Yeah its a fry up. Could be caused by lots of thing's, newish paint, clear coat went on too wet would be 2x guess's why it happened Looks like it was wiped with prepsol going by the marks its left, not always the case though.
Yeah nah no 'prepsol' or anything, just cleaned with a cloth after wet sanding. I'll be sanding off the 'fried' parts. I'm not gonna get a smooth finish with how lumpy it is =(
For the benefit of anyone reading this thread down the track, the warning about the paint yellowing I received was in regard to the clear coat changing the optical appearance of the colour, not the clear fading. Having applied the clear coat it is obvious that the tank colour has been yellow-shifted significantly as compared to parts without clear coat.
Clear coat usually darken's the look of the layer beneath, i can pick a car that's had a bad touch up pretty easy by the different shades across the panel I have used that Dulux 2K from an aerosol can in a spray gun before, ( i dropped the can and it snapped off the nozzle) it is a pretty clear clear coat
Yeah unfortunately I can see the difference between the clear coated part and another plain part petty easily. Wish I knew this before hand... Preferred the colour much more without the clear =( To make matters worse the 2K still isn't dry 12 hours after the can said it was supposed to be, so I'm getting really frustrated not being able to get it off. I think I'll just have to take it to an automotive paint place and get it done from scratch. I friggin hate painting. Never works out for me.
The clear finally dried enough that I could take it off today. Need to reapply some colour and then I can try the clear again down the line. The can of 2K I used also didn't give anywhere near a gloss finish so hopefully the clay bar can remedy that. At least other things are going well... mudguard shortened and in the process of being painted: Also fixed the temperamental horn and installed the main fuse that was absent. All the electrics & lighting is now working. Cleaned the chain, bled the caliper, mounted headlight and finally the tyres should be in Wednesday =D
Currently in the process of painting tank & mudguard, installed pillion pegs and patched holes in exhaust. Just awaiting new brake shoes now. New tyres though! Dunlop TT100's =D Next is finishing off painting the rear rim, wrapping the exhaust and maybe installing pods. Undecided whether I want to do the pods & electrics box before or after RWC ...hmmm Tomorrow I buy some new gear though!
Got both wheels on now so I could finally take her for a whirl! At the very least first and second work! Can start her without choke now even, still needs a bit of time to warm up though or else applying throttle stalls the engine. Seems odd to me but maybe that's normal.
Anyone got any bright ideas how to wrap the exhaust all the way from the top of the headers to the mufflers, given the GSX has a really wide balance pipe? https://www.google.com.au/imgres?im...tXTAhXBKpQKHWscBckQMwhnKDcwNw&iact=mrc&uact=8
If you used some Sheet heat wrap (i've seen it in 12" x 60" sheet's, might be able to source smaller sheet?)to wrap the crossover section first, then you should be able the wrap the pipe's seperately Just the pipe's would use up a 2" x 25' roll pretty easy i reckon It'd look similar to this but thinner as it's not wrapping a muffler, and would go the full way around it Otherwise you'd need a 50' roll of 2" wrap and a heap of stainless zip tie's and spend a couple of hour's trying to work out the best way to get it on neatly I have had to use stainless tie wire to keep the wrap from moving on some 2 stroke pipe's before
Thanks mate, yeah the problem is how to apply the wrap across the balance tube whilst neatly covering the length of the pipes as well, as I had to do some patch work to the exhaust next to the balancer that I want to cover. If it were a round tube it would be easy peasy. I'll just have to play it by ear. It's purely for aesthetics so I want the best way to make it look clean.
Ok question time... I've been experiencing two issues. Since filling up with new 91 (old was red dyed and new is yellow dyed if that affects anything) and using this in the bike, applying throttle hard causes the motor to bog down, but it doesn't stall. Seems like the issue I had originally that a clean of the pilot jet resolved. If I gradually apply throttle it picks up. Nothing has changed beyond the fuel. Perhaps I'll run some carby cleaner fuel additive in her. This issue is bearable but just a bit weird. What is frustrating though is now I have put the tank back on w/petcock (was just using the water bottle up til now)... If I apply ANY throttle the bike stalls in this stock setup. It happily idles. Another symptom is the bike usually revs high to 3-5k with the choke on, now it will only rev that high for a short while then come down. Sounds like fuel starvation to me? If I suck on the vacuum input to the petcock fuel does flow, but I wouldn't know if it is allowing enough volume through or not. Opening the primer screw doesn't seem to help. Any help appreciated, cheers.
Alright, so just tried with the water bottle again and she runs well. No weird choke/throttle issues so it must be due to restriction of the fuel flow due to petcock malfunctioning. I'll crack it open tomorrow and check it.
Okay so if I take off the side of the petcock that covers the diaphragm and blow into the vacuum port, there is a restriction in the air flow out the side that would go to the diaphragm vacuum chamber. So I'm wondering if this restriction is perhaps preventing the diaphragm from opening completely as the vacuum pressure is limited? The prime screw isn't leaking so the diaphragm must be opening somewhat but not enough under load...?
Have you had the tap off the tank ? It might have blocked up filter's or port's inside it? I guess you would notice it if there was a restricted flow from the outlet tube, have you tried switching it to prime and running the fuel into a bottle? To me it kind of sound's like the tiny hole in the bottom of the carby base, at the bottom of the thread's for the pilot jet is partly blocked still
Cheers, so yeah fuel flows through the petcock freely when the diaphragm isn't there (took out the diaphragm and re-assembled without it). I tried running the bike with the prime screw out (ON) and I don't think it's designed to work that way, wouldn't rev either - the prime screw is only supposed to trickle fuel through to the carbs to fill them, is my understanding of it. As I said I think the fuel flow issue is due to the diaphragm not being pulled open enough by the vacuum pressure. This could be the spring tension being too high or, as I suspect, the vacuum port being restricted. When I blow into the hose seen below, attached to the petcock vacuum port, air only comes through the two circled holes. The others must be blocked which wouldn't be helping get the chamber pressure down to pull the diaphragm open. This I believe is causing the issue I am experiencing as fuel from a bottle - lets the bike work perfectly - but fuel from the tank & petcock does not. Air is supposed to be drawn through all of these four holes am I right??
If so then I might just soak it in some carby cleaner. Worst come to worst I can run it without the diaphragm!
I think that did the job, whilst cleaning that part of the petcock a whole heap of black crud came out of the vacuum port. Sucking on the vacuum port/diaphragm now allows a greater amount of fuel to flow. Assuming there isn't an issue with the carb vacuum, it should be resolved. Phew.