Yea thats the plan .... I have an inline spark tester to try out ..... just sorting the tank after yesterdays out of fuel moment...... then I can do some running testing. I managed to retreive the long internal filter but I think theres still a fishing sinker still left in there that must have got wedged somewhere from the last tank cleanout Filter looks a bit sad also .... hopefully nothing has reached the carbs
if worried put an external filter on.see if motor runs and take off one plug cap at a time and check spark... purple or blue is tops. orange is craphouse. red is almost as bad,do at nite time to get colour.leccy can load coil to see if overheats and breaks down. how are the earths back to battery?
Filter does look a little sad Little surprised that the fuel is in that state already?? Fingers crossed that all goes well from here forward. Thought of the day= Keep that tank "FULL"
Yea there was actually 2 small sinkers still in there .... they must have knocked out the inline filter to let the big lumps thru.....must have been all my Marquez lean angles yesterday sloshing the fuel about I guess doing the tank liner is another one for the list. Put in a new inline filter. Checked the little filter that goes in the carby t piece inlet and there was nil crud. Adjusted the clutch and re routed the cable. Bent the gear lever outwards. The batt earth to motor bolt is tight as **** ..... so Ill leave that cuz if it shears off Ill pour 10ltrs of BP91 over it and have a bonfire
Swapped out the black box Tank FULL of fuel .... well nearly. Battery 11.8 v at crank over 14.4 v at revs Test the spark when its dark.
Check the earth to the engine block - down in front of the swingarm pivot and also check the earth for the regulator recitifier, doodad with 3 or so wires which sits on the cross of the frame under the seat above the swingarm pivot point or thereabouts. BTW I have previous rust sealing in my tank all flaking loose, not much rust in there, but I just started using electrolysis to get rid of what rust there is before attempting to reseal it. peace out
so... not the spark.... maybe the carbs still need to be balanced and synchronised??? or has that part been covered grey??
heres my response a few posts back to the main earth lead..... And the regulator was removed cleaned and 're earthed' during the rebuild I attempted to sync before I had the airbox sorted so that needs to be attempted again ..... I only have little short crappy plastic adapters so Im going to get some long decent brass ones to make it a thousand times easier.
Now lets reiterate what my problem is, as I think with all the posts and my rambling posts and the off topic posts , what Im chasing has been lost. The bike goes .....it starts first go and goes well enough out on the road ..... a proper sync of the carbs will help Im sure but it doesnt stutter, miss or have any noticeable flat spots. The random thing it is doing (before and now after the carb rebuild) is that when u slow down to idle and stop , it stalls then does this ........ not every time just at random. (this vid is from awhile ago but is exactly wat it did yesterday) Now when u let it sit for 15-20 minutes or so , it will start normally and off you go. Now to me thats something failing when its hot and after a bit of a cool down its good to go.... or something like that. What would be interesting would be to test the spark straight after it has died.....but then if 1 coil was failing thru heat it would run on 2 cylinders and at least rev a little...... but Im just guessing. Ive swapped out the black box but I cant test ride untill Tuesday. I have a spare fuel pump I will try also.
Yea it does .... thats why I thought originally it was the carbys .... bowls not refilling kinda thing ......but they obviously have been totally redone and the floats are even from the spare set. First thing I did when it did it yesterday .... no go.
So you are turning the throttle but the rpm is not increasing. Also when the bike has been sitting for 15 minutes it will go for sometime. 1/ It cannot be electrical related to spark as that is not related to turning the throttle. 2/ It could be electrical related to fuel pump. 3/ This means it has to be related to fuel supply and since the carburettors are in pretty good condition it points to the fuel pump. Could you use a spray bottle to squirt some fuel into the carbs while it is exhibiting this fault and you are trying to open the throttle? Or swap out your spare pump from the other bike? cheers Blair
Yea throttle does zero .... choke does zero. The problem with squirting fuel into the carbs is that by the time you got to do that (tank off , airbox off etc) it would probably have 'righted' itself again Nothing makes alot of sense. When I rode the bike 'before carby rebuild' I went 3/4 blocks up the street and when I would stop to u turn it would have the problem ..... this happened 3 times ? On Saturday I rode say 30klms , stopped where the first pic was taken, then rode off no problem. After about 10/15klms more I slowed down, pulled over to turn around and it stalled and had the 'problem' I kept getting impatient and kept trying to start it and actually went 200 metres around a corner just in the 'idle' mode in 1st gear ..... mainly to stop everyone thinking I had a problem and stopping to help. But it has to sit for a length of time before it goes back to normal. When it finally started it went just fine and about 1oklms later I was accelerating hard , got to about 120kmh and she coughed and spluttered to a halt ..... but we know the cause of that ... Now if the fuel pump is the culprit why doesnt it affect the running while on the throttle? ...... does the pump run all the time while u are cruising along at say ½ or ¾ throttle ? ..... or does it just jump in at 'low' revs ?
take the fuel pump out of the loop and pipe directly to the carbs from the petcock, then put in a full tank or petrol. The pump may be faulty or it may have a pinhole in the diaphragm, or it could have a blockage with accumulated gunk. Have you disassembled the petcock to check that there isn't anything in there impeding the fuel flow? Not sure if they can be disassembled as I haven't yet checked mine. peace out
had a similar problem years ago in an old car and it was the condenser. my gut feeling is electrical under heat.
Well I was thinking that after the fuel pump had done a certain amount of work, or got hot enough, it is starting to play up. You can buy a contact set for those fuel pumps as seen on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_kw=fuel+pump+kit+yamaha
May be not the case, but I am wondering if it is the actual throttle cable. Had a old 6 cyl ZK Fairlane a few years back the throttle cable ran over the top of the tappet cover & the heat would eventually melt the plastic, pull apart the lines of the cable & jam the throttle open at a certain point, rubbing on the tappet cover was also a big contributor to this. Went through 4 of the damn things until I graduated to my beautiful V8 Fairlane. To me from your vid, that looks like what you have, it doesn't appear to have a lot of travel of the grip there. Just throwing it out there as something to check. I'm probably way off base though. Just check it though to be thorough. You seem to have checked everything else. Maybe even change it if you have a spare just in case it is a problem you can't see visually with the cable.