Pinned So what have you done to your bike today?

I think you may have a chance if there's a number stamped somewhere

Otherwise if you don't have success with that search and have another key to another barrel, you can re-arrange the wafers moving them to suit the key you do have - with luck they've used the same depths ordered differently - they're not really precision mechanisms.

The slot(s) through the wafers themselves can also be filed to suit a different key if necessary if rearranging them gets you close

If you remove one and take a look you'll understand more clearly, it's just an exercise in patience.

 

Very interested to know which way you go with this, if you break it down, there's the pump, the plastic plumbing holding the pump to the regulator/high pressure filter.

I'm in a similar situation, intending to get one of the ebay EFI pumps then need to acquire a suitable pressure regulator and plumb them together - I would be at all surprised if that particular pressure regulator is available separately for another bike or car, knowing what to get is the knack

 

All fixed and assembled today, boss searched eBay and found new aftermarket regulator/filter housings, they are available from Poland. It arrived in a couple of days too. Works as expected except for one minor problem, the supplied pressure regulator didn't quite fit, but I just swapped it for the one that comes with the quantum fuel pump kit. They can be bought separately.

I stuck the pump base in the ultrasonic to blast all the rust off it and wire wheeled the small brackets etc.

 

That sure beats OEM prices for the whole assembly - the markup on that lot must be absolutely huge!
Obviously you use the Quantum fule pump kits without problems, correct?

 

Mostly no problems with the Quantum kits. Sometimes they will have a non operative check valve so when you disconnect the line from the tank they can dribble fuel out of the fitting non stop. A bit of fuel hose and a clamp/zip tie over a folded over fuel line sorts that out though.

 

I'll see if I can pick the lock and use a different cap on the tank but if not I'll take the ignition apart and get filing at them

Sent from my 22101316G using Tapatalk

 

If you can pick the lock on the tank cap, that's an easier lock to rearrange as from memory it's only go 4 wafers versus 6 for the ignition switch.
Not difficult to pick at all.

 

got the MC19 up on the lift. I'll know tomorrow if the aliexpress chain slider actually fits.

 

The weather is starting to get a little better around here so I figured I'd get the MC19 all prepped and ready to ride. No dice. Bike starts and runs on choke but dies without it. That's when I remember that I filled it with E10 and forgot to drain the float bowls when I put it away. Time for a carb service, goody.



The missus is at sea for a little while, so I get to work in the kitchen.



Finally got to test out my homemade carb parts organizer. For once one of my "good ideas" actually was.



Jets weren't horrible, but the slow jets were solid. I hate ethanol in gasoline with a deep and abiding passion.



A quick run through the ultrasonic and the judicious application of some carb cleaner and it should be good to go.

 

Love the carby parts organiser, you should patent it. I want one.

 

Here is my Mikuni TM box with balsa wood inserts.

 

The design was done at makercase.com and I used the laser cutter at my job to cut it out of 1/8" (3mm) MDF. Pretty straightforward stuff. I was just amazed that it actually worked as intended.

@mboddy: Thanks for sharing. If you're gonna do it, might as well do it right.

 

I'm mocking up a shroud to direct air to an intercooler that will be fitted directly over the engine and intake plenum chamber. After a bit of brain strain I decided it was better to go air to air than air to water for the intercooler but also had to minimise air volume which meant the intercooler being on top of the engine with air ducted to it. The mockup is more or less done and I've even made a little tapered cone to go from the turbo straight up to the bottom of one side of the intercooler core. More brain strain still required to figure out the method to use to connect it all. Hopefully my TIG welding will improve so it's not too ugly.

 

short story.....
got hit by a car on the ZX12R... her fault, bikes a write off.. im ok, was fully insured, got money, bought another K1300S.. needs work on suspension... but first oil and final drive fluid.... old final drive fluid was disgraceful.... not bits in it... oil was at least 15,000km old.... also no bits init.....

oh yeah.... FZR250R in background has head off... Gyro has done the valves, should be back together sooooon!!!





old fluid..... yukkkk

 

Seen my fair share of BMW's during my time at Procycles. I've heard some people swear on adding molybdenum disulphide additive to the final drive. It apparently vastly reduces the amount of wear that occurs, observed by far far less magnetic bits on the drain plug (if that model has the magnet).

Have you done an oil change on it yet? Wait til you see how unconventional it is

Also I never ever want to do another clutch replacement on a modern BMW K1200/1300, they are not fun. That, and once I had a clutch pack come from BMW that was assembled backwards. Simply wouldn't fit, until I pulled out the stack and flipped over every friction plate.

 

yeah, i had a K1300R that i put 75,000km on, did all the servicing, and a K1300S did 30,000 on that, done heaps of oil changes, and yeah.... its a bit different.
I was with a riding group that included 10-15 K1300r and s, we concluded that the recommended Final drive oil change of 20,000km was too long, we all did ours every 10,000 and no probs.

gota do front ball joints and will get shock rebuilt..... that will be fun....

 

gotta love the flying brick