few secs before the idle increases (kind of a rattle sound). It's not valve clearances (it was there before I did those but it is a bit less apparent now) and I had the sump off and checked the bottom end and all seemed good (plus not a knocking noise). I can't seem to pinpoint where it is coming from, but it does go away when the engine is warm. The only conclusion I can draw is that it's a bit of piston slap... if I start from warm it's not there.

    At idle now when warm:



    And the valve cover jazzed up a bit...

    IMG_0463.JPG
     
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  7. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    It's normal... when the bike is off all the now warm oil drains into sump. When you cold start it takes time for the oil feed to get oil into the top end of the engine.
     
  8. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Ah... ok so it must be a slight design flaw. That's good to know... I was a little worried about that.
     
  9. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Doubt it's a design flaw, every vehicle does it. Lack of maintenance plus age means engine top ends get noisy, especially if clagged up with sludge.

    Also when changing shims etc everything needs to be lubricated, either with engine oil, moly grease, or white lithium grease.
     
  10. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    What's your oil level, when my 4b gets low the top had is heaps louder on a cold start. A couple of Mils can make a difference.
     
  11. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    It's at the top end of the required level mate, I made sure of that. Before I put the valve cover back on I also lubed everything with engine oil so it didn't start dry. It's been making that noise since I got it, bit less now but it's such a strange noise I wasn't sure what it was. Could be something to do with the oil pump starting up I suppose...

    It's not right but it doesn't seem to be doing any harm...
     
  12. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I fill my oil to the point that it's on the upper level of the sight glass when idling. You'll find as the revs increase the oil level drops. I figure it's better to have it slightly over full than slightly under full.
     
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  13. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    to the best of my knowledge oil should be checked cold and not running. with the bike down and level (some sort of balancing is required. as you dont get a true reading with it leaning or on a paddock stand or warm. Pretty certain you'd have way too much oil in there @Linkin
     
  14. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Sight glasses are horseshit

    The only way to have the correct oil level is to measure it in.
     
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  15. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    yeah but if you're like me you'll get distracted and loose count at 2....
     
  16. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    But Tyson ... you of all people should know your CCs !

    :lolsign:
     
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  17. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I measured the oil in and put in a little bit extra so it was at the top of the sight glass. With the right amount of oil it was about 2/3 up the sight glass between the lines so it wasn't much extra to put it near the top end. I also check the sight when the bike is sitting straight and level and not leaning on the stand. Then start it up and check again when warm, the level goes down a bit.

    I've always checked oil levels on vehicles with warm engines, because it's normally a measure of the "oil reserve" not the total amount of oil in the engine. Hence why you can drain an engine at the sump plug and the oil filter will still be full of oil - and also why the numbers are different for the required amount of oil depending on what kind of servicing work you have done (oil vs oil & filter vs overhaul).

    With that said, I can't see there being a massive amount of difference if the engine is cold - by memory the manual only brings it up a couple of hundred ml from an oil change to an overhaul...
     
  18. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    We'll it appears we can rule out not enough oil. My advice ride it till it blows up then get a better bike haha
     
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  19. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Well I haven't killed it yet, so if she's survived all that...
     
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  20. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Well, a 30 minute burn today and all is well. Much smoother than she was and I thought she was smooth before! Very easy to ride, good to take her out for a squirt again. Still think that clutch needs attention though... will get to that eventually.

    Only the rear rim to paint (I held off because I was so desperate to take her out lol).
     

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