could be over rich mixture or changed cam timing when accelerator off but both valves open. used in racing to cool inlets and as exhaust open ignites in muffler when comes in contact with fresh air.hrt used to do it.
First test ride the other day I had a flat tyre ...........front wheel valve stem was broken and I broke the spare front one while cleaning it, to put on . Today I changed front wheel with the repaired spare. Also on the ride the other day it was spluttering and I had to roll it home (how unusual) .... turns out the fuel hoses needed swapping from the tank , so that when it was on 'res' it was actually reserve! I only went up the local hill a few times and hammered it thru the gears ..... it flew .... felt like the front was going to lift in first ..... the previous owner has definately done something right (carbys were overhauled and valve clearances done) .......really tight and smooth thru the gears also............. makes me realise what a piece of crap mine is and how much off it is. At least now we can give the other areas the once over and get this thing up to scratch. Front end is not tracking correctly ..... it has hit the gutter or something when its gone down and hopefully it just needs the forks reset in the triple trees. How to change a front wheel by yourself the redneck way .....
Nice work Gungadin! I can't wait to ride this thing.... and also do some work on it.. Can't let Grey have all the fun!! Thanks mate.. the beers are cooling in the fridge....
Im just going to swap the whole engine + carbs and not tell him And the tools are warming in the shed
Ha ha! Yeah, good one...! Whatever needs to be done to get yours running, we'll do it, coz soon we'll need to go a-riding... Get your compressor warmed up,,, need to do some spray painting!
Hi Mr Grey, This is what I have done with hordes of crash repairs. Often the lower fork crown is the culprit and/or bent stanchion. If the crown then it can be a bent stem or one of the stanchion clamp sections is bent. 1/ disassemble 2/ check stanchions are straight 3/ mount lower fork crown in vice by clamping the stem 4/ fit stanchions (they can be clamped at their mid-point) 5/ use engineers level along stem (or good quality level if you don't have engineer jobby) 6/ Now check along stanchions and across both stanchions with a straight edge and the level You should now be able to determine what is bent. Now it is up to you whether you want to find replacement parts or repair the existing ones. Bent stanchions can be easily straightened if the bend is slight. Out of line by 10mm over length is about what I would consider maximum. If the stem is bent it can be pressed out and then have a new one made by your friendly machine shop. If it is aluminium then heating it first will expand it and allow the stem to come out quite easily. If one of the clamping sections is bent you need to make up something that will grip the entire section so that it can be straightened. I strongly advise against just using only the stanchion as a lever. I cannot advise you any further here as I would make something with thick chunks of steel and a stub to fit the stanchion clamp etc. Remember, I am a dinosaur. These days nobody can afford to do anything because the machine shop wants 8 billion dollars an hour etc. However maybe somebody knows someone with a lathe in their garage who will be happy to help you out. cheers Blair ps check the axle and wheel runout while you are there.
Mate bad timing I'm a fitter and turner but am 5 months into a refrigeration trade (dual tickets) But still now ppl let me now if u need something might be able to help
A bit of progress on the motorised grasshopper .... sorting out the rear end before we attack the front. pit crew at work.... Rear ready to rumble .... new Pirelli and a bit of spit and polish And of course all that toil and sweat deserved a reward .......