Good question... Did not set up my carbies yet.... and mine is running too rich, I can smell it and... only getting 110k's until reserve, and it should be around 200 apparently.. According to the PO he put different Jets in as well.. so I'll be needing to go through all that setup, coz its not right - it goes like stink though
Anyone had a similar problem to this? And how they resolved it? I've looked at ebay and browsed around a bit but not much coming up, FZR250.com has a decal sheet but I wouldn't even know where to start trying to source some...
Sooo..... having now received most of my bits I started digging into the carbies. I found a few things, a lot of potential risk but overall I was pretty happy with how clean they were. A bike this old could have been a lot worse. This is the EXACT reason to never use that gasket goop stuff. Not only is it damn near impossible to clean off, but the risk of contamination is very high: The other thing I found is some minor degradation of the vacuum plungers. Although the plungers themselves looked OK, over the years it has obviously started to shed some powdery bits of the rubber. Another contamination risk, those jet holes etc are so small - the bike isn't going to like it if some of this gets clogged up somewhere. I carefully cleaned the plungers carefully with a rag and some WD40 as I didn't want to risk stretching, ripping or doing anything that may compromise their correct operation. They polished up pretty well. Other notable points are that all the jets were clear, but the slide housing seals and the main jet seals were the most cactus. I couldn't even get the main jet seals out in one piece. This gives an idea of what I was looking at: Tip: Label and keep EVERYTHING. Not only did this help me to put it back together (knowing what I had/had not done in each carby), but if I ever needed to revert back I could at any time (except for the main jet seals haha). Lastly came the spit 'n shine with the carby cleaner: On the side, I also got the venhill EXUP repair kit. Good kit for $20, very easy to use I'll throw it back on the bike today. The biggest plus is NO SOLDERING REQUIRED which I like, not because I can't do it but because tightening with an allen key is much less effort and much more easily adjustable As I buggered the chain clip I'm getting another one in from Slipstream (did you know that chain manufacturers purposely make their chain clips different? what a royal pain in the bum, especially since I got an RK chain and nobody in melbs seems to have it on the shelf!! Annoying!). Also the extra lock washer for the front sprocket is in, looking to whiz into the CBD and grab it in the next few days sometime.
Ok so... Had no problems getting it tight with the second washer. Pretty neat outcome I think. Still to bend the corners up. Could someone with a 3LN3 or similar please humor me with a picture of how your cables are attached to the EXUP actuator? The exploded diagram seems to show the casing the same, but my casings are slightly different. Just wanted to double check which was which, if it matters.
Good work Stu. Nearly there. I have been updating my rebuild guide for BDSTs as I assemble my own and to respond to feedback from customers. Like yours with the float needle seat housing o-rings that want to climb out. http://www.litetek.co/Guide_MikuniBDST_Rebuild.html There might be some useful info there. I suggest set everything to standard and don't change it until you get used to the bike and have put some decent miles on it. Start by setting the mixture screws to suit your bike. 1/ Ride it to warm up 2/ Change all four screws by 1/4 turn 3/ Ride again the note whether this is better or worse 4/ Rinse and repeat The smaller the displacement and the higher the state of tune the more sensitive an engine is to mixture adjustments. You can also find that it wants a slightly richer setting in winter due to the denser air. If you find the sweet spot then you can try moving the needle up or down a notch. Do not be afraid to try a leaner setting. cheers Blair
hey @GreyImport @maelstrom just sense checking @Mclaren 's thoughts. pilot screws two full turns out to start with?
I start with 2½ turns and take it from there When the screw is fully in (just bedding not tight) I mark where the slot is on the carb body ..... makes it so much easier when judging 1 or ½ turns ..... I have a mark on one side of the head of the screwdriver I use also Don't forget to do a full 360 for 1 turn
Thanks mate I'll be sure to do that. These carbies aren't the easiest to access, I can see adjustment being relatively... painful.
Well guys, today a mate and I got her going again today and she runs pretty damn good. EXUP is back on and all sweet, and we seemed to fix the clip on the chain and tightened the rear wheel. Carbies, airbox and tank went back on and she was primed to go. The pilot screw settings seemed to work out OK, she didn't idle at all first, but we played with the idle screw on the side of the carby and got her to a pretty good position. In the first video you can just hear she is a little jumpy still, so for some fine tuning we may play with the pilot screws a little more - but for the most part she's really smooth. We discovered that one fork seal is also leaking (although minor) will get onto that as well. At idle: First run: Getting pretty excited - almost there!!
You've just reminded me I need to get on with my attempt at fixing the front cowl on mine and get it ready for an inspection!
Done well mate looking Mickey Mouse also my fav bit on bike and wish I had it on my fzr is the exup exhaust never get rid of it plus the paint scheme that what I wanted as it the colour on brochure
Well, got an unreg permit to take her for fresh fuel/tyre pressure check and... wow. Not only does she "go like stink" (as someone else so elegantly put it lol) but boy does she flood. She hates sitting still then trying to take off any less than 3-5K rpm. When she's going she's going great, but you have to keep her revving and burning off that fuel because I was finding it quite tricky to keep her at idle without flooding her. Suppose that's my welcome to the "fizzer club". First job tomorrow - lean up all the carbs one notch. Hopefully makes it a bit easier. Front brakes need a bleed and the fork seals are coming so a couple more weekends of work to go.
@Grasshoppers is worse... anything less than 10k rpm and feathering the clutch while results in flooding, and stalling. I suggested starting with setting the idle circuit to stock settings, as it does influence the whole rev range
I have my zeal at 2 turns, it is was at 3 running rich. I can run it cold with next to no choke. Hope it helps.
Stock is 3 turns out .... which really doesn't mean crap ..... its just a starting point. Heres wat does wat and when ....