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Electric Issues? - and oil

Discussion in 'FZR250.com - Archives' started by Casso, Aug 23, 2005.

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  1. Casso

    Casso New Member

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    the second link was updated in 2002
     
    Casso, Aug 25, 2005
    #21
  2. Boz

    Boz New Member

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    Summary (so far...):
    first number = cold weight
    second number = warm weight

    Friction modifiers = bad for bikes (may not be as bad for bikes with dry clutches though...)

    Regardless of quality - regular oil (and filter) changes will keep your bike healthy longer. The tendency is the cheaper the oil the more changes required.
     
    Boz, Aug 26, 2005
    #22
  3. Liamo

    Liamo New Member

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    im using Fuchs Silkolene Fully Synthetic Racing oil @ €13~ a litre and i still change oil and filter every 3000kms, am i crazy?
     
    Liamo, Aug 26, 2005
    #23
  4. biglez

    biglez New Member

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    Yes <!-- s:D --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D -->
     
    biglez, Aug 26, 2005
    #24
  5. TBone

    TBone New Member

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    No

    but expensive... I use Motul 5100 in all bikes...
     
    TBone, Aug 26, 2005
    #25
  6. TiMBuS

    TiMBuS New Member

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    What do you mean by 'weight'?
    This doesn't apply for a rare few cases, but generally most things get lighter when heated. Is this the actual oil weight or some optimal setting for the bike or rating or.. Or. Um... Well I dunno but now I'd really like to know if oil really does get heavier when heated.

    Has chemistry been a lie right up to this shocking realisation??
    WHY HAS CHEMISTRY LIED TO ME BOZ!?!?
     
    TiMBuS, Sep 20, 2005
    #26
  7. TBone

    TBone New Member

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    oh the weight thing... very confusing... I think the FZR uses 10W30? (i'll have to check) but it works very well with 10W40 and in warmer climates you can use 15W40...
     
    TBone, Sep 20, 2005
    #27
  8. Boz

    Boz New Member

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    For oil terminology - weight = viscosity. See <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm">http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm</a><!-- m --> (I like this site, simple answers) or <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html">http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html</a><!-- m --> (section 3).

    The answer:
    "The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques."

    So chemistry didn't lie - the SAE did when they assigned arbitrary numbers to represent viscosity and then call that weight.
     
    Boz, Sep 21, 2005
    #28
  9. TiMBuS

    TiMBuS New Member

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    yay for howstuffworks.com

    so a 10W40 oil is a 10 'weight' oil that acts like a 40 'weight' oil when hot - so it doesn't get thicker or 'heavier', but it sort of retains its thickness when heat is applied.

    Damn thats pretty confusing for just a label on a motor oil.. I can imagine a salesman trying to explain it to someone XD

    EDIT: yeah, i can see it was explained above.. but the word 'weight' confused me.
     
    TiMBuS, Sep 21, 2005
    #29
  10. adjudrey

    adjudrey New Member

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    i'm planning to change oil . . . plan to use 10/40 semi synthetic oil. .

    bad idea (semi-synth oil) ? <!-- s:???: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_confused.gif" alt=":???:" title="Confused" /><!-- s:???: -->
     
    adjudrey, Sep 23, 2005
    #30
  11. Starter

    Starter New Member

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    Torque is what burns out clutches. You have none - therefore use Castrol GTX 20W50 and you'll be fine. Just change the filter cause that is what really gets worn out. If your really worried use Castrol GTX Diesel version, it has more buffer capacity and is cheaper.
     
    Starter, Sep 23, 2005
    #31
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