Project 1989 FZR 250R EXUP Bike-in-a-box rebuild

can someone with a 250r exup check one thing for me please?

keys in ignition, turn the ignition on, set lights from off to on (2 clicks to the left) do the dipped lights come on? also when you have put the lights to on can you operate the main beam?

i can get the front sidelights (or whatever you call them) to come on, but no other lights, everything else seems ok, indicators, rear brake light (need to check rear light when setting the light switch from off to on), fuel pump primes, exup valve turns, bike knows when its in neutral and if i ground the oil sensor the light comes on, and if i briefly hit the starter the bike turns over...so all the electrics seem good, waiting on carbs now, waiting on an M7 x 1.0 tap to clean out the bleed nipples then brakes can go back on and its ready for some petrol

ive fitted the spigots for my carb balancers so i can balance the carbs as well and ive replaced a leaking water seal (it was an old one that i reused new one and a further clean fixed the problem) and its now full of coolant (not leaking) and full of new oil (not leaking either) so its all good

 

Cheers...and bugger time to get the multimeter on it...

 

Fixed it, 2 problems with it, pictures and video to follow soon, first issue was that the blue-red wire going to the lhs switchgear was corroded in the block so I just bypassed it with a 2*1 connector block so it can be easily removed in the future if needed. The second issue was no continuity across the flasher button contacts so I took the assembly apart and cleaned it all out, removed a good deal of corrosion, cleaned the spring and...continuity! So we are all good...see the video soon to be attached.

With the exception of the coils I've now tested and verified all the electrics on the bike. I also put some bulbs into the clocks as they were blown/missing, need a brighter one in bottom right of rev counter to make water temp brighter...but no worries for the moment.

I get the carbs back soon, they will need assembling back together, then add in the jets and we can fire it up for the first time since 2007!

 

if anyone is interested this is the flasher switch, the contact is actually completed by the spring that pushed the switch back to you


and this is my sultry yorkshire voice, showing everything working, front lights-side
https://www.flickr.com/photos/126613206@N07/26757356245/in/photostream/

 

Carbs are back with me, will reassemble tonight and fire it up tomorrow

I've tapped the brake nipples to clean them out, new nipples are on order. New fuel pipe and clips are here so I can fit that later.

 

good news and bad news...

got it fired up, was running rough, ballanced the carbs, still rough, checked to make sure all 4 cylinders were firing (they were), looked over at the crank breather pipe and there is a lot of white/grey smoke coming from there, so much that if it attach it to the airbox and press the airbox onto the carbs i get bubbles of oil and gas coming from the oil filler cap...i think at least one of the pistons is not sealing, all i can think is that its blowback past the rings but there must be a hell of a lot of it...can anyone else think what could be causing it?

im off to get a compression tester from a mate today so that will give me a better indication of whats going on...anyone know what a good reading should be? i would be thinking in the 130-150psi reading for a properly sealing cylinder, and less than 80 for one thats properly buggered?

 

fresh new oil, set to middle of the slight glass, when the bike is running if i hold closed the breather for 1 second and then let go a lot of gas is expelled from there...i mean, thats just not right surely?

when i release the pressure on that breather tube it feels like ive blown hard on my palm, thats with it shut for 1s, i know some gas will leak past the rings, but no way can it be that much?

ill put the video up, i gave it some revs to see if it would clear up and start fuelling correct, listen towards the end of the video, that rattling sound is not good...

 

click on the picture to be taken to the video, listen towards the end, thats not a good noise.



VID_20160508_135259416 by john duncan, on Flickr

 

i bought 5L and look to have used half of it, ill check it again when i get home soon and top up if necessary, you really think it should be sending out that much gas from the breather?

ill take a video of it tonight, its like a second exhaust, it really is that much volume...its never how ive seen a crank breather operate before...

 

topped the oil up to the max fill line (top of the sight glass) and removed my carb balancers, refitted the vacuum screws and it sounded a lot better, doesnt sound like its now full of nails, and found the correct breather tube and fitted that.

as ive only done the valve clearances, and the engine has been stood since 2008 i think there was a fair bit of crap in there, and that was what i was seeing being burnt/steamed from the crank breather, was a lot more "normal" looking when i fired it up last night.

ive got the compression tester, but as that means making some access at the front of the engine, and as it was hot from being run, ill do that later on, i then remembered that i'd not set the carb float heights, i'd just assumed they were correct, thats probably a big mistake and a reason why it wont idle. spraying carb cleaner around the rubbers got the revs to rise on #2 carb and slightly on #1 carb so ill have to remove them and inspect/clean/replace as necessary...i will get it running right

 

its not the rings...compression test gave 120psi cold, no oil, across all 4 with the exception of #3 which was 125psi, float heights were set to 12.5mm which seems way off, i have read that 10.5mm is a more realistic height for the floats, can anyone confirm this?

ill check the carb rubbers tonight for cracks and try and get the carbs better sealed in the rubbers when i next reassemble them as there were a few vacuum issues, in general im pretty sure its running lean, so its either air leak around rubbers (which i know there are deffinitely a few), float level too high (which i suspect), or a combination of both...

 

Cheers, the lad is back home from a business trip this tuesday, so ive sent him a lits of final bits to buy, as for the carb rubbers, there was no issue with 3 of them but the #3 carb rubber did have some fairly extensive cracking around the top lip...however he has some spare that he thinks are ok, so ive asked him to send them down, the others are back on the bike along with a thin film of instant gasket just to seal off any potential leaks with the engine, i also took a razer blade to the mounting surface and removed any old built-up material, looked a lot better after that, ill set the float heights and then see how/if it will fire up and be stable, then its a final coolant flush and we should be all good to fit the fairings/fuel tank etc and have a finished machine!

ill have to take it around our roads one evening to see how it feels on the road too