Project GSX250 restoration

So the resistance isn't compression, it's just that there's pressure on two valve springs as oppose to one at once at that point in the cycle fortunately. Otherwise all clearances are within spec. Will leave as is for now.

Re cam timing you can see in the first pic the alignment of T mark and then in the next what the position of the cam notches are. Will leave this as is too for the time being though as I don't think the valves are fouling on the pistons.



Two other questions:

- Can anyone tell me what the spec is for the front caliper chassis bolts? I thought they were M10 based on this: http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsx250e...del13609/0910310038xc0-bolt-10x37_0910310038/, but M10s I ordered seize mid way into the thread.
- Can anyone also tell me how to remove the tacho cable from the cylinder head? Having removed the phillips screw the connection rotates, but I can't pull it out. What am I missing? Strength?
- Is the aforementioned wear on the cam lobes something that I need to deal with? Cheers guys.

 

Timing chain is ok, albeit borderline (near 78.9mm over 10 pitch):

 

Ah cool you learn something every day! I probably need the fine, cheers Murdo!

 

Got it, thanks guys. In the process of cleaning that valve cover, all the silver paint that was applied has come off, is it necessary to re seal/replace this paint?

The caliper I bought is rusted half to hell, so that's the next challenge while I await the correct bolts for it!

 

I'm assuming it's just the original silver finish, on there for aesthetics, rather than some special paint but just wanted to check.

 

Ok so got a battery today, some of the electrics are working... neutral light not, oil light is but is permanently on - is this normal?

Also all lights go out when I turn the key fully to the right (3rd position) can cannot start the bike - is this normal?

Starter ticks over (and crankshaft) in the 2nd key position but does not start. This is my setup for fuel delivery, put a couple hundred mL of petrol in and let it flow into the carbs. When I'm trying to start it it just hangs there:



Petcock vacuum line is sealed off too as you can see. As I've enquired before though, there is another vacuum line coming off carb #2 and looks to have been connected to something but I never saw what.

I have ok spark, blue-yellow, but they are not wet after a few attempts at starting.

Also have an oil leak from the oil filter cover... I've now tightened it down a lot more. I used a new o-ring though... could this issue be tied to the fact the oil pressure light is on?

Thanks guys.

 

Nevermind about the leaking oil issue, it was just a poorly seated oil filter cover o-ring. And from what I can tell GSX's have the oil light on when starting too.

 

Plugs still don't look to be at all wet after a good few attempts at starting, I dunno if it's that there's too little fuel in the carbs, a blockage somewhere in there or something else entirely...

 

I will give that a go now.

 

Yep floats have fuel in them. Sprayed a bit of carby cleaner in the airbox and got a new result, it started to turn over and was popping but wouldn't hold idle w/o starter. This is with choke pulled out (on).

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10212776566907765

EDIT: Yes blue and white sparks. I have new plugs I can fit if need be but they looked in decent shape so I thought I'd run it with what was already on it. New ones are lower heat range I think too...

 

I think so, didn't really want to go messing with everything and the fuel wasn't thick from age. The air screw being the ones on the front of the carb? Sitting vertical, accessible from the top?

 

She's running! Idling at 5k rpm though... air leak or what?

Right carb mixture screw has no o ring though I've found. Re set them both to 1.5 turns out.