replaced sparkplugs, bike wont start

If your 100% sure you installed the spark plugs correctly then we'll assume the plugs aren't the issue.
The next things on the list would be the spark leads, so take them off again and make sure you've got them on in the correct order. That said, a single click from the starter motor sounds to me like your battery is out of charge. Check those spark leads then give it a try roll starting it.

 

I gess you did use the right plug's and ther not to long?

 

Check the battery.

 

Whilst yes you can hook it up to the car battery in parallel to your bike battery to start it, have you tried roll starting it yet?
Roll starting is something they should teach you when you get your learners permit! Incase your not sure how to do it... i'll give you a quick lesson on how i was taught to do it (then how i actually do it). This is assuming your not at the top of a hill and can only find flat road.

1. Put the bike in neutral, kickstand up, and ignition and key switched on. Start running with the bike.
2. Jump on the bike when it's moving at a decent pace, clutch in, pop it into first and release the clutch quickly but smoothly.
3. If she fires up, then clutch in again immediately and give it a bit of a rev to be sure you've got it running smoothly. If she doesn't fire up but just gives a bit of a cough and you grind to a halt very quickly; then you were either not running fast enough or you might want to try second gear instead of first.

How i really do it...
1. Bike in second gear, clutch in, kickstand up, ignition and key on.
2. Start running.
3. Release the clutch smoothly but quickly and get ready to jump on if she fires up. If she doesn't fire, repeat process from step 1. <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->

For REALLY stubborn bikes it can help when using the first method to stand on the pegs once you've got the bike rolling and jump so your weight places extra force on the rear wheel just as your release the clutch. That bits a little difficult to explain until you've seen someone do it.

 

If bike batteries are anything like car batteries(which i think they are), they can just give in at any moment, once they get a bit old. one thing i have learned with cars is to ALWAYS CHECK THE BATTERY FIRST!!!!! and do it yourself, see it with your own eyes. i have changed over a starter motor in a car, and it was only the battery packing it in. <!-- s:sniper: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_snipersmilie.gif" alt=":sniper:" title="Sniper" /><!-- s:sniper: --> <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_mad.gif" alt="" title="Mad" /><!-- s --> <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_mad.gif" alt="" title="Mad" /><!-- s --> <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_mad.gif" alt="" title="Mad" /><!-- s --> . needless to say they got an earful. hope this helps.

 

Thats why i was keen to see if it would run after a roll start.
From the information thats been given, it makes a single click when the starter button is thumbed. Is that click like a relay clicking, or like a metal on metal click?
Other things that spring to mind are to do with the spark plugs and compression... but i won't scare you for now. If you've had a go and can't get it running then you might be right - time for the mechanic.

 

okay...two obvious places are:

1. The click is the starter solinoid engageing, which will normally happen even if the battery is really flat, as it takes stuff all energy to activate. Its the actual turning over of the starter moter (which happens a nano-second after the solinoid click) that does not happen due to it needing heaps of power to run.

To test this just try jump starting it. Normally it will jump start okay - even with the original battery still in place, but after that it may just die once the jumper cables are removed depending upon the state of the battery.

2. A cylinder is locked up solid...Sounds impossible I know but on my bike one of the floats was buggered and stayed open resulting in the entire cylinder filling with petrol and hydrolocking the engine. Had to wait until morning for the gas to all drain away before she would even turn over. The symptom was exactly the same as yours.

More likely there is something dropped into the cylinder while you were working on the bike and has now wedged solid. You can test for this by seeing if the engine will turn over with the spark plugs removed and in say 2nd or 3rd gear - just push it to see if it rolls forward (you should hear hissing or puffing as the air is pushed out of the cylinders.

If this is the case then try rocking back and forth while in gear...it may work but odds on you will have to remove the heads to do a clean up.

Hope this helps.


(Oh...finally and really simpley...check the battery and starter cables for a good conection...loosen them, clean em and re-tighten them...often a dodgey connection will give the same symptom your getting.)

 

did you put that new battery in?
pretty sure from what you've said that if you just get a new battery (not that expensive) and make sure its charged (when i bought my battery for the fzr i actually had to put the acid in myself and charge it up) your bike would start fine.
sometimes even roll starting it won't work if the battery is too flat. the ignition system uses residual battery power to fire the plugs at low revs so if the battery is a dud it will struggle to run at all.

 

well i was wrong. not the first time mind you <!-- s:roll: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_roll.gif" alt=":roll:" title="Rolling LoL" /><!-- s:roll: -->

 

here's my 2 cents worth

it's an earth problem, check the earth connection from the battery to where it connects.

 

Tell you what..... take the plugs out and try and start the bike. I know, I know, It isn't going to start, but it will turn over. Something Koma said about plug length has been nagging at me. Oh, and BTW the plugs aren't numbered for order, instead it referes to a number of things including but not limited to: heat range, electrode type, threads, resistor and so forth , but the plug wires are numbered (atleast on my bike they are).

This will also eliminate 2 things, battery and plug length. Then we can move on to compression, spark, and fuel/air.