They look pretty flash @Frankster ! Whats a trip to Agquip if you dont buy tools and socks .... I skipped socks this year but these drifts/punches look like they will be handy for knocking out bearings,races and wateva ...... and coupled with my new big orange hammer , good for bashing old bikes into submission
Thanks Chief. Unfortunately, they look good from afar, but they are far from good! I am happy that I got an entire bike (85%) working. Spending time on these bikes reminds me of how frustrating they are to work on. The carbs/boots/airbox setup is particually annoying. They are becoming rare and a running one is hard to find. The second bike is an early model (1983) and probably the one I want to get running the most. The first bike is the VT250F II model, which I threw a few Matt Black plastics onto. But, I have a full fairing somewhere which is scratched, cracked and faded, so more work, but I will leave the original colours on it and maybe give it a few coats of clear. I just need to find a screen for it. Luckily, I bought a few sets of carbs over the years so I have plenty of spare parts to make up a working set or two. One serious issue, other than the rubbish fuel connector tune, is the diaphragm rubbers are thin and can wear or rip over time, so I am trialling an aftermarket diaphragm rubber to see if that 'works'. The after market rubber is on the left (in case you're wondering). Because it's just a generic diaphragm it does not have a special piece for the air bleed jet orifice, so I just cut out (roughly) a piece to allow the jet to work without being impeded. I haven't tested the aftermarket diaphragms yet, but I'm hopeful they will be a viable option. The carbs are odd on these bikes. The manual states there should be two different main jets (#102 & #100) used, but I've NEVER opened up a set of carbs and found this; they are always both #100. Also, there are meant to be two different needles used, but the ones quoted in the manual (99D & 99J) are NEVER the ones used in any carb I've pulled apart. 99J is used, but a 99L is always the second needle? If anyone has a 99D needle, then please let me know. Which bike will you be racing at Gunnedah when the track opens for TDRA events in a few months?
dove into the carbs for an SRX600 I just got my hands on. the bike has been sitting in a pretty good situation but the carbs were disgusting on the inside. definitely an interesting setup and super satisfying to chuck everything in the ultrasonic and have it come out sparkling. Still waiting on some rubber bits but I should be able to try to start the bike on Friday.
@Frankster There is a guy in the US that makes diaphragms for odd and old bikes. He might be able to help you out.
Bit of a random one! Had a call from the Townsville police, someone has copied my ZXR number plates up there on a stolen motorcycle... No idea how they would get them? My ZXR is safely locked up in my garage in Brisbane
Might not suit your bike but I have a harness and some other bits and pieces from a VTR 250 you can have for the cost of postage if you like @Frankster Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Thanks Blair. This is the company I use, so please let me know if there is someone else I can try. http://jbmindustries.com/ Cheers
Thanks for the offer Andy. I have a few looms and other bits I've collected over the years, so I should be okay. Cheers Frank
@Frankster. The JBM ones I used in my ST1100 with good results. The VT carbs I restored for you a while ago had good rubbers in them.
Well, not so much as 'what I have done to my bike today', but more 'how'... I've been busy rebuilding carbs lately and I am always threatening to make a jig for me to test carbs before going to the hassle of mounting them. I had some old (hard) carb boots lying around, so rather than throwing them away I put them to use. The carbs on a ZXR250 are mounted on a 22 degree angle to the horizon. So, I have made up a mounting plate that allows me to test install the carbs and then run fuel through them to check for any leaks. I can also check each carb bowl needle and seat are working properly as well as check the fuel height by connecting some clear hose to the bowl drain posts. It’s also super easy to drain the carbs properly and thoroughly. This set of carbs had a tiny leak between carbs 3 and 4 so the connecting fuel tube O-rings are in need of changing.
Went parts hunting again. Could have swore 4/5 big end bearing sizes for the mc22 were available, but now it looks like 4/5 are NLA Here's hoping I can reuse old shells from the motor with the broken top case half and either of the cranks and get them to fit properly. big end bearings from the original motor have crappy wear marks so I'm hesitant to use them.
FML misread all the things. look like only 1 of the rod bearing sizes are available, 0 of the crank bearings. I thought xcite had sets available, but I'll be damned if I can find them now.
and to keep the derp rolling, I was looking at MC17 schematic. At least some of the mc22 big end bearings are available (3 of 5), but looks like I'm SoL on conrod bearings. Lost my notebook where I was tracking all of the specs, so get to go measure all the things again
Awesome idea! I propped up my old Mikuni BDST's on my toolbox draw, spent several minutes using a level to get thme in the proper angle...what a pain in the arse! I got a task to accomplish this weekend!
Spent hours working on a radial master cylinder transplant from a Zero, J.Juan 18mm -w- remote reservoir. One of the POs tried to adjust the lever position without backing out the set screw which mangled a couple of threads near the end about 2/3 around. Fortunately was able to clean up the threads with 6x1mm tap/die. Not sure how this would have worked on any bike, engagement of the piston would crush 2 fingers if you used a 2 finger grip on the lever. Full pump would pin the lever against the throttle. Fortunately my buddy that hooked me up gave me another lever. Aftermarket lever couldn't touch the brake switch but left plenty of room to fully compress the piston and not touch the fingers on the throttle. Probably fouled up a couple of files with the soft aluminum, but I was able to file it down in the right places for the lever to contact the switch. Adjusted all the way out from the manufacturers adjuster and all the way in with the levers adjuster I would have to reach hard to touch the lever. Took several adjustments (annoying a.f. to do) to get the placement as far in as possible, yet keeping the lever in contact with the switch when not pulled in. Was testing distance on my rathawk that has the throttle tube removed, so wasn't able to get a true feel, but I'll probably be throwing the torch and a pipe at it to get the lever a little closer to the bar. Will mount it up on the zx4 and at least test in the garage before I go crazy with the heat
Annoying oil drip from pulsar cover on the mc19 (had lots of grey silicone extruded into the case and bits of old gasket and gasket cement all over the place. Hope its ok now after a few hours with a razor blade, baby stainless steel brush and lots of thinners. Resealed with a new gasket with a thin layer of Threebond and with few dabs around the wire feed through and lower locating dowel. Note the cheap allied gasket is much thiner so will need the threebond to seal. Hopefully all fixed now and I thought only British bikes had oil leaks!