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Project Bens GSX250 Cafe Project

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Ben Mulligan, Nov 14, 2013.

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  1. Ben Mulligan

    Ben Mulligan Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Guys, massive progress today!

    So my first day as a mechanic haha. I pulled off the front sprocket cover, grease city! Then I moved on to the exhaust and they came off smoothly, that old exhaust was literally just hanging together, no welds or permanent fixings. I drained the sump and oil filter as well.

    I moved on to the instrument panel and front lamp, tagging every cable as I went. I bled the brakes and started loosening everything on top. I've only come across 2 stripped screws now (ones on the cloth assembly, annoying) but the rest is pretty smooth. I'm going to need a breaker bar for the brake assembly and the engine bolts.

    Removed the tail and disconnected the air box, stupid f**king thing is stuck in the frame until I remove the carby, and I can't do that until my jerry can turns up, then I can remove the petrol tank and get a lot better access.

    So I'll go to a bolts place and ask for aluminium plated screws? Excellent!!! Thanks
     

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    Ben Mulligan, Nov 17, 2013
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  2. Ben Mulligan

    Ben Mulligan Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Not sure if these cracks are going to be a problem???

    gsx 001 (1).jpg
     
    Ben Mulligan, Nov 17, 2013
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  3. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    No, ZINC plated.
    Are you sure they are cracks, not just casting 'flashing'?
    Sometimes the airbox is the first thing the factories put into the frame when assembling a bike, so the last thing to come out when stripping. Looking good so far.
     
    Murdo, Nov 17, 2013
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  4. Ben Mulligan

    Ben Mulligan Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah, look VERY old and can't be a stress area, its nowhere near the engine mounts. Probably flashing like you say.

    Thanks :D very happy with my first EVER tools day on a vehicle.
     
    Ben Mulligan, Nov 17, 2013
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  5. risky

    risky risky

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    use stainless and no problem, nickel neverseize also recommended.
     
    risky, Nov 17, 2013
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  6. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Heres mine .... if u run your finger over them some are 'raised'

    Youve done well mate ...keep it up! :thumb_ups:

    GSX.jpg
     
    GreyImport, Nov 17, 2013
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  7. Ben Mulligan

    Ben Mulligan Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    How'd you get your engine interiors clean? I have degreaser (but have been told not to use it around the chain) and I have carb cleaner and some wire brushes. Any other tips? (e.g. cylinders, crank, cams etc)
     
    Ben Mulligan, Nov 17, 2013
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  8. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    What chain are you referring to.
     
    Phil, Nov 17, 2013
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  9. Dave H

    Dave H Active Member

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    I'm no metallurgist, just a maintenance fitter for 30 years, where it comes to bolts and screws into aluminium that gets exposed to heat (engine casings etc) I would recommend using "Antiseize" a copper based grease. I used it successfully on machines that constantly ran at 170C. It made bolt removal easy, with no damage to heads or threads.
     
    Dave H, Nov 18, 2013
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  10. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Engine interiors are cleaned with petrol or kerosene. Degreaser was made for removing grease, as found on drive chains. Just dry properly and lube after to prevent rusting.
     
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    Murdo, Nov 18, 2013
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  11. risky

    risky risky

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    nickel based antiseize is dearer but better.
     
    risky, Nov 18, 2013
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  12. Ben Mulligan

    Ben Mulligan Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    So I tapped the engine cover lightly with a hammer (left side) and pulled it away from the magnetic starter and look how clean it is inside!!! Not going to delve deeper I don't think there's any need to because the bike runs well.

    Just going to do the right side cover on the weekend

    Anyone got any tips for removing the back wheel? or removing/cleaning a carburettor?
     

    Attached Files:

    Ben Mulligan, Nov 18, 2013
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  13. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Ben
    Luck is on your side, your bike has a centre stand which makes removal of the rear wheel somewhat easier.
    Undo the nut on the axle, this may require some force as they are generally well secured. Once the nut is nearly off the axle give it a gentle tap with a hammer to start the axle moving, then remove the nut. You may need to get a large screw driver and continue tapping the axle until it is dislodged. With the axle removed push the wheel forward so as to get enough slack to get the chain off the sprocket, you should be able to remove the wheel.
    As for your carbs, have a look at the manual and take guidance from there as they will give advise as to what to do.
    Obviously, it's easier done with the tank removed as you have better access. Not certain if the choke on yours is on the handle bars or directly on the carb. You will need to disconnect throttle cables and perhaps choke before removing the carbs. If you run into trouble, let us know. Good luck.
     
    Phil, Nov 18, 2013
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  14. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    When u remove the axle put all the spacers and washers and nut back on it in the same order so its easier when u reassemble

    Pull off the hub and check the cush rubbers inside
    Pull off the brake drum cover and Im sure it will need cleaning inside and maybe new brake shoes .... they come out easy just by folding them up into the centre .... I imagine its in the manual.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=SUZUKI GSX250 GSX 250 1980 1981 DIRT BIKE REAR BRAKE SHOES&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.XSUZUKI GSX250 BRAKE SHOES&_nkw=SUZUKI GSX250 BRAKE SHOES&_sacat=0

    Check the wheel bearings for excessive play .... Im going to replace mine as Im sure they would have never been done ...... Its not a difficult job and bearings are cheap.
     
    GreyImport, Nov 18, 2013
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  15. Ben Mulligan

    Ben Mulligan Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Hi Forums,

    Some progress on my Suzy. Jerry can showed up drained and removed the tank and the carby. Tank only has TINY bits of rust in it, anyone recommend a jet kit or something like that? Also would you wire brush the tank to remove the paint or sand it?

    Tagged and pulled out the loom (god I hate that part, all the fiddly little cables I don't want to forget later gah!) And I managed to get all the gear off the bars, forks.

    Started with a wire cup brush to get an idea of the effect, not sure if i'll just get the whole frame snad blasted it will probably be quicker and look better?

    I want to degrease the engine but am unsure whether to take the sparkers out first or leave them in but exposed?

    I'm also hesitant to take the right engine cover off totally yet until the maniual rocks up so I know where the timing markers are for when i'm putting it back together.


    IMG_2405.jpg IMG_2407.jpg IMG_2408.jpg IMG_2409.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 2
    Ben Mulligan, Nov 22, 2013
    #35
  16. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Ben
    Well you've made a start, good effort. The tank paint removal I would do with paint stripper, so easy.
    Hope you took photo's of the wiring loom, makes it easier when reassembling.
    Would certainly have the frame sand blasted, so much easier.
    Do not remove the spark plugs when degreasing the engine, you don't want that stuff inside the engine.
    You know that manuals are available on the forum, use them.
    Best of luck.
     
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    Phil, Nov 22, 2013
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  17. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Well done Ben :thumb_ups:

    I wouldnt use the wire brush on the tank ..... as Phil said, paint stripper then some light sanding ....wet and dry paper

    The advantage with sand blasting ,apart from the time and effort it saves, is it will get into all the frames nooks and crannies.
     
    GreyImport, Nov 26, 2013
    #37
  18. Ben Mulligan

    Ben Mulligan Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    So the debate now is whether to chrome the engine covers or to polish them?
     
    Ben Mulligan, Nov 27, 2013
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  19. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Ben
    Interesting topic for sure, polishing can be done by yourself of course and chroming requires outsourcing. Polishing can be rewarding but does require constant follow up as chroming is much easier to keep clean, quick wipe.
    Guess you'll have to decide which one suits you and how much elbow grease you are prepared to expend, tough choice.
     
    Phil, Nov 27, 2013
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  20. Ben Mulligan

    Ben Mulligan Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Well, I'm committed now.

    Sandblasting for $50, so that's a yes. Loom for $550 from Japan... thats a no. Exhaust is rarer than rocking horse ****, so I might keep the exhaust headers and find a slip on muffler.

    Next, Matte black frame, high pressure wash the engine, matte the engine, chrome the covers and clean and re attach the carby. I'll worry about the seat and tail end once I get the bike running so that I can ride it to a shop to get it done.

    IMG_2466.jpg IMG_2467.jpg IMG_2468.jpg
     
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    Ben Mulligan, Dec 1, 2013
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