That'll be nice on the XS1100 , next project. Fitted the FZR clutch plates, went for a good ride & no problems, pulls like a train, reaches full revs, no chugging. Very relieved.
Hey guys, I measured the float heights whilst testing the fit of the thicker o-rings. I found that with the gasket surface inclined down at 39 degrees from horizontal the float was just touching the needle and not compressing the needle spring. That cutout is 16.2mm - so aim for 16mm - it kisses the peak of the float. Also here is a pic of what I had setup to measure my fuel level - the graduations on the syringe aren't one millimetre, but I measures 9.2mm = 16 intervals - there isn't fuel in the tube in this shot - it's just to show the tech.
Well done my friend, you have settled an issue that has been bothering several members. I am not a mechanic and therefore do not have all the answers but something bothered me re the float levels and the measurement of such. After all we are talking carbs, all have adjustments to float level with set measurements, why would the fzr be any different. This should help sort out this issue once and for all. Thanks a million for the info.
Ruckus you have to make sure when you take that measurement that the needle seat is completely home. Of course you probably know this already but I have to mention it. Because other owners will try to set the float height statically but their o-ring may be a tight fit and it will creep out of its seat while they try to set their float height. This can be overcome by bolting a float bowl on backwards to ensure that the needle seat remains fully seated while you set the float height. Probably be a good idea to make a sticky thread outlining those details.
Good point Maelstroom - however let me explain... Interestingly with the square profile o-rings I have and the thicker round profile ones I tested when the seat is installed it pushes down and stays put. For reference for anyone else reading not aware of our discussion on thicker o-rings I've found that 7.5mm I.D. * 2.0mm are a good fit. I put it down to reduced play in the groove on the seat, so when you install the seat it pushes the apex of the o-ring past the taper sufficiently to get a firm hold on the straight section of the cavity. They go in with sufficient force to make me confident of a good seal and also hold the seat down flush when inserted. Removing them takes some effort also - so I think we're good here on a useable size that will eliminate any suspicion of fuel leaking past the needle seats and causing problems.
Yes I am waiting for Mr Grey to try some out on his 3 sets of carbs to see how this size and another one fits. Then I will produce some in a larger size. The 7.5 ID that Ruckus mentioned is the minimum acceptable ID. This just in from Matt at Harper's ultrasonic regarding this issue. "This looks to be an intermittent problem on that family of Mikuni carbs; I have had the same issue on some GSXR side draft carbs with a similar plastic (nylon?) moulded cradle that incorporates the float pivot and valve seat. in the end I used some slightly fatter seals from a generic source." I suggest that once we come to the right conclusion we make a sticky on the forum regarding this o-ring. It will affect everyone with these carbs not just some of my customers.
Actually I found a more specific reference on permitted stretch when fitted, for different sizes of o-rings. The 7.50 * 2.0 is perfectly acceptable. Now if we can just find Mr Grey.
please please please check the charge rate if it goes wonky on you - remember I checked mine and originally found the fuse connection to be poor. Thought I had it solved and onto carb issues - only to find out later I had carb issues, the previously solved fuse issue, and I had an intermittent charging issue which luckily got worse very quickly
Trying to 'fix' the main fairings and the dodgy arrangements from POs If anyone has spare fairings lying around or have theirs off ATM can u post some pix of the main bottom front fixing. Obviously the rivet here is rubbish but Id like to see if anything other than a bolt hole is supposed to be there.
that spring steel attachment, though not original should work and have a thread that will take a machine screw. If you can't get anything to thread in the one you have, replacements are available in those small packs on the rotating display stands at repco and the likes - possibly supercheap etc On mine fairly certain it take a 5mm metric screw as I've had it apart recently
Mr Grey, Here is the quote from the article I referenced about the pilot jets ********************************************************************* Another question that often comes up is the need for the air bleed holes in the sides of the pilot jet. If you pulled the original pilots from your 38s, you may have found that they had no bleed holes. They weren't needed on the 38s because the pilots mount upside down, flow in reverse, and flow only fuel or the already made fuel/air mix - the air that would "bleed" through the side holes is added above or below the jet. The pilots on the 34s, though, mount in the normal manner, screwed up into the main carb body. Air is fed to the side of the jet (again, the norm) to create the air/fuel mix so the bleed holes are required in the 34 pilot jets. ************************************************************************** cheers Blair
Regardless of whether it causes a problem or not, it has been proven that some FZR 250s require a non-standard o-ring to be fitted to the float seat. Mr Grey is awaiting arrival of these by "Australia Post Camel Delivery" so that he can see if it solves his issues. Mr Ruckusman also had a charging issue, so he is waiting for his new regulator/rectifier to arrive and Willrcr15 has no issues with the standard sized part as supplied by me as part of his carb kit.