Pinned So what have you done to your bike today?

Started messing with cases/cranks again. I swear the 96 cases have white/brown/white/white/white crank bearings, but white isn't an option. case/crank codes say it should be green/brown/green/green/green. 93ish cases green shells are obviously green
So far it's looking like 93 crank with 96 cases will get me available shells but the "white" has left me confused and I'm convinced I'm overthinking this. I don't expect the cases to wear since the bearings shouldn't spin. I expect the bearings to wear every so slightly since they should have an oil cusion. I assume the crank is harder than the bearings, but of course if debris is introduced all bets are off on the crank not wearing. There is wear on both sets of bearings so I intend to go new and not try to recycle what I have. pastigage on hand. Wishing I had the skills and tools to measure these the hard way. 3 day weekend here, so I can't even consider dropping these off at a machine shop to be measured until Tuesday.

 

Plastigauge then at the shop next week to check the shells accurately again together with the crankshaft it may need a grind to get rid of any ovaling and to suit new bearing sizes availble. Good luck with the bearings maybe check conrod bearing as well as mains.

 

Seems like I continue to be plagued with anoying little problems, I fitted new needle and seats to all carbies when I had them striped down the old seats had alloy washes new ones had fibre ones. I set all floats with my float gauge 7mm then tested with vaccuum pump to look for leakage. Everything was good so set them up ran the engine for a while, synced the carbs did the idle jets all good so took it for a ride. It went well for about 4km then stopped. Thought the fuel level may have been a little low as I only threw in about 4 lt, opened the tank gave it a shake around still fuel so shut the lid and it started no worries, rode home and had a close look at the breather it was blocked so a bit of wire thru the hole and that problem resolved.
Next problem, carbys were flooding, I mentioned that the carby seats had fibre washes... "trap for young players, soak the the them for a while in fuel before you use them they soften and when I pulled the carbs off two were loose enough to let fuel get between the seat and the carb". Put the old alloy ones back in and all good.
Not finished yet engine was running a bit ratty after all this buggerising around, I noticed the fuel pump was runnng a little to often. Pulled it out removed the end and found the internal earth strap was no longer soldered to the point body, resoldered but still rattling a great deal more than it should but delivering the correct volume. Tried it under pressure and it couldnt pick up and push the petrol if there was any head pressure. Ebayed a new one and now everything is sweet, everyone said take it for a spin and blow out the cobwebs.. I dont have a bike trailer and I live on a one way street with a steep hill going down so failure means a long push home which I dont fancy. Moral of the story get everything working properly on a bike that been sitting for a few years before you plan a long ride.

 

Just finished fitting an eebay mini voltmeter to the VTR250.
While I was doing that I cleaned the dials and the inside of the dials perspex.

 

A thought to all of us with fuel pumps: When you set your fuel level on your Mikuni BDSTs to whatever your particular engine likes (Above the level line, below etc...), especially if you do it with the carbs removed from the bike, do it with the fuel tank and fuel pump on (I have a bench top power supply, but a battery could also work)! I originally performed this on my workbench with the carbs level and a gravity feed can of gas, about 1 US quart and had them all level but the engine still ran rich in the mid range. So, I did it on my workbench again this last weekend with the fuel pump powered on showing about 1PSI of pressure, and lo and behold, two of my fuel levels were 2mm and 1mm higher than the previous gravity setting! Fuel tank had only a gallon in it and was right next to my carbs in my vice attached to that 1"x6" with manifold rubbers mimicking the "As installed" angle-I forgot who's idea that was here but what a great idea!
I had this issue with my old XJ650LJ Turbo as well. BTW, my FZR has new needles and jets, floats, needles and seat also. New gaskets too.

 

Taken it for a ride. Took some time off and did a 160Km circuit, taking a stop at Nana Glen for a coffee. ☕️ Sweet az.

 

It's a good feeling when a plan is still going to plan,,,,

 

More framin' thoughts, involving a stiff swing arm pivot , the right "look" & functionality needed

 

I have chosen it over the bigger one in the garage to do a weekend trip to Forster from Coffs. Ran beautifully in the pouring rain . Did a detour to Wauchope for a quick lunch stop. 38 tooth rear Sprocket gives 5000rpm at a true 90kmh. Sat at 95-100kmh quite easily. Sunshine in Forster so good fun.

 

Ridden it.

 

replaced the rear brake pads and put a braided line on the ZX12R this morning, old brake fluid was pretty bad.

 

So the front brakes on my recently acquired 2005 ZX12R are well know for being crap, turns out they are the same crap calipers that were on my 2007 ZX10R. I got a set of second hand CBR1000RR 2011 Tokico monoblock calipers for $170 delivered which i was pretty sure would fit. They did fit!!..... with 5mm spacers... (thanks Gyro for milling them up). Got some SBS RST brake pads. The bike already has braided lines.
Piston were grubby, so gave them a good clean before pushing them back in. Anyway will give it a maiden run tommorow to work, but they feel good just pushing the bike around.