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Project GSX250 restoration

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by SwarleyAUS, Mar 21, 2017.

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  1. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    • Like Like x 4
    SwarleyAUS, Apr 9, 2017
    #121
  2. Johnny

    Johnny Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Nice colour! What type of paint did you use? And are there any plans to modify the bike (i.e make a cafe racer or something)?
     
    Johnny, Apr 10, 2017
    #122
  3. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Using https://www.dulux.com.au/products/metalshield in rattle cans. Everything else is getting blaaaaaaaaaaaack'd. Haven't decided if it'll be satin or gloss yet though. Yeah after I get roadworthy cert I will try to make it a bit cleaner - electrics box, mudguard delete, restricted pods, wrap exhaust... all that stereotypical stuff ;)
     
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    SwarleyAUS, Apr 10, 2017
    #123
  4. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Decided I'm gonna try a gloss finish! Finished priming the tank ready for filler putty & colour. You can see the cream colour I'm going with got on the tail, there's a little blush of colour on the white primer I did as a test. Looks good I reckon =)

    17838712_10212896418303975_1298911499_o.jpg 17901928_10212896417863964_1958279664_o.jpg 17901875_10212896417943966_1024024960_o.jpg 17836768_10212896418183972_1412725442_o.jpg
     
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    SwarleyAUS, Apr 11, 2017
    #124
  5. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Coming along ok!

    17916565_10212918129006729_1619532884_o.jpg
     
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    SwarleyAUS, Apr 13, 2017
    #125
  6. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    The prepping and painting continues! Forks are coming together and looking sweet, also made mounting brackets for the new indicators (F&R).

    IMG20170417121757.jpg IMG20170417122055.jpg

    Prepping rear drum for painting:
    IMG20170417112140.jpg

    (Hopefully) finished painting the tank and tail. Going to apply some black racing stripe decals down the middle at some point.
    IMG20170416143646.jpg IMG20170416143654.jpg
     
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    SwarleyAUS, Apr 17, 2017
    #126
  7. Johnny

    Johnny Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    If I have to pick one ugly part about the GSX250 then it's the original turning lights, especially in the back, so it's nice that you replaced them! :D
     
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    Johnny, Apr 18, 2017
    #127
  8. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Got a new brake light on the way too so that they all match eventually =) Flasher relay doesn't work with these indicators so hopefully I can get them working with an eBay replacement. Not sure if the indicators will pass roadworthy, more importantly, at the moment though. They have to be 30cm apart but there's no further definition to this (ie centre of light source or minimum spacing). If it's minimum distance between edges of the light source then they won't pass at the moment - will have to try bending the brackets into an S-shape to give more spacing if so.
     
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    SwarleyAUS, Apr 18, 2017
    #128
  9. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Indicator's must be a minimum of 300mm between them, i reckon they mean between centre's of the lense?

    Looking at your indicator's, there is 10mm of thread 's on the inside of the nut's, i reckon if you took them off and fit a nut to the thread then fit the indicator to the mount and fit the original nut back on the back you could space them out another 10mm or so on each side.
    You could even put another nut between the frame and the mount plate at the front to space them a bit more there if you need to as well.
     
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    my67xr, Apr 18, 2017
    #129
  10. Johnny

    Johnny Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I agree with what's been said before, but at the inspections, the guy before you will be there with a hard tail, raked forks, suicide clutch and no brakes, so no-one cares about the distance of the indicators, no?
     
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    Johnny, Apr 18, 2017
    #130
  11. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    All very true... Time to buy some more nuts!
     
    SwarleyAUS, Apr 18, 2017
    #131
  12. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone provide recommendations for buffing/cutting/polishing compounds & processes? I've wet-sanded the tank and tail with 1200 grit so it's all scuffed. Tried applying Armour All cream cut & polish to eliminate the sanding marks but of course that was too simple to work -_-

    I think I need to A) wet sand with finer, like ~3000 grit sandpaper and B) use a proper buffing compound - would people agree? If so the latter is where I need help... Can this be performed by hand/drill driver or do I need a rotary tool? What would be a suitable buffing compound? Thanks!
     
    SwarleyAUS, Apr 20, 2017
    #132
  13. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Why don't you give it a clear coat after sticker/stripes have been put on, that will give you shine and protect the stripes/stickers.
     
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    Murdo, Apr 20, 2017
    #133
  14. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Shouldn't need to polish it once the final coat it on ?
    You are best off trying to get a perfect flat finish when you spray it if you can, but don't get any run's.
    2k paint will flatten off for a minute or so after it's been sprayed, it's just a matter of practice to get the perfect coat

    If you rubbed it back because it has to much peel, you should be able to carefully polish it out with some Meguiars Ultimate Compound and a decent brand microfibre cloth within 12 hour's of painting it, or get a Clay Bar kit and flatten it with that.
    If you wait too long after painting it the cured 2K will be too hard to polish by hand, it'll need a buff and you could probably use the polish you have.
    Go lightly on it if it's a cutting compound, or else you'll get buff burn's and drag the paint off
    Use a decent wax when you have polished it too.
     
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    my67xr, Apr 20, 2017
    #134
  15. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys I'll try that compound. Yeah I don't want to do clear coat if I don't have to because it's more cost, might yellow, I'd have to find something that is compatible with the enamel colour and I'll probably just keep have the same issue I'm having now. That being debris, bugs and lumps appear in the finish whilst drying due to my less than perfectly-clean spray area.

    I also do want to get rid of most of the orange peel, so regardless of whether I clear coat or not, I'll have to do this buffing of the paint after wet-sanding.

    I don't think I'm using 2K, just epoxy enamel.
     
    SwarleyAUS, Apr 20, 2017
    #135
  16. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Ok, next time you spray try warming up the can's first (hot air gun on low for a minute) then shake, repeat, then give them a decent shake for 2 min's to mix the paint better.
    It'll help the paint to go on smoother and require less finishing after it's dry
     
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    my67xr, Apr 20, 2017
    #136
  17. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Mmm I do warm up the cans. If I can't buff the scratches out I'll just do another coat and live with the peel... and hope I don't get and weird lumps in the finish.
     
    SwarleyAUS, Apr 20, 2017
    #137
  18. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    If it is the colour coat you should get yourself some 2000 and 3000 wet and dry and wet sand till it is flat... There are some wonderful cutting compounds around now that are exceptionally easy to use... The Megs Ultimate is OK... but it is more used for small areas when detailing cars... getting rid of scratches etc...
    If you want some good advice... call Detail Central and talk to Daniel... he will point you in the right direction.

    If you are able to though... get yourself some decent clear.. there are a couple available in cans that will give you a pretty slick finish with little or no need to wet sand or buff.
    They are not cheap but it is well worth it after all the time and effort you went to getting it to where it is now.
    I am sure your local paint supplier will be able to steer you in the right direction.
     
    Andych, Apr 20, 2017
    #138
  19. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Lump's in the paint mean's the paint has settled in the bottom of the can and you haven't shaken it enough
     
    my67xr, Apr 20, 2017
    #139
  20. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm maybe I'll try a clear. Less sanding sounds good to me. Then I don't need any special tools either. Thanks guys, I'll see what I can find. The difficulty is that the colour is enamel, not acrylic.
     
    SwarleyAUS, Apr 20, 2017
    #140
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