CR8E are standard, CR8EIX are the iridium version. CR8EK will be a dual pronged plug (double the life of a standard in theory) Just go for the standard ones if you're on a budget
Cheers for the help team. Seems it just needed a new set of plugs. Carbs still bog a bit so they will need a tweek but i'll get it back together once every things back from the powder coaters so I can run it round the block and try my hand at tuneing it.
Congrats mate , good to see it is running You can use any 12 v horn, try your local bike shop, most stock generic ones
I used something like this ... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-Lou...160?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0
Supercheapauto sell these, from memory one of them is small http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/SCA-12V-Disc-Horn-Low-Tone/284679 http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/SCA-12V-Disc-Horn-High-Tone/284680 I used a Fiamm low tone horn off a 2006 Mercedes Benz E220 on my FZR, they are pretty small and very loud
You you have your original bolt's still? You could clean them up and get them replated pretty cheap. Doesn't look like you can buy them seperately new, part's diagram's show the full caliper's. If your original bolt's are pretty rough and rounded etc, you could maybe try and match some up at a fastener shop, i reckon you could use some Unbreako 12.9 high tensile socket head cap screw's or mushroom head cap screw's with washer's under the head's. They will lose their colour a bit though after a while unless you use some decent clear or coloured paint like KBS or Por15 sell. Otherwise there's the Titanium bolt's again.
Original parts can some times come very expensive, especially when it comes to the simple ol nuts & bolts, go to a local fastening specialist & ask for high tensile plated capscrews or whatever & you will save a fortune, but make sure you take along some samples otherwise both the supplier & yourself will get very frustrated
on a side note. what are you guys using for front stands? I have one that goes up the stem but i'm not a fan its not very stable.
I use a rope over a rafter on my back verandah, the rope has a loop on each end to slip over the grip's
The plug you show in the photo is stuffed, if the porcelain part of the center electrode has gone black it has become carbon shorted, hence the spark will not jump the electrode gap especially when under compression, electrical currents will always find the easiest way to an earth, in this case down through the carboned up portion of the center electrode. The engine this plug has come from has either been running way to rich, has been burning oil, has a blocked up air filter or has trying to be run on old stale fuel. Cheers.
@Mike Fulcher I think your are about a week late on that info.. the OP has posted up the top of the page that new plugs fixed the issue.. you need to keep up with the times mate
Yes I know, I know, the only reason I replied to the earlier thread was because it may help some poor soul that has neglected such a simple thing as crook plugs, we get it in our line of workshop repairs all the time, we often get clients that have done everything including carb. overhauls, filter replacements you name it, only to find out after all this it was just a faulty spark plug,
OK guys so I've got my calipers back from the powder coaters. he said he could sand blast them which i was dubious about as i was going to get them vapor blasted. Anyway there seems to be left over grim, grease, powder etc in the pots and around the seal lands. anybody have any good ideas on how to clean these up before i put them back together? soak them in brake fluid maybe? also the wheels had to go back and get recovered as the metallic powder didn't cover well enough so will be recovered in a solid colour.
