Help CBR250rr project - pilot screw setting

So number 1, is the same screw that attaches to the idle speed cable. Number 2 is the carb next to 1 on the outer side. 3 is the other carb next to 1 with 4 being on the outer side of 3.
You obviously need to adjust it in that order setting 1 to have the butterfly just covering the small holes in the carb.

However not being able to go over 30k's sounds extreme, if you are finding the revs are being limited after 2-3k rpm that is what the speed restrict or does in the tci when it is not getting the 3.3k ohms resistance from the speedometer.

 

I think he was saying that he changed the parts Kiffsta said already and just can't get the butterfly's in the carbs to open equally.
However the "can't go over 30kph" isn't usually related to the pilot screws or butterfly's being slightly wrong.
But that's making the assumption that he just whacked them on the engine with an already close to stock configuration.

I was already strongly under another assumption that he was following the forum notes that show up in google search results pertaining to mc19 engine in mc22 swap over which does cover the need to change the reluctor/spark rotor/sensor trigger/little pointy star thing.

But if memory serves me correctly from when I read it yonks ago the author didn't cover if the spark rotor differed between the L/N model to the later restricted R model.

The reason I think it might be different is because the L/N models spark timing is 24o BTDC and the R model is 20o and even though I'm convinced the cdi's are different between all the models I'm not convinced the spark rotors are the same just because of that. Not that I think that's relevant to his current problem.

But if he didn't change the pickup sensor along with the spark rotor that would likely result in such poor performance. If that's not the problem and he changed it as he says he has then the problem is likely to be electrical if the carbs are clean and the engine isn't f'd.

But yeah I agree with Maelstrom, to take on such a project with what would seem a basic knowledge and optimism was a bit over zealous (not that I can talk as I have done stupider things).

@Mar7inez13 is English you primary language? Or a second language? If you need help fixing the problem we are going to need more details, to ask a bunch of questions that you think the problem is that is covered in the manual e.g. Carb synchronization is going to have us all going in circles.

Explain the following:
1. What is the condition of the mc19 engine, km's, if it was known to be working fine previously etc.
2. Is the bike it's self a full mc22 just apart from the engine including all the standard mc22 electricals (cdi, loom, instrument cluster etc) and are you sure you put the mc22 sensor for the spark rotor in aswell as changing the rotor itself?
3. Are the carbs clean?
4. What happened when you couldn't go past 30kph? And did it start and idle okay?
5. How are the carb boots/rubbers? And did you attach an mc22 exhaust?

You get the idea.

 

Ok I am 100% certain based on your description the speedometer restriction was kicking in causing your problems.
You need to solder a 3.3k ohm resistor between the orange and blue wire to the black and white wire at the cdi and the problem will be fixed. Id even wager 50$ on it. The carbs has nothing to do with it.

 

As shown in this picture.

 

No. Listen carefully. 1. The orange wire gets cut 2. you solder a 3.3k ohm resistor to the orange and blue coming from the cdi 3. you solder the other end of the resistor to the black and white wire, but do not cut the black and white wire just solder the resistor leg to bare wire.

As I say I am 100% positive, the carbs have nothing to do with it. You can send me a 6 pack of Corona's later ^_^.

 

Without a 3.3k ohm resistor it wont work properly.


CDI -> Orange and blue wire -> 3.3k ohm resistor -> black and white wire (un-cut)

 

Basically the TCI has a built in speedometer restriction designed to kick in once your speedometer reaches 180kph.
The sensor and or wiring to the sensor in the speedometer (where the orange a blue goes to) can sometimes fail.

By sending the black and white wire (which is actually just power) through a 3.3kohm resistor to the orange and blue wire leading to the TCI and that amount of resistance (3.3k ohm) from the resistor is the same equivalent to the sensor at the speedometer telling the TCI that you are below 180kph.

What happens when this restriction kicks in is it significantly weakens the spark voltage to the spark plugs the second your revs reach over 6500RPM. Which in first gear would result in the engine sounding like its popping after 30kph as you described.

 

jaycar, 1 watt carbon 3.3k ohm resistor.

 

clogged main jets could cause the problems you are having... did you clear them all out and try again?

Got a bit lost in the various commentaries so trying to keep track of where you got to.

 

you are welcome to pop around to my place with the bike and I will take a look, I am in Birkdale (near Wynnum)