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Project GSX250 restoration

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by SwarleyAUS, Mar 21, 2017.

  1. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    With no choke, ok, damn. Thought they might have been to far open and allowing excess air in, presenting as an air leak issue.
     
  2. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    If a bike is running / setup correctly then it should start with the choke on when cold and no choke when warm/hot and no throttle at any time during the starting/ idling process
     
  3. Johnny

    Johnny Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    From the Resources section of this forum get the correct Parts Catalogue (from which I have posted pictures from) for your bike, it includes all the diagrams.
    From BikeCliff's website you can download the factory manuals for GS250T and GSX400: http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/
    The GS250T had either the same engine as GSX250 or at least a very-very similar one, definitely go through those too.

    About the intake boots: in order to remove mine, I had to saw the old washers through with a hacksaw blade, only then I could get the bolts to turn. Couldn't save the boots neither, replaced everything. I did try penetrating oil, impact driver, heat, you name it, but no success.
     
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  4. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Johnny I'll give that a go!
     
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  5. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Stupid question but do we conclusively know that the high idle is not just because the engine is cold? Looking back at my 1:30 and 0:30 long videos, the idle did eventually come down to ~1500rpm. I can't remember why but I don't think I was playing with the choke at all. Is it ok to run the engine at for a few minutes at 5k rpm to see if this is the case - that the idle comes down to normal range once warm?
     
  6. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Ok she's idling! At 1500rpm! After warming her up for about 1-2 minutes whilst tweaking the choke to get a ~3000rpm idle I can turn the choke off completely and adjust the idle throttle speed dial. Woohoo! The idle's a bit rough, not a very consistent rumble... I'm assuming this is due to carb butterfly/mixtures being unsynchronised? My worst nightmare appeared again tonight though... ominous smoke from the engine. Looked to be coming off the fins on the right cylinder =/ Last time I thought it was just WD40 that dripped on the exhaust... do people reckon this is just the crud on the cylinder getting burnt off, the fact it's not being ridden and has no cooling or something more sinister? Thanks!

    Carby clean has (somewhat) fixed the throttle issue. Throttle seems to get stuck when I rev it, but haven't investigated. Above smoke put a halt to running her any longer tonight.

    Thanks for all your help guys, she's getting there! =D
     
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    Last edited: Apr 3, 2017
  7. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Take throttle grip off the handlebar, clean up and gease both, and the throttle cable(s) while you're at it.
     
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  8. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I'll have to check that the cable isn't sticking tomorrow. Grip has plenty of spring tension to return to zero throttle. Butterflies were moving well off the bike, but it got stuck at 3k for a few seconds when I gave it a spurt.
     
  9. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    That is typical of an air leak.
     
  10. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    I'll make a video if you guys reckon the smoke isn't a terminal diagnosis... Idle is at a constant rpm, just burbling a bit sporadically like 'wub wub ... wub wub wub .. wub . wub wub', not a consistent 'wub wub wub' if you know what I mean lol

    Scratch the above, misread your comment. Yeah got new boots and carb parts on order!
     
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  11. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    A good run under load , in other words out on the road with an arse in the seat and not just a rev or 2 in the garage , will do it the world of good if its been sitting for a long period
     
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  12. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Oh gosh only if I realllllly have to! ;)
     
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  13. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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  14. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    To wire up the number plate light this would be the way to go right? Tap into Orange wire from ignition switch, then to light and via Black/White wire returning to battery?
    Untitled.png
     
  15. Johnny

    Johnny Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  16. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Hmm I have two globes in the tail light, but they both only come on when I brake. They don't come on with I turn on the instrument lights either. The wiring must be wrong.
     
  17. Johnny

    Johnny Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Both bulbs have two filaments inside, one for running, the other for breaking. Start by replacing the bulbs first, as both could have burnt running light filaments. Only then, if you have new bulbs and they still don't function, start looking for a bad connection / broken wire.
     
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  18. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Ah ok dual purpose globes, I'll see how they look tomorrow, thanks.
     
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  19. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    They have staggered pins also

    globe.jpg
     
  20. SwarleyAUS

    SwarleyAUS Well-Known Member

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    Ok yep park light element was fried!
     
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