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Help 1998 Kawasaki Balius ZR250 (A) Cosmetic restoration

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by James Shaw, Jan 27, 2015.

  1. James Shaw

    James Shaw Member

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    That was only to ~8000. The choke is a bit sticky and I was checking everything was working, but point taken.
     
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  2. James Shaw

    James Shaw Member

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    Hey guys, I don't have a picture yet but I can't work out where the top tube coming out of the overflow tank goes to. The bottom pipe of the overflow tank goes to a valve near the radiator cap. I thought maybe the top one might just be a drain but it looks like it plug into something because it doesn't have the same road grime that the other drain pipes have and it has a pinch metal clip. Maybe it goes into the airbox and I haven't looked hard enough... I might take some pictures if you don't know what I mean
     
  3. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Somewhere to atmosphere that wont dribble on bike if it overflows. Most go to somewhere behind the engine/gearbox pointing to the side away from the rear tyre.
     
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  4. James Shaw

    James Shaw Member

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    Thanks I thought as much.
    My next questions. Is there an air relive valve in the coolant system? There seems to be one in the zxr but isn't in the same place in the zr
     
  5. James Shaw

    James Shaw Member

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    The Bikes off at road worthy. I'm a little worried about a couple things. But I'm sure it'll be ok.
     
  6. James Shaw

    James Shaw Member

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    Wowee: It passes almost as is. Just needed some new front brake pads.
     
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  7. James Shaw

    James Shaw Member

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    Hey all, Sorry I haven't been on much lately. Been really busy outside this project. I feel like it's not been finished enough to take some 'final' photos. This is the latest https://goo.gl/photos/Hswo2Ey4UABoB3Bz7 I've just been trying to use it as a commuter bike but it's been a bit difficult lately.

    The bike has been running really poorly lately. Idle dropping and engine dying frequently once it's warm. Once it dies it's difficult to get going again, usually waiting and trying a few times with the choke on/off, then bam. I ran some fuel system cleaner through it which made this slightly better. But before I go through it all. I thought it best to ask if it's worth just looking for a new motor. When I got this one I wasn't sure what condition it actually was in. I believe it needs at least a new Primary drive chain (possibly tentioners) and cam chains (it has two small cam chains and possibly tentioners for those as well). When running lots of chain noise from the motor, I tried resetting the tentioner and now the primary drive chain is a little quieter except near idle speed it seems to go, grindy -> grindy -> quiet -> quiet -> etc. The Tentioner has some slight indentations and smooth bits I believe from wear and tare.

    When it is cold it starts up easily and idles ok (I have to keep the idle a little high to stop it from dying. (~1600rpm+ on the taco not sure if it's accurate). Once it's warm 20+ mins of riding the idle drops below 1500 frequently and it's difficult to keep it alive with the throttle or the idle adjuster on the carbs.
     
  8. James Shaw

    James Shaw Member

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    P.S. I'm not talking about the gearbox to wheel chain/sproket set. The noise and rough running seems to be internal to the engine/gearbox on both left and right side.
     
  9. James Shaw

    James Shaw Member

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    @GreyImport I've ordered a carb seal kit from litetek and plan to go through the carbs properly, like I should have done when they were off the bike in the first place. I was just a bit intimidated by their intricacy and four of them.
     
  10. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Yea its well worth the effort ..... can be daunting at first but just be meticulous with your methods and keep everything in order
    Just be careful of removing anything made of brass as its "soft" .... like jets etc
    The other thing of course is clean clean clean ..... and compressed air at the end
    A light smear of rubber grease on the Litetek o rings and seals before installing
    Check the diaphragms for cracks or splits

    You may want to replace these also

    http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/khv-24l24-float-valve-needle-and-seat
    http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/kvn-17v20

    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threa...in-your-zxr250-keihin-cvk30-carburetors.2651/
     
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  11. James Shaw

    James Shaw Member

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    After jostling the Carbs around to get them off and drain them. The fuel in there came out light brown :S... I really should have done this the first time. fingers crossed I don't immediately need a new engine
     
  12. zixxer

    zixxer Well-Known Member

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    you will know when you need a new engine, get a new tensioner and see if that makes the cam chain any quieter sounds like its flooding at idle, 1600 rpm idle is fine. Get threebond and soak all the carb bits in it then clean out the jets with fishing line or a small needle. when the cam chain is loose you will hear it slap on the rocker cover. Maybe do the spark plugs aswell and spray some threebond down the intake, valves are probably covered in crap.

    all these engines are noisey btw, they just are.
     
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  13. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Grey's absolutely on the money. I put one of these kits into my carbs on ZXR and it's worth every cent. Although on paper and the fact there's 4 of them make the carbs seem a bit scary (I thought this before doing mine) once you get them apart and start working with them you'll see they are not actually all that bad to work on.

    You say the fuel came out brown? When you originally got the junk out of the tank did you put a sealant/tank reconditioning kit through it? Rust etc will come back quickly if not treated correctly.

    ZXplosions :lolsign:
     
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  14. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Make sure the tank is clean inside and u have a new fuel filter and that its installed in the correct direction ..... no use having clean carbs when theres crap preceding them

    Edit : yea wat Doug said :lolsign:
     
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  15. James Shaw

    James Shaw Member

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    I don't know where the fuel filter is on these. I might look at getting a tank sealant kit as well.

    Sent from my Moto G 2014 using Tapatalk
     
  16. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    If it's like the zxr it will just be an in line filter on the fuel line from tank to carbs. It's not a factory filter many people just fit them.

    There are also tiny mesh filters in the carb float needle seats. Check these when you pull them apart for blockages. Unscrew the floats remove the float needles and use some pointy pliers or something to pull the seat out. I think there are photos in the guide

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
     
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  17. James Shaw

    James Shaw Member

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    Thanks for the help guys, heaps of chemicals and bits on the way to me, carbs are out, I'll let you know how it goes. One last thing I haven't seen much on setting the idle mixture screw on the ZR250, any tips/links?
     
  18. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Prob the same as zxr 2.5 turns out with a 1/4 turn tolerance

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  19. James Shaw

    James Shaw Member

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    I got my tank cleaning/sealing kit and the carb seal kit and the carb cleaner, this week should be a reasonably busy week. I'm pretty sure I don't have a fuel filter. Any idea what I should buy to slot in after the tank (presumably).
     
  20. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hi i use a mesh one, as the zxr doesnt have a fuel pump and is gravity fed. being a 4 cylinder 250 when i ran a paper one the Bike would stop after about 10 mins on the hwy, found out that it would empty the carb bowls the faster then it would fill them up (fuel starvation) The reason was the fuel filter didnt flow fast enough.

    image.jpg image.jpg
    Above is the one I use, did a decent enough job considering my intank one fell out and I was picking up all the rust from the bottom. I cleaned the tank and carbs and the jets weren't blocked by rust so it did it's job. This filter was completely blocked and I ended up pushing the bike home.

    btw just read your thread and seen all the pics, some very nice work. The engine sounded really healthy to me when you fired it up. idling like that with no airbox jeez thats good. If your worried about cam chain noise dont be too worried unless you can hear it flicking the rocker cover. ALL kawasakis have loud cam chains lol.
    The vid below has the noise you dont want to hear mine was around 4krpm

    A replacement tensioner i used (not even new)
     
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    Last edited: Aug 31, 2015

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