Project Project SRX250

I wouldn't get your engine blasted unless you have actually seen the inside of engines that were done by the same person. I am going to be doing a home wet blast on my Honda engine but I have sealed it and I will blast it. It is all on me. Once I remove all of the engine covers I will know if it worked.

 

I am with @maelstrom on Blasting the engine... My barrel and head were done when they were being bored etc but the cases were just paint stripped as were the clutch and generator cover..its way too risky to have the complete engine blasted and really no need.
Patience, paint stripper and wire brushes are far better.

 

That screw may need some help from an impact driver and a hammer ?
Not sure on the welch plug

 

Definitely get the JIS bits... you are going to need them to get the Stator cover off so you can fix the stator and pickup leads that are chopped off...
Above the exhaust is just a metal plug... I am not really sure what it is there for to be honest.
If you are going to take the barrel and head off you may as well change the cam chain while you are there... and the Oil pump gears... may as well throw in a new set of rings as well.. unless the barrel is worn then it is a re-bore and a new piston and rings... hmm what are the bearings like as well.. .
The big question is how far down the rabbit hole do you go??????
Sure as sh!t if you dont do something while you are in there... it will come back to haunt you at some stage...

 

See if this works?

JIS Screwdriver Bits +2 X 75mm VESSEL Impact Driver Double Ended Made in Japan


https://www.ebay.com.au/i/362869965...aogDsOt10bj7toqU67rAXdZK1V5ihhyxoC5nIQAvD_BwE

These will go into a 3/8 Ryobi light impact driver.

Or these should work with a normal style Impact driver

https://rhinotools.com.au/product/jis-impact-screwdriver-bits/


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Sounds like you are already along way down that rabbit hole.... no turning back now

 

I would suggest finding a new powdercoating business. The one I use specialises in bike stuff, they also own a Harley shop. Very good work and meticulous preparation. Ally parts are blasted with Al oxide. If you can find someone like that it is well worth paying a little bit more.

 

Here is that "bung" above the exhaust.... including the part number.
It is a rubberised steel bung. The small bolt above it does nothing in terms fo keeping it in position. I am guessing that they use this head on another model that has either a Tacho drive or something coming from there as the small bolt has a locating pin on the end of it.

 

Just remembered that plug block's off where the Auto Decomp linkage is on the XT250 4V's

 

Thats right... I forgot I had to take that off the TT350 head... DOH

 

Etch prime the cases and then Scotchbrite them before the gloss black.
There are some really good clear coats in the Eastwood range too.
Diamond clear in a can is great to use and will go over bare metal if you machine off the fin edges like factory finish.

As for the tool for the shims. It depresses the bucket allowing you to pop the shim out.
Overall it isn’t too hard to loosen up the cam chain tensioner and lift each cam up.
No need to remove the bucket if you don’t want to.


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I used the Aluminium look Duplicolor but then used the Eastwood Diamond clear over the top.
It goes a long way and gives a really good finish.
I also used it on my rims ( on the painted surface )
For a clear that can be used on bare metal it is really good.
The other paint I have used is gloss black caliper paint. It is pretty tough and has great gloss.
Engine heat won’t affect it either.

If you think the Eastwood paint is expensive I am looking at having a play with a 2 Pak Clear in a can from DNA- Custom paints in Adelaide.
It is a German paint and is $57 a can I think, plus freight lol


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