Electric Issues? - and oil

The rapidly flashing indicator is because of the LED front indicators (or atleast they look like LED replacements). It also happens if you use a smaller bulb than stock. For all intents and purposes - it's normal.

As for the oil, as you've just got the bike id recommend taking it to a mechanic and getting the works done on it; full service & fluids flush (oil, brakes, coolant, etc etc etc).

If you want to DIY i'd still recommend doing a full oil change including filter. If you do change the filter you'll need 2.2L of your favourite oil (not changing filter it's just 2.0L); best off getting something like a 10w40 or 10w50 semi-synthetic bike oil. There's plenty of threads around so SEARCH is your friend.

Just thought of something, just checking you know exactly how to check the oil level. The bike needs to be on level flat ground and then stood up vertical to the point of balancing - THEN look through the sight glass on the side of the sump. If your new to it then i'd highly recommend getting a friend to sit on the bike and get it vertical to avoid dropping the bike.

PS. I've seen the photo's of that bike before... on this site i think!

 

DID you put in 2stroke oil into your engine?? which 2stroke oil?? the one for the engine (the oil the 2sroke needs to blend withthe fuel) or the gear box oil?? Eather way if you did that I would NOT recomend you use it today to get to work and get some one to transport it to the mechanic where I would explain to the the mechanic what has happened...

The gear oil for the 2stroke is not designed to be used a lubricant for engines as there are different forces involved as well as the whole issue with pistons and cylinders...

The 2stroke engine oil is designed to BURN with the fuel mixture most modern 2strokes have their oil injected into the engine where they mix with the fuel...

Eather way buy puting 2stroke oil of any sort in a 4 stroke shared gearbox engine arrangement (most bikes) could result in some damage!!

 

I don't think he/she was a member of this forum. That bike was posted a while back though because someone liked the paint job and decals on it. Nice looking bike though.

And I agree with t-bone on the oil... change ASAP.

 

I suspect you were late for work this morning. If you wasn't, DONT ride that bike no more. Not even to the mechanic. Get it picked up by a truck or something.[/b]

 

Oh my, you've made a job out of that one, if you used that
2 stroke oil.

I guess we're all here too live and learn.

 

Ok 2 stroke oil probably wasn’t the best idea, even car oil from the servo would have been better.

As for the history of that bike, it is a bit of a mystery. Only one other member of this forum was from Canberra as far as I know and I haven’t seen it around town before it was listed for on bikesales. Looks like it was only painted fairly recently so it could have been any of the fizzers about town.

Do you live in Canberra or did you send it interstate? I buy my oil from Canberra motorcycle center, they have a stand next to the service reception. I usually go for the shell vsx? 10w50 full synth. I can recommend taking the bike for work at Jo's, most other places in town will try to rip you off. They even bought a smashed up 3ln because I keep turning up.

 

its somethin to do with the "weight" of the oil appearantly, but i havnt got a clue what that means

 

I just got my PC rebuilt and I did't back up my bookmarks.... I had a link to a super websight that explained oils... and oils for motorbikes!! It even listed tests and how oil brands compare...

I use MOTUL, the only other oil I would use (and it is actualy better quality) is MOBIL.. Shell from my personal expiriance and reaserch I have read is adiquate lubrication?? the difference b/w Shell and Motul is fenomenal... you can realy feel it when riding...

 

Shell VSX 4 fully synthetic 15w50.

That's what I use. Works like a charm

 

... my bad.
I'll get onto that as soon as i get this uni work outta the way. <!-- s:zzz: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sleeping.gif" alt=":zzz:" title="Sleeping" /><!-- s:zzz: -->

 

Car oil is only bad if it has friction modifiers in it. These are good for modern cars, but bad for bikes (can cause things like clutch slippage etc.). So you can buy car oil if it says no friction modifiers (usually it will say whether it does have friction modifiers in it, not whether it doesn't - if it doesn't say anything then it may be good...)

As for weight of oil - check out <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm">http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm</a><!-- m --> - I love the 'how stuff works' page. Answers lots of questions relatively simply. May not give the details but will give basic ideas.

 

Good set of links - thanks for those!


The first one has the key point of saying "Another component is emergency lubricants. This is typically zinc, phosphorous, and molybdenum. These chemicals are present in case your oil film completely breaks down, due to extreme temperatures or pressures. These chemicals are supposed to be a last resort defense against metal to metal contact in your engine. Oil companies are cutting back on phosphorous as these metals are hard on your catalytic converters. They're substituting molybdenum disulfide, which lowers friction and improves gas mileage. It also causes problems for people with wet clutches, that is most motorcycles."

 

20W50 oil no matter what they are for will not have friction modifiers in them - its in the standards that they do not have energy conserving additives.

There is nothing wrong with quality brand cheap oil. Just change it often and always with a filter cause it is the filter that is the limiting factor of oil life in any vehicle.

20W is for the cold weight, 50 is for the hot wieght.