Are you sure the markings aren't there? :/ Here's a photo from www.bwringer.com that shows how it should approximately look: http://bwringer.com/gs/images/gs_ign_rotor_early.jpg
Ah fantastic, thanks guys! I have to look through the inspection hole, got it! Got a carby-related question now... there's two vacuum hoses coming off the carb, one goes to the petcock, where does the other go? I didn't check where it was connected before it fell off the bike =/
Looking at parts like these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KR-Fuel-...388278?hash=item233359f2f6:g:kEsAAOSwTglYmGak, only the diaphragm in my petcock has an o-ring. Am I missing an o-ring on the body-side of the petcock perhaps? Or is it just the the o-ring is worn? Holding the diaphragm in place still sees the petcock leak.
So the second carby hose is a breather hose, if I'm not mistaken...? Can anyone comment about how to fix the leaking petcock?
Yes, if I hold the petcock diaphragm in place, emulating what the spring does, which should prevent fuel flow, fuel still leaks through. This makes me think it's the o ring but it doesn't look worn or dry. There's only 1 o ring in my petcock, on the diaphragm plunger.
I would be getting the repair kit .... but also checking that the petcock itself isnt damaged or tampered with .... we have had FZR ones that have been 'tampered' with in the name of science by POs
Read this: https://biketech7.blogspot.com.ee/2016/07/suzuki-gs550-petrol-tap-overhaul.html And then this: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?241779-Petrol-tap-issues-and-the-fix This should give you all the information available regarding the petcock subject. I myself could only say that first check that that little brass priming screw is tightened (that is if your petcock has that screw, some do not). If you're going to get a new petcock then the part number(s) needed are found here:
Yeah that GS550 petcock is almost identical to mine. I'm either having the same issue - four prongs hitting the diaphragm - or the plunger isn't quite right for the petcock. Trying grinding down the four prongs slowly at first because the o-ring looks fine, but no matter how hard I press on the plunger/diaphragm it still leaks.
Ok think I found my issue: Missing a couple o-rings on the brass screw! Anyone know a part number or spec such that I buy replacements? Thanks guys.
That thread that Johnny linked had the o'ring size's- 3mm x 1mm, 2.5mm x 1mm and 2mm x 1mm Most bearing shop's will sell Viton o'ring's, and some better car part's place's too Maybe Litetek has some Viton o'ring's in those size's too, @maelstrom ?
Ah cool! Read past that originally as I dismissed the prime screw as being the culprit. Awesome, wasn't having any luck finding any myself. Damn Lancashire Seal don't combine postage... fortunately found another eBay mob though.
Ebay sellers will combine postage for multiple items if u 'request total from sender' from your cart , if it doesnt do it automatically
Yeah eBay explicitly said this one doesn't... Anyway found another seller that isn't gonna charge me $20 for postage of $5 worth of items
Hello, Almost all posts about o-ring sizes on the internet are wrong. I'm not saying that you can't find something close that will fit but most of the OEM sizes are non-standard. cheers
Ok so checked the valve clearance today, all good except the left valve of the right cylinder intake, needed a bit more clearance. 10 links between indicators thank god! Few questions though: - Still oddly getting a lot of resistance manually turning the crankshaft when going through one of the four strokes - when the left hand cylinder cam lobes are down... am I measuring something wrong? I did L EX, R EX, L IN, R IN, starting with the crankshaft on position T (the side marked R| F| T|) and rotating 180 degrees each measurement. - Also noticed my 'T' alignment notch doesn't 100% match with the cam notch positions being at 90 degrees, don't know if this is causing the above or not. Ie. instead of the alignment being on the bar next to the engraved T, I'm aligned on the T itself. - Is this wear on the cam lobes something that I need to deal with? Cheers guys. Now just waiting on a battery! Can't wait!
For better pictures and for a better view for yourself, you may remove the gasket and the rubber "half-moons" from the end of the camshafts (on the right side), don't lose them though! I have adjusted valves by the Haynes manual. Make sure that the T mark and the notches on the camshafts match, and that you check the matching valves of course. I don't think the notches are at exactly 90 degrees on mine either, 'cause I have figured about it too. Still, I don't feel that confident about that myself neither and if you need more assurence, wait for someone else to comment, but I believe your engine is fine in that department.
Thanks Johnny, yeah the 1 and cam notches aren't quite horizontal when the mark next to the T is aligned with the indicator. Could that mean I need to adjust the position of the cams by a link or two? Am I correct in thinking this is inferring that the cam timing is advanced or delayed somewhat? Complete novice at this stuff! I'll take a better picture tonight for reference. Have to double-check tonight but I'm guessing the resistance is just compression (plugs back in)... that I'm not getting it on both cylinders is concerning. Will have to diagnose with plugs out again too.