Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Yetiburger, Oct 7, 2017.
its brand new second hand. multi reads 3.6 and 14.33
Put your multimeter to 200 Ohm's and touch the red lead and black lead together, what's the reading there ?
That should come off the 3.6 Ohm reading
Have you tried swapping the coil's around, eg if the new coil wasn't working on 1 & 4 swap the wire's that connect the coil's from the main harness / TCI with coil 2 & 3 and see if it's doing the same thing
ok so the multimeter resistant is 1 ohm. i had both coils hooked up correctly and the thing kinda wanted to fire every now and then. no different if coil 1/4 is unplugged. then i swapped plugs from the TCI and it had a couple of little back fires. What does this mean? the coil is good but the TCI is bad?
ok so checked again and i think it is the coil.
ok so its been a busy couple of weeks. managed to get all my fairings done and fixed up.
but I still need another coil to get it all running. Does anybody have a good one they're willing to sell? I've also had the bolts strip out in one of the front callipers.
also my rear shock arrived. does anybody have a link to how to put it in? dog bone size etc.
Look's like you'll need to Helicoil the caliper to fix the thread's
@kiffsta or @Joker may have a good spare coil ?
With the R6 rear shock conversion there's some pic's and info posted on my 3LN3 thread too,
look at page 20, starting from post #391 and onward's
I ended up using the standard dog bone's in mine, it dropped the rear end 10mm, otherwise the longer dogbone's made the shock too hard
do you think the alli threads may have picked up?
ok so i was taking the front discs off and it appears all the bolts that hold it on are soft and two of them rounded the head out. Can I get replacement bolts.
Did you use some heat to break the Loctite seal on them before trying to undo them?
It seem's page's 47 and 48 are missing from the part's manual with the front disc's and bolt part number's etc.
I've seen some nice Titanium bolt's on ebay for sale, $58 inc delivery
My two cents. If you use Titanium you must use anti-seize. This is what I use because it is recommended by Henkel for the application. Threadlocker is not anti-seize. Buy the OEM parts if you want to use threadlocker.
oh rookie mistake. but they didn't put up much oh a fight to round out.
Ok guys I'm going to need your help. I have put in yet another secondhand coil that I got from a member. I didn't get it running as I ran out of battery so that's on charge. but it sounded like it was trying to fire on two cylinders again. Previously I swapped the coils over and just had the good coil for 2/3 plugged into the plug for 1/4 and I swear i got it to back fire. From this I thought the TCI must be good? Is there something missing is there something else I can check?
This is what I would do.
Read the voltage across each coil (the small spade terminals) with a fully charged battery and ignition on. You should see a constant 12 volts. Assuming that is OK, read again when cranking the motor. They should ground out and come back up to 12 volts again. You may or may not be able to see it depending on how good your meter is. If you get good readings then your TCI and pickup should be working fine.
Then I would check the spark on all 4 plugs, leads, and caps, if anything looks suspect then rip it out and replace it.
Regarding the twin coils and leads. There are only two possible combinations, since each coil fires two cylinders at a time (with one being a wasted spark at top dead centre of the exhaust stroke - hence the name). The length of the leads will give you a clue, unless they have previously been chopped or replaced.
Fizzers are really sensitive to fuel supply to get started in my experience, especially if the pilot system is lean (partially blocked jets or too lean on the screws). If the float valves are leaking and the fuel tap is on, they will fill the intakes and your cylinders with fuel. To put this in perspective, the volume of the cylinder is compressed to roughly 6.5cc's, so there is zero chance it will fire. The fuel with be forced past the rings or valves, out the exhaust etc.
They don't like old stale fuel either, they tend to pump it out the exhaust where it ignites thanks to the wasted spark, letting out massive afterfires.
Speaking of which, you said you got to backfire. Is it actually backfiring out the inlet/carb, or did you mean after-firing out the exhaust?
i cant remember where it back fired but i think it was out the carbs. i swapped the signal to the coil but left it conneted to plugs 2 and 3. I had the bike running off the key after i rebuilt the carbs, then the last time I had it running it was only firing on 2 and 3. I believe when I check the plug to the coil it wasn't giving me 12V but I will check that again tomorrow.
Alright, you need to sort out this issue with the coil(s) before anything else.
If you are not getting 12v across the coil, there are only a few things that can cause it.
A dead coil (open circuit or shorted out) - most likely
Broken wire or high resistance in the wires from the TCI to the coil - second most likely
Faulty TCI - unlikely unless the voltage regulator has failed and killed it - happened to me with a Zeal. I also blew a coil wide open because some idiot put a 30 amp fuse in the ignition circuit which has a 5 amp fuse as standard, and there was dodgy hack job wiring to start it without an ignition barrel.
If you have a wrecker or are looking on ebay/gumtree etc, the Zeal uses the same coils, just with a different part number prefix (3YX instead of 3LN). You can use a Zeal TCI in a pinch as well, just to rule yours out.
After you have the coils sorted, drain the fuel tank and carby bowls and get some fresh stuff in there. Fizzers really do not like old fuel. How long as it been since it was running on all 4?
And did you end up doing the valve clearances?
Keep persisting and you will get there...