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Help Buying an FZR3LN

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Joker, Jan 6, 2015.

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  1. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Thanks dude, I was just a bit cautious about hitting the sump plug with a mallet in the wrong direction heh. Yeh I may read japanese but sometimes the brain strain makes it easier to ask someone who knows in english. Appreciate the header tip, I'll look at doing that as part of the servicing.

    Yeh I'm toying with the carby idea, getting the bowl screws of is near impossible but you could be right, something may have been sucked up a chamber so it's probably better to do the whole thing properly, it's off the bike anyway.

    Yeh it is pretty bad isn't it... what do you reckon's the best chain/sprocket kit to get? I've seen the slipstream performance ones but they seem pricey. There looks like another on ebay I can get from the UK for around $100 (front, rear and chain).
     
    Joker, Jan 9, 2015
    #61
  2. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Definately be cautious i have cracked a sump when trying to loosen the plug before.... NOT FUN!

    @GreyImport is there any nasties to know about when changing the oil on one of these?? ie. Threads for sump plug and filter?

    Personally i haven't done a chain and sprockets yet but was leaning towards o ring and steel sprockets so it'll last longer. Ebay stuff should be fine depends how soon you want it. I'm sure there would be somewhere in VIC you could get them from for around $130 tops
     
    Th3_Huntsman, Jan 9, 2015
    #62
  3. Mclaren

    Mclaren Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Both are right hand thread so loosen to left
    You right Phillips is for speed use a socket and give few taps use a bar on end of socket or breaker bar
    For sprockets go jt they cheap enough but still quality and keep standard 428 chain don't go 520
    I would clean carb properly the flakey stuff can get anywhere and why risk it if u have a seal kit coming I would just do it all and now it done properly
     
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    Mclaren, Jan 9, 2015
    #63
  4. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    All this is pretty normal 'hiding under the covers' stuff ..... but looks like nothing that too hard to sort.

    CR8Es are stock plugs
    Sump plug and filter are standard anti clockwise turn ...as suggested punch a screwdriver thru the filter to get it moving.
    Sump plug get the correct size socket and a breaker bar to get some leverage.

    Coolant ..... theres 2 bolts at the front of the head to drain the head while flushing.

    Coolant drain head.jpg


    Headers ...take them off .... sand them , wire brush them or wateva and spray them with heatproof paint

    If u remove the exup workings then be careful of the bush the flap sits in on the 'opposite' side internally.... putting it back together and setting it is not difficult

    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threa...-powervalve-information-and-maintenance.1099/

    What makes the sprocket cover hard to remove and replace is the bushing that goes over the output/gear shaft

    The front sprocket is history ..... new sprockets and chain are in order ..... flatten the lock washer and lossen the nut in gear and before u remove chain or rear wheel ...use the breaker bar ..... that thing has been on a LONG time .
    Please take some pics of the front sprocket removed and tell me wat number is stamped on it ...looks like 17 ... which is stock tooth number
    Also can u tell me wat numbers etc are stamped on the rear.

    FZR250 Standard Gearing.jpg


    Carbys ...... definitely replace the float bowl gaskets and remove all traces of that gasket goo **** ..... serves no purpose watsova except to put **** in your bowls ..... gaskets/o rings are there for a reason ...to seal!

    Carby screws need JIS screwdrivers

    Also at least replace the float seat o ring too

    Oil filters ....

    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/spin-on-oil-filters-to-suit-zxr-fzr-and-others.2391/

    We got the Slipstream chain and sprocket kit for the Grasshopper and Linkin FZRs

    Cheers Stu
     
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    GreyImport, Jan 9, 2015
    #64
  5. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Also .... when u put the sump plug back on ..... don't overtighten and use a new crush washer ...then it will come off easily next time

    crushwasher.jpg
     
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    GreyImport, Jan 9, 2015
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  6. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Well, the oil filter and sump plug were a B!7c# to remove but all done now.

    @GreyImport just for you mate: The front sprocket came off pretty easily, it seems to have some sort of "pressfit" green rubber fitted on either side of the sprocket. I guess it acts as a spacer, which is probably what you were wanting to confirm. I tried to take a couple of photos for you, let me know if you need more, they didn't turn out quite as I anticipated so I may have to try when there's better light.

    It looks like it's a standard 17T conversion (referencing the slipstream performance JT sprocket). The rear is 56T, and it's 7mm wide (excluding rubber). Hope that helps mate.

    20150110_092425.jpg 20150110_092452.jpg 20150110_092500.jpg
     
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    Joker, Jan 10, 2015
    #66
  7. Grasshopper

    Grasshopper Well-Known Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Hmm, that's an interesting looking sprocket - could be the proper original part - a keyed spacer....
     
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    Grasshopper, Jan 10, 2015
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  8. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    The rubber bits are usually used as a noise dampener, the edge of the chain makes light contact and doesn't rattle, so can pass the drive by noise test easier.
     
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    Murdo, Jan 10, 2015
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  9. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    @Murdo, I think you're right. I had a chat to a guy in the local Yammy shop who said the same thing - he's pretty sure that's the original sprocket and noise dampener that the bike would have had when passing compliance back in the early 90's.

    The other thing I found interesting is some kind of spacer sleeve on the shaft itself. I can't get it off, I'm still cleaning it down but whether or not that is a point of interest too...?

    20150110_091525.jpg 20150110_091531.jpg

    New plugs, oil, filter today. Any tips on coolant guys? Bike shop wanted $30 (2.8L container)... surely for a smidge over a litre of coolant you don't have to spend that much.
     
    Joker, Jan 10, 2015
    #69
  10. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    I run nulon red concentrate in mine mixed with distilled water. It costed about $30 but I have done 3 bikes coolant with that.
     
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    Th3_Huntsman, Jan 10, 2015
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  11. Grasshopper

    Grasshopper Well-Known Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    That space sleeve on the shaft doesn't need to come off... I think the question has been answered here to some degree.. @GreyImport may want to chime in here..

    Regarding coolant, the good quality car ones from Autobarn and the like are suitable (green or red - but not mixed...).
     
    Grasshopper, Jan 10, 2015
    #71
  12. Mclaren

    Mclaren Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    I run red nulon aswell when not racing
     
    Mclaren, Jan 10, 2015
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  13. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Joker, Jan 10, 2015
    #73
  14. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Be a good idea to keep that original sprocket assembly as a reference for the correct sizes.
     
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    maelstrom, Jan 10, 2015
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  15. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Yeh I ordered a kit from slipstream, they say the standard is 55t and my rear has 56t. I don't think 1 tooth is going to make much of a difference. I asked them to double check the sprocket though, mine looks like the "520 conversion" front sprocket (whatever that is) than the "original" JT sprocket.
     
    Joker, Jan 10, 2015
    #75
  16. Revolver

    Revolver Big Member Premium Member

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    I went 55, equals about a 200RPM drop in revs at 100k's. Not alot when your looking at a bike that revs to 20,000RPM. Only a 1% drop. Wish I had gone 53. And a bit more gearing on the front to drop the revs a bit more. As I do mostly highway work.
     
    Revolver, Jan 10, 2015
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  17. Grasshopper

    Grasshopper Well-Known Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Grasshopper, Jan 10, 2015
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  18. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Ok if it's just the car stuff you can use that's easy enough. I thought there had to be some sort of special motorcycling coolant or something.
     
    Joker, Jan 10, 2015
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  19. Grasshopper

    Grasshopper Well-Known Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Yes, I went 55 as well... 56 wasn't avail... I might get 53 too down the track for those longer journeys....

    Nope, as far as I know it's all the same stuff...
     
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    Grasshopper, Jan 10, 2015
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  20. Revolver

    Revolver Big Member Premium Member

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    Nup, all cooling system's are the same in their function.

    Thats what so great about auto mobiles and such. I call it "The Universal Physics of Mechanics" as in all the basic principles apply from vespa's to CAT 797B's.
     
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    Revolver, Jan 10, 2015
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