MC22 Track Ready Project

the blue fox is the same is the N&L model from what I can see. That thread about the blue fox with the genius's mapping the bluefox didn't get the initial facts straight about the timing advance for the L and N model and compared the blue fox cdi against a restricted model which is the exact same cure but with the restriced 20o BTDC hence why the results are so similar.
To be honest if all they wanted to do was advance the timing they should have just modified the reluctors.
I think even the L model starts to shut off power at a certain rpm above 15k before it redlines at 17.5 or whatever the true red line is.
But the only true legitimate HRC equipment for the mc14e engine was for the cbr250rfour which was a jet kit including 2 short velocity stacks (go me for figuring that out before they told me) a HRC 4-2-1 exhaust with a shorty and the cdi and harness.

 

side note the cdi looks nothing like those white print ##c hrc "dont use for stree" cdi's which are fake as far as Im concerned. The harness is special and you cant plug the cdi directly into one of our harnesses.

 

heres a photo without the harness in the picture

 

Theres more but yeah the kit for the stock cbr250rf's was called the sp kit

 

I wouldnt mind upgrade from 2 piston either way haha
heres a nice cheap solution, just throw my current braided on.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-NS...-MASTER-CYLINDER-ORIGINAL-HOSES-/271477328769

 

So after much research I worked out what the original restricted cdi is and then what the part number is for the original "hrc cdi" that took a long time and it is indeed the one in that photo I put up above and its actually kind of funny how the photo is in black and white. Anyway through that I found out that the unrestricted cdi is quite easy to obtain.
Only problem is even if you own/get one there is still a VERY complicated secret to unlock the full power which was posted in certain issues of hrc tuning manuals/mags which is pretty much non existent now.
A theory I came to a while back with the need for the HRC harness and "certain other parts" that comes separate from the cdi made me think about along the lines of the secret (but in a way that would actually give me a more negative result) before I even found out.
However turns out a dude had to do a work around because the harnesses sold out, but he had the tuning mag and the cdi. Thankfully he provided the full algorithm and his journey on the internet (in Japanese).
anyway, turns out from some point in the production of the mc17H and all the way to the end of the mc22N they are all a copy of the original HRC model which is probably why there is so many different opinions floating around and different myths which are all partly true. But unless you have the harness and certain other parts or work it out you will just get a fairly average experience (still better than the restricted model though).
Honda are tricky and its a very sick sense of humor how they hid this restriction.

 

actually no I'm wrong again is more complicated.
anyway I am just going to tell you the secret you can choose to believe it or ignore it.
The way to restricted the mc22 (i thought the l+n worked the same way as the earlier models but they dont)
You actually have the use the vfr and rvf cdi in the mc22.
Now the reason why the "unrestricted" i thought were fake cdi's are labeled with the c at the end is because they actually correlate to the vrf and rvf's real name, the nc30 and nc35 but you have to get a jap spec nc30 or nc35 rvf or vrf cdi for it to work.
There is a colour code depending on what the model of the colour of the bike is vs the voltage and resistance values that need to be sent to the cd for it to be unrestricted.
The K versions from some other cdi are then used the the rvf and vrf to derestric them.
Anyway for the mc22 here is the algorithm, there is still more secrets but I think its possible that only certain models e.g. most likely the L model actually have power that can be brought out in the bike. Kind of like how its saying below that the K models of the RVF are actually 450cc.
I still need to researtch this further but I will work it out.

No.TypeModel YearModel NameYear CodeModel CodeArea CodeColor CodeColor(s)Beg. Engine #Beg. Frame #

Carb ID #​

111989VFR400R3KNC30JapanNH196KRoss white/Fighting red/Wisteria blueNC13E-1200001NC30-1000001VDE3A-A
221989VFR400R3-IIKNC30Japan2NH259HAccurate (seed) silver/Granite blueNC13E-1200001NC30-1000001VDE3A-A
341990VFR400R3LNC30JapanNH196HRoss white/Fighting red/Dakar blueNC13E-1300001NC30-1050001VDE3D-A
451990VFR400RLNC30JapanNH177HVostok silver/Granite blueNC13E-1300001NC30-1050001VDE3D-A
561990VFR400RLNC30JapanNH1KBlack/Monza redNC13E-1300001NC30-1050001VDE3D-A
341990VFR400RLNC30U.K.NH196KRoss white/Fighting red/Wisteria blueNC13E-2100007NC30-2000006VDE3B-A
341990VFR400RLNC30AustriaNH196KRoss white/Fighting red/Wisteria blueNC13E-2100009NC30-2000009VDE3C-A
341991VFR400RMNC30U.K.NH196HRoss white/Fighting red/Dakar blueNC13E-2200001NC30-2100001VDE3F-A
341991VFR400RMNC30AustriaNH196HRoss white/Fighting red/Dakar blueNC13E-2200006NC30-2100006VDE3G-A
341991VFR400RMNC30FranceNH196HRoss white/Fighting red/Dakar blueNC13E-220000?NC30-210000?VDE3?-?
341991VFR400RMNC30GermanyNH196HRoss white/Fighting red/Dakar blueNC13E-220000?NC30-210000?VDE3?-?
671992VFR400R3NNC30JapanNH196HRoss white/Fighting red/(Dakar blue?)NC13E-1400001NC30-1100001VDE3D-B
781992VFR400R3-IINNC30Japan2NH1KBlack/Fighting redNC13E-1400001NC30-1100001VDE3D-B
891992VFR400R3-IIINNC30Japan3NH196KRoss white/Fighting redNC13E-1400001NC30-1100001VDE3D-B
891992VFR400R3-IVNNC30Japan4NH196KRoss white/Fighting redNC13E-1400001NC30-1100001VDE3D-B​

Notes:
These specifications pertain mainly to the UK-spec "L" and "M" models; some J-spec differences are noted.

1. J-spec "K" models are equipped with Showa damping rod forks and are not equipped with a remote reservoir rear shock.
2. For "K" models, fork oil level is 90mm and fork oil capacity is 450cc.
3. J-spec is 12v 60/35w.
4. J-spec is 12v 5/18w.
5. N/A to J-spec bikes.
6. J-spec is 12v 1.7w.
7. J-spec is 12v 15w.

​

 

they did all sort of wierd tricks to stop people outside of japan to de restrict like plug colour codes


cdi codes, this guy is using an rvf with the "K" model cdi that came from the cbr250rk.


I have also seen photos of people using the cbr400 cdi in the mc22 and then using 13.something vaults with some other ohm and capacitance combination to de restrict his mc22.

 

"BATT: 12.54V AC generator: 0.2Omu (0.2 ～ 1.0Omu) 6P coupler yellow / blue - black / white: 2.5Ω (2.5 ~ 3.5Ω) blue / yellow - black / white: 2.5Ω (2.5 ~ 3.5Ω) 4P coupler (pulse generator) yellow - white / yellow: 401Ω (450 ~ 550Ω) blue - white / blue: 405Ω (450 ~ 550Ω) between the plug cap F: 24.1Keiomega (14 ～ 25Keiomega) R: 24.0Keiomega (14 ～ 25Keiomega) is the resistance value of the pulse generator was unmarked
(T_T"

this is also the reason why they changed the colours, why some of the original plates are removed, why vins are scratched off etc etc. There is an exact algorithm with year, colours and plug colours and part numbers that all need to be right for the cdi.

 

"
A result of measuring the mine, between the cap → cap also approximately the same as the sum of the single article, it was within the range described in service manual. ■ NC30 high tension cap resistance values (those that had been used up to now) 3075X-MR8-000 A1 1: 4.51Keiomega B1 2: 5.38KeiomegaA2 3: 4.83Keiomega B2 4: 4.88Keiomega ignition coil resistance value 30510-KT7-013 (things have been used up to now) - F1: 2.8Omu B3 F2: 14.18Keiomega - R1: 2.8Omu A3 R2: 14.10Keiomega total valueA1 Tasu A2 Tasu A3 = 23.44Keiomega B1 Tasu B2 Tasu B3 = 24.44Keiomega then, high I went to order the tension cap ASSY but, # 3 was that with prove to be the production end of this leave without stock.In the alternative, Toka general-purpose products, Toka of other vehicles of the L-shaped, I was thinking what to do, because I had a painful thought by using the general-purpose products previously, have been ordered # 4 two year. It is unlikely in the design that are changing the resistance value by the length of the code, is scheduled to be used in tricks. Spare NC35 also I had to for, the difference is the mounting position of the F coil, the length of the code (short compared with for 30) it is also different but it is do. Resistance values are almost the same way as for 30, but do not use this time in There are a variety of translation. ■ NC35 high tension cap resistance value 3075x-MR8-900 (new) A1 1: 5.67Keiomega B1 2: 4.90Keiomega A2 3: 5.04Keiomega B2 4: 5.28Keiomega ignition coil resistance value 30510-KT7-023 (new) - F1: 2.7Omu B3 F2: 14.00Keiomega - R1: 2.7Omu A3 R2: 13.97Keiomegatotal value A1 Tasu A2 Tasu A3 = 24.68Keiomega B1 Tasu B2 Tasu B3 = 24.18Keiomega on the right side of the body, placed spark unit, the battery, the starter relay want did. "

 

of speed in the CBR250RR idling anxiety constant ,,

Slow-of CBR250RR reblogged repair will differ!
It was confirmed to decompose and remove the cab, but normally a clean especially without problem ,,
Until a little before the ordinary was running bike is because I ,,
Was washed various parts incidentally was the time being decomposition!
In ,, then thought was the fuel cock and fuel hose , a negative pressure hose ,,
Use drip to try engine start-up ,, symptoms was the same ,,
Air cleaner was also cleaning!
Fuel system will be OK with the ,, next electrical system? ?
Control voltage is ,, regulator without problem Nde there 13.5v ~ 14v had been replaced with heat measures goods!
Coil tester When measured by connecting 4 shots together cheerfully spark had been too!
The exhaust gas temperature is only one cylinder slightly lower ,,
Anyway spark plug also symptoms to replace the four with a new one the same feeling ,,,
In coil of the ground shoddy wiring in line construction wiring it is has been branching ,,
And traced it ,, meter ,, which has arrived in limiter cut made outside of the back over
Such Nde shoddy wiring ,, hate earth reworked line ,, limiter cut was removed!
Then ,,, revolutions rise and so has returned to feel good! !
Erroneous external limiter cut working? ? ? Such wonder if? ?
For now now now it is the revolutions rise good ,,

 

obviously dont take any of the above as fact, all i am saying is it is said there is an electrical calculation to derest said unknow cdis and there is more than meets the eye.

 

Okay bits have arrive next step:

0.88mm gapped stock plugs


105 new main jets for centre two carbs


Short velocity stacks, slightly knocked about, tried to fix but dunno if I improved or made worse. Either way hopefully its not that bigger deal I wouldn't know. Where you see nicks/scratches have been polished and feel smooth but yeah I really wouldn't know how much impact the imperfections have.

 

Okay so yesterday while I was at work I was thinking about bikes bikes bikes bikes bikes all day long and decided there was no way in the world that I would let anything stop me from doing my mission!

Now the mission involved:
rewiring parts of the ignition
installing velocity stacks
105 main jets in the middle
spark plug change
1 3/4 turns EXACT on the pilot screws

So I got home at 6:20pmish and it was already dark but I ran up stairs tried to conjure up a portable soldering iron with a paper clip and a lighter, and my phone had about 80% battery.
Ran back down stairs and started to pull apart the bike as quick as I could because 80% battery on my phone wasn't going to last.

The first thing I needed to tackle was the ignition wiring, I cut some wires, removed a resistor and attempted to get my kill switch back in the mix so the bike was wired to stock wiring before my whole kill switch ordeal.
after cutting the wires and lining everything up my portable soldering iron "lighter and paper clip" wasnt going to work due to the wind and I burnt my self a couple of times before realizing that it was stupid and not going to work. So I ended up stripping the wires of all the connections i needed to do and twisting them together so they wouldn't come apart before I can solder them properly. Put the problem wire in the pigtail of the killswitch black and white, and in the pigtail of where the coils connect black and white and then finally twisted it in with where I twisted the black and white at the cdi. Wasn't sure if it was going to work being that I removed my old dodgy wire from cdi to fuse 1 bypass.

Next was the velocity stacks that went well but a massive spider almost got me when I was grabbing the replacement velocity stacks from my bag, I killed that bastard, I killed it good.


Next was the pilot jets 1 3/4 turns this time I was prepared with a fat black marker to make sure it was perfect.
That was done pretty quick.

Then the nightmare started to happen.
Just as I took the photo for jets and the gasket change on the carbs my phone died.





Now I don't know if there is some voodoo you guys use to keep the gasket on when trying to put the carbs back together but that was an Fing! nightmare in the dark... I probably spent like 30mins alone trying to make sure I put it back together properly with the replacement gaskets.
From here everything was done in pitch black, feeling around stealth mechanics. Now I gave up on the idea of testing parts with my volt meter to check everything was in spec and changing the spark plugs and decided to re assemble the bike.
Took off the front wind shield to get easy access to kill switch pig tail and put the wire in the black and white when closing it.

Then the moment of truth, went to start the bike and with the billion things that could have gone wrong. It started perfectly and it would appear that Murphy approves of blind mechanics.

There was no way I wasn't testing the new setup! So I got my helmet and went for a good 30 min random ride.

Result, well any normal person would be very very happy. But for me I can tell the whole mix is a tad rich and I wish I could somehow make everything slightly leaner with out having to change anything with the carbs. I REALLY don't want to change the air filter but I'm left with no choice, I am just going to try a slightly more free flowing filter like the uni filter maybe and compare.

Ignition wise I really need to check the specs of my battery, primary and secondary coils, firing order, plugs+gap and pickup because something isn't right, not sure how to explain it but I feel like the spark is getting weak in the high revs and it doesn't perform how it used to in the high rev range when I first got the bike. Being that I know the fuel air is practically perfect there has to be something wrong on the ignition side of things, perhaps the battery needs replacing but will confirm on weekend.

The end.