So after copping allot of crap about the across from my friends who own a cbr500r and an MT-07. After taking down the 500r in a few 0-100 off the lights the MT-07 owner wanted to see how close my bike would come. The first race we had 0-100 I lost by about 2 bike lengths but I had a really bad start and thought to myself this might actually be possible. The second time I rev'd up to 12 and practically dumped the clutch, the bike did a teeny tiny wheelie and I actually took him down by about a bike length he says. His MT-07 has a full exhaust system too, we were both shocked at the power of this RR because his MT is close to brand new. Whats tripping me out is the bike seems to be able to rev past 20 and how quick it goes from 14k to past 20k is astonishing. Very curious to get the bike dyno'd
Please dont rev past 20k, all the peak power is achieved at 16000 RPM, then it drops off, you are better off grabbing another gear. If you keep hit 20k on the tacho, it wont be long before you are back on your Across
I agree with kiffsta, the one thing that tends to be forgotten with these bikes is that they have "history" and it's all the unknown's that can create carnage. 20 to 25 years on god only knows these machines have been through and having seen what damage can occur when revving them to 20k +.........well you just don't want to know! Peak power comes in way bellow the redline.......something to think about. Think you are correct............dyno will show exactly where you are at, enjoy the ride
The MT-07 is a twin cyl engine. My Ninja 250R had way more torque in the low rev range which was good for low speed riding (traffic etc) but the FZR has more peak power and almost double the max engine RPM, and is 4 cylinders. But the MT-07 is 660cc and fuel injected.
I was looking at the website and it was saying that its not compatible with capacitor discharge? Was your old track bike CDI???
Ahh right i just looked in comparability page and it does list cbr250rr. I hope its as easy to install as you say HAHAHA.
FYI, my ZXR250 also revs to 20,000rpm, but I never intentionally go anywhere near that when dragging. Changing at 18,000rpm should be just about right. You'll actually go a little quicker as long as the revs don't drop below peak power level. If you're clutch-less changing, you might even get away with 17,000rpm changes. I will have to get a CBR250RR at some stage...I suspect they're a little quicker than the ZXR250
None of these bikes are capacitor discharge (CDI). Nice article here http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Ignition/CDI.html Load squares at the speed. For a simple example, let's imagine that the value of the factors involved in the calculation of the load on your connecting rod before inputting the rpm was one 0.01 unit. Thus, at 16000 rpm, the value that Kiffsta suggested, the load will be equal to 2,560,000 units (being 16000 squared * 0.01), at 20,000 rpm, your shift point, the load will be equal to 4,000,000 units. So that 4000 rpm difference has increased the load on the engine by 56%.
My misses has a zxr250c that's in really good shape and recently tuned by a mech (carbies cleaned and tuned ect) its in stock condition. They are both great bikes. my cbr is faster than her zxr but her breaks are better, USD forks is not to be ignored either.
When your friend with the MT-07 is laughing at your 250 ask him what this is . . . Don't tell me, I know, it is the new fashion. We have to have a MotoGP style seat and make it stick up in the air as much as possible so you look "streetfighterish" (I crashed my bike and cannot afford a fairing). Then tack on bits of plastic and stuff to cover up other bits and pieces and paint it black so it is bitchin. Just need some skulls and stuff now.
Oh his not laughing now lol, who could laugh after their 12,000$ 650cc bike being beaten by a 3700$ 250cc bike. The guy is eating humble pie atm.
Wait missed this "If you're clutch-less changing" ???? You can do that!? Does it hurt the bike ect ect? tell me more!
The gears line themselves up and with a little back off of the throttle while applying pressure to the shifter it will go into the next gear. Of performed correctly there should be little to no extra wear.