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Project Linkin's FZR250R 3LN3

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Linkin, Jan 31, 2015.

Page 13 of 37
  1. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Well the needles look almost new so this bike could not have done too many miles.
    Make sure you don't get the needles etc mixed up. Sure you have that one covered though.
     
    maelstrom, Mar 12, 2015
    #241
  2. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Mr Green ....would that more intricate setup with the needles , springs etc cause the needles to travel a smoother ,straighter path than before , therefore a lot less wear?

    I don't think those carbs had ever been open .... the screw heads wear pretty much unmarked except for one outer one had been replaced ... probably was damaged using a Philips and replaced ..... the others were very tight .... enough for someone to give up on after the first attempt
     
    GreyImport, Mar 12, 2015
    #242
  3. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Yes, Mr Grey that was my thinking too. The needles would never wear if they were held firm in exactly the right position because they would never touch the emulsion tube. But gravity is not helping with these downdraft carbs, so we must consider that the engineers were taking steps to do something about this. Can you compare how floppy the needles are across the two types?
     
    maelstrom, Mar 12, 2015
    #243
  4. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Will do ....

    So in effect the changes in these carbs are just purely design/performance improvements from the 1 to the 3/5 to the 6/7?

    Does say running the 3LN6 carbs on a 3LN1 motor ... or vice versa , or any such non stock combo .... make any difference ?

    With the gravity thing , Ive noticed theres always a groove worn into the tube in 1 spot on the very worn ones
     
    GreyImport, Mar 12, 2015
    #244
  5. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    No idea Mr Grey.
    We can assume that any changes would be improvements Changing the body casting dies would be an expensive and time consuming process so it must have been done for a reason. You could only look at each change and try to surmise the reason.
    The needle mounting change would appear to be to overcome the wear issue. Perhaps the square shaped o-ring at the top of the slide housing has something to do with vibration.
     
    maelstrom, Mar 13, 2015
    #245
  6. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    So the thermostat works/opens but some muffin has drilled holes in it ......


    Thermo.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 1
    GreyImport, Mar 13, 2015
    #246
  7. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Why do people do these stupid things............beyond comprehension at times :aggressive:
     
    Phil, Mar 13, 2015
    #247
  8. risky

    risky risky

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    some thermostats come with those holes.
     
    risky, Mar 13, 2015
    #248
  9. Mclaren

    Mclaren Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    If they not factory which fzr ones arnt like that good job on neatness thou
     
    Mclaren, Mar 13, 2015
    #249
  10. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Hmm... green is the colour of oxidised brass...
     
    Joker, Mar 13, 2015
    #250
  11. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    You could be right, however when they do they don't normally drill over markings ?????
    Leads me to think that this was done by some individual.
     
    Phil, Mar 13, 2015
    #251
  12. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Yeah the thermostat definitely had the dodgy bro's. treatment. We boiled it and it did open, but it is a consumable item so we replaced it.

    The model you need is a Tridon TT239-180. It is the same thermostat as a suzuki swift, in case that helps.

    However, it is too wide to fit. You have to crush the supports a bit so that it fits inside the housing. Very easy to do in a vice.

    We did flush the coolant out of my bike and Grasshopper's, mine came out clean but he had rusty water coming out for ages. Both have been topped off with the green stuff now.

    Today we are going to see about dis-assembly of the front bits (radiator and wheel perhaps) to change the cam chain
     
    • Like Like x 1
    Linkin, Mar 14, 2015
    #252
  13. risky

    risky risky

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    tridon is an aftermarket brand.the holes are to let a small amount of water to circulate while the bike warms up. wether that happens or not i cannot guarantee.
     
    risky, Mar 14, 2015
    #253
  14. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    The holes were done at home .... they even left bits of metal shavings on them :headbang:

    Putting holes there defeats the purpose of a closed thermostat
     
    GreyImport, Mar 14, 2015
    #254
  15. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    A most reasonable request one would think. :lolsign:
     
    Phil, Mar 14, 2015
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  16. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Yesterday's shenanigans

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Note we didn't need the paper gasket, the rubber one on the thermostat is what seals it in the housing
     
    Linkin, Mar 14, 2015
    #256
  17. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Today we took off the radiator, moved the wiring loom etc out of the way and got into the rocker cover

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is where we ran into trouble with the Dodgy Bros. handiwork.

    Firstly the inner spark plugs were not in straight. Thankfull they weren't tightened all the way so threads weren't totally stuffed. We were able to thread them in correctly with some persuasion. Possibly explains why it sounded really crappy and was popping or running on 3 cylinders.

    It should't be too difficult to break the chains and join the new onto the old. The idea is to use the old cam chain to pull the new one through the engine. We have to be careful not to lose the timing. The stator cover will need to come off so we can see the timing marks. Brian suggested just putting it in gear and turning the wheel with the sparkplugs out. One less seal to break.

    Every thread or guide I've found says to safety wire or otherwise secure the chain so it doesn't fall in or skip a tooth. We have to be careful to capture the pin as well.

    I even read a thread where someone just removed a link from the cam chain!! Dodgy bro's strike again!

    Or just manually extending the tensioner a few more notches out! Double dodgy!
     
    Linkin, Mar 14, 2015
    #257
  18. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    @Linkin Take the camshafts out. You must not rotate the crank with the camshafts disconnected from the chain, or you will bend the valves.

    Once you get the old chain out practice fitting links back together on it until you are an expert.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2015
    maelstrom, Mar 14, 2015
    #258
  19. risky

    risky risky

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    all i will say is i have seen new thermostats with those holes.
     
    risky, Mar 14, 2015
    #259
  20. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    We're not going to remove the cams, just remove that cam chain cover, split both chains, join new one on the old, and keep it taught by holding it while rotating the engine to feed in the new chain. Then once all of the old chain is out of the engine, separate the old chain and join the new one back together
     
    Linkin, Mar 14, 2015
    #260
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