Stu's Fizzer

Thanks guys. Sounds like it's going to need to be somewhere between 2 and 3 turns so what better way to start than smack in the middle? Hopefully this sees some improvement.

 

Well... 2.5 turns on each carb and she's a LOT better at the stop/start. after a 15 minute run she didn't stop once and apart from the infrequent pop (still running a bit rich I reckon) the rev range is very good and boy am I loving this.

One more carby-related thing probably, but she's a bit rougher at idle now. Not jumping up and down the rev range significantly, but she's lost the smoothness of the idle. Not sure what to do with that. Given that and the popping I'm wondering if I should go up a notch on the needles. Any thoughts guys? I want to work with one thing at a time though, makes it easier... do I need to revisit the pilot screws again perhaps?

Cheers

 

G'day guys.. Failed the RW with some BS things that I kind of expected, none the less I need to source a couple of parts. At a stab, does someone have the following spares:

1. Fairing grommit (left hand side, centre of fairing with insert)
2. Rear shock. They reckon it's leaking I reckon they're full of it, but anyway may as well try a quick fix if I can pick up a second hand one. Apparently it's "not rebuildable" until they "convert it". Whatever that means, wanting $200 to do it which is a bit of a laugh.
3. Rear shock bump stop. I didn't even know to look for this. How irritating.
4. A rear brake disc. Apparently mine is "under minimum thickness". I wonder if they used a ruler or a caliper.

Also anyone know any quick fixes for:

1. Missing fairing lugs (the plastic bits on the rear fairing that pop into the rubber holes in the frame)
2. The horn not "sounding right"? It works, it sound a bit weak I suppose but it still works.

Ultimately I'm under some time pressure so I realise I can get new parts but hoping someone can expedite some second hand ones or give me some quick fix ideas.

Yeh bit cheezed off but I suppose if that's the worst of it I'll just swallow my pride and get it done.

 

Also... If someone wanted to LEND me a rear shock so I can pass the RW I'll freight it back to you with enough for a 6 pack for your troubles. Once it's regoed I can take as long as I want to fix stuff.

 

You guys rock, I just need it to pass so I can take my sweet ass time fixing these little bits up.

The guys are nongheads (I can think of a million other less polite ways to put it). They said it was missing a fairing bolt so they would have failed it anyway. I asked how that constituted a failure, they said "it's not to manufacturers spec" so I said "what if I tuned the engine outside of manufacturers spec, are you going to test it on a Dyno for a RW"? Didn't have much to say after that. I also told them it is low on fuel and needs to be run in reserve, they said it "cut out several times while riding" and then proceeded to tell me they've been riding 40+ years and they know what they're doing. So irritating. /rant

 

They're all pretty Anal unfortunately, it's much of a muchness. If I go somewhere else now they'll probably find something else, at least I have a firm list to work towards.

 

Yeh, I'm holding back giving them a blasting because they probably get it all the time and are likely to be less cooperative if I do.

Most of the stuff is easy enough to fix, so it's not all bad. It's the shock I was a bit surprised at the most, and this mysterious "bump stop".

 

Any other FZR owners want a new rear brake disc? $US28 from china with free postage, I can bring a couple in and ship local if need be.

 

Hmm... They look exactly the same with $100 difference in the price tag. I'm betting they are exactly the same...

 

Dunno dude, I'd be willing to bet metalgear are importing them from china and slapping a 400%+ profit margin onto it with the "australia premium price tag" excuse.

A lot of parts are made in Thailand, Bangaladesh, India, China....

I'm happy to wait 3 weeks if it saves me a hundy. But I probably wouldn't buy chinese brake pads to suit.