OK guys This is a simple step by step howto for doing the valve clearances. Tools I assume you have already: Good quality set sockets, with a screwdriver handle for 1/4" drive sockets as this gives more feel than with a ratchet bar. You'll likely also need a 3/8" drive -> 1/4" socket adapter for the 8mm bolts on the cam retainer shells. Good quality set of allen keys or socket equivalents. Tools you'll need past what you may already have in your possession: Decent quality set of feeler gauges - cheap ones I had were approximately 0.02-0.03mm too thick over the 0.1mm range. Good quality torque wrench which goes down as low as 7.2 ft/lb - You can get them even at Bunnings 3/8" drive Kinchrome ~$80. I consider this compulsory. Some molybdenum disulphide grease - I've already got some LMM CV joint grease on hand. I removed the engine, to clean it and the surrounding frame areas. I'm going to assume you're up to already having removed the rocker cover and the stator cover. TDC = Top dead centre BDC - bottom dead centre Both these terms are usually used in relation to cylinder one - TDC used alone is usually a reference to Cylinder one firing. Note: the firing sequence is #1 -> #2 -> #4 -> #3 Cylinders are 1-4 left to right , sitting on the bike First step is to measure the actual clearances. I marked the stator with a thick black sharpie to make it easy to see the 0 and 180 degree points. I also marked the inside of the stator with the cylinders which are at top dead centre for each 180 degree rotation on the inside. You can make out the rotation direction arrow and the TDC - zero marking on the stator and the small zero extrusion on the case. Set the crank to TDC - I had removed the plugs and did all of the rotation by hand so I would feel any resistance later when I'd re-assembled everything. Check the two dots on the cam retainers/shells against the two small holes in the ends of the cams. If you don't see the dots then you are at TDC - cylinder #4 firing. I'll add a close-up photo of this later as I forgot to take it. Note: I've made two versions of the table to keep notes on the clearances depending on which orientation you're working and if the engine is still in the bike. Valve-Clearance-Reverse.pdf is for working with the engine facing you i.e working from the exhaust side Valve-Clearance.pdf is for working from the intake side. Next check your clearances for cylinder #1, work from the lower clearance up. Intake valves cylinder #1: 0.1mm straight single feeler gauge -> 0.05mm + 0.08mm -> 0.1mm + 0.05mm -> 0.1mm + 0.08mm -> 0.2mm - upper limit If you're below minimum, hopefully not, work backwards till you can get a reading. Exhaust valves cylinder #1: 0.2mm straight single feeler gauge -> 0.15mm + 0.08mm -> 0.15mm + 0.1mm -> 0.2mm + 0.08mm -> 0.2mm + 0.1mm - upper limit Now the reason I combined smaller feeler gauges where possible is because the those two will bend easier down into the space past the rocker cover gasket edge on the head. Note the clearance ranges lower limit reading<X<upper limit reading for intake and exhaust on cylinder #1. Rotate the stator 180 degrees so that Cylinder #2 is firing. Take measurements and note your readings. Rotate the stator 180 degrees so that Cylinder #4 is firing. This is TDC - ZERO marking on the stator. Take measurements and note your readings. Rotate the Stator a final 180 degrees so that Cylinder #3 is firing. Take measurements and note your readings.