With no choke, ok, damn. Thought they might have been to far open and allowing excess air in, presenting as an air leak issue.
If a bike is running / setup correctly then it should start with the choke on when cold and no choke when warm/hot and no throttle at any time during the starting/ idling process
From the Resources section of this forum get the correct Parts Catalogue (from which I have posted pictures from) for your bike, it includes all the diagrams. From BikeCliff's website you can download the factory manuals for GS250T and GSX400: http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/ The GS250T had either the same engine as GSX250 or at least a very-very similar one, definitely go through those too. About the intake boots: in order to remove mine, I had to saw the old washers through with a hacksaw blade, only then I could get the bolts to turn. Couldn't save the boots neither, replaced everything. I did try penetrating oil, impact driver, heat, you name it, but no success.
Stupid question but do we conclusively know that the high idle is not just because the engine is cold? Looking back at my 1:30 and 0:30 long videos, the idle did eventually come down to ~1500rpm. I can't remember why but I don't think I was playing with the choke at all. Is it ok to run the engine at for a few minutes at 5k rpm to see if this is the case - that the idle comes down to normal range once warm?
Ok she's idling! At 1500rpm! After warming her up for about 1-2 minutes whilst tweaking the choke to get a ~3000rpm idle I can turn the choke off completely and adjust the idle throttle speed dial. Woohoo! The idle's a bit rough, not a very consistent rumble... I'm assuming this is due to carb butterfly/mixtures being unsynchronised? My worst nightmare appeared again tonight though... ominous smoke from the engine. Looked to be coming off the fins on the right cylinder =/ Last time I thought it was just WD40 that dripped on the exhaust... do people reckon this is just the crud on the cylinder getting burnt off, the fact it's not being ridden and has no cooling or something more sinister? Thanks! Carby clean has (somewhat) fixed the throttle issue. Throttle seems to get stuck when I rev it, but haven't investigated. Above smoke put a halt to running her any longer tonight. Thanks for all your help guys, she's getting there! =D
Take throttle grip off the handlebar, clean up and gease both, and the throttle cable(s) while you're at it.
Yeah I'll have to check that the cable isn't sticking tomorrow. Grip has plenty of spring tension to return to zero throttle. Butterflies were moving well off the bike, but it got stuck at 3k for a few seconds when I gave it a spurt.
I'll make a video if you guys reckon the smoke isn't a terminal diagnosis... Idle is at a constant rpm, just burbling a bit sporadically like 'wub wub ... wub wub wub .. wub . wub wub', not a consistent 'wub wub wub' if you know what I mean lol Scratch the above, misread your comment. Yeah got new boots and carb parts on order!
A good run under load , in other words out on the road with an arse in the seat and not just a rev or 2 in the garage , will do it the world of good if its been sitting for a long period
Yeehaw! Balancing the mixture settings seems to have completely fixed the hanging throttle! Next is to fix some lights - and install a number plate light which it doesn't have! and some new shoes! https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10212808337102000
To wire up the number plate light this would be the way to go right? Tap into Orange wire from ignition switch, then to light and via Black/White wire returning to battery?
You don't need a number plate light if you have the original taillight. The original taillight's underside is clear, thus the taillight bulbs illuminate the number plate. Here's a picture from the internet: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/HowAAOSw-jhUJlaJ/s-l1600.jpg
Hmm I have two globes in the tail light, but they both only come on when I brake. They don't come on with I turn on the instrument lights either. The wiring must be wrong.
Both bulbs have two filaments inside, one for running, the other for breaking. Start by replacing the bulbs first, as both could have burnt running light filaments. Only then, if you have new bulbs and they still don't function, start looking for a bad connection / broken wire.