Project Linkin's FZR250R 3LN3

It is dead easy to remove and refit the cams and no risk.

"Keep it taught"
The only reason you have to keep it taught is because if it moves just a tiny bit you are going to have bent valves. I have fitted plenty of cam chains and I would never leave the cams in to do that.

 

Anyway good luck. I hope you get it done and I don't have to say I told you so.
On the subject of the spark plug threads a similar issue came up on another forum
Check these things out http://www.toolandfix.com/automotive/tools/spark-plug-tools.html

 

Rotate the engine to where the cam marks line up usually on cylinder 1 on TDC compression (no valves open).
Unbolt cams and tensioners etc and pull cams out.
Mess around with cam chain until you are happy (no bent valves).
Rotate engine back to that start point and fit cams.
Dummy join cam chain and check all marks are aligned correctly.
Join chain correctly.

 

I am not familiar with the Fizzer to that extent. However there is little difference between models.
The guide might already be resting against the chain so you cannot push it any further. You have to push it back if you want to test if it is moving.

You can download an FZR400 manual or FZR600 manual and you would find that they are basically all the same.
Here is the FZR600 manual. p4-8 procedure 1 should be what you want.
http://litetek.co/docs/Manual_Service_Yamaha_FZR600_W-WC.pdf

Or you can go to my FZR600 carb kit page and the service manual is at the bottom. Right click save as etc

 

Page 4-74 (600 manual) shows the re-assembly. Read that section first so that you can rotate the engine and cams to the correct position before removing cams etc and to familiarise yourself with the procedure.

 

Looks like this

 

You have to release the ratchet to let the tensioner extend.
Page 172

 

But you usually set it right in, fit and then install the spring and bolt which push the tensioner into the blade.

 

Check that the tensioner is moving freely and that the spring etc has not been butchered.

 

Note on page 171 that you can just poke the tensioner blade with a screwdriver when you are checking your cam chain tensioner marks.
Also if you have another tensioner from your spare Fizzer engine it may be worth pulling the spring out and comparing.

 

Ok well if you let the guide fully extend by releasing the ratchet when the spring is fitted. Then try to fit to the engine it will hit the blade and the tensioner assembly would be sitting out about 18mm. If you used the two screws to pull it in you would hear the ratchet clicking as the tensioner bar gets compressed against the spring.

 

Sorry my bad.
Yes, you should be able to feel the blade tighten against the cam chain. Like I said the "push blade with screwdriver to take up cam chain slack and check timing marks".
If you take the cams out you can remove and inspect the blade on the exhaust side but I do not think you can remove the inlet side one.

 

Do you guys have Skype?

 

In any case I think the blades would shag out long before one of those Hyvo cam chains.