Picked this up a couple of weeks ago. Pretty rank in general but looks to be a good base. We'll see what happens.. Needs a fair bit of work, still haven't started it yet. Needs brake rebuild (seals are shot), the RHS clip-on is bent and binding the throttle. Got an airbox but waiting on boots. Tank is a rust bucket. Might just pay a radiator place to coat it. Lots of other bits an pieces. Pending on if it starts or not + how well it runs I'd like to avoid opening the engine up.
The SRX lads on here might be able to list the things to check. As I recall there is a nylon gear that breaks in the engine, oil pump maybe?
Yep... I have only seen 1 that failed and that was on @Oigy bike... oh.. hang on... one of our Kiwi friends one failed as well. Easy enough to change though without having to pull the complete engine apart. I have a spare tank here that is in good condition.. PM me if you are interested..we can figure out a price. It is currently painted Ford Ruby Red but there is no 2 pak on it so easy enough to change the colour. I havent been out in the Garage since I got your PM on the filter thickness.. If you were to use 12.5mm (1/2") thick Unifilter foam I think you would be pretty right. I can probably map you out a pattern and scan it as well at some stage... just have a fair bit on currently so Garage time isnt high on the agenda.
Thanks for the heads up on the nylon gear, will inspect it. I'll see how I go with my tank, may take you up on the offer though. Hopeful to get to a shop this week and see what the damage will be for them to treat it. Cheers for the info on filter. I did a trial with the dish sponge which was 16mm and that seemed to fit. I was ready to order a 16mm filter panel haha so thanks. Any idea on pores per inch or however they measure the grade? A scanned template would be great too but I'm in no hurry so don't worry if you can't get to it. I was just going to eyeball it.
I got some good foam from here, https://www.uniflow.com.au/index.html good range and price, several options and fast service. This was for a different project but.
Oh, and the oil pump gears Andy spoke of, no wonder the bore was stuffed, it one position, the pump did not turn at all
Cheers for the info! Uniflow popped up in my search and was gonna be my choice, good to know they are decent. Will definitely get onto these gears! Thanks!
Oil pump gears and air filter ordered. Fuel tank is still gross. Might try the electrolysis method to clean it out and if it goes belly up I'll have to take you up on the offer andych. Ended up popping out the caliper cylinders out with my tyre inflator. The bike came with a spare caliper with both bleed screws snapped and two easy outs snapped off in them good fun. Seal kits are $50, could just reuse the ones in the spare caliper.. How nasty is that gunk in the caliper though haha. There was some rust too. Was going to treat then stick it on and bleed it. Won't rust if it's full of fluid, right?
Try some Evapo Rust from Supercheapauto or Metal Rescue from Repco in the tank, use a handful or 2 of small rock's or nut's bolt's and screw's in there as well, shake it around well
If you get it cleaned out and it doesnt leak... give it a real good slosh around with some diesel... that will stop it from flash rusting. You can always get yourself some of this stuff. https://rustedsolutions.com.au/
Cheers for the links fellas. I did my zxr a while back that was no way near as bad. It sprung a leak. Not holding much hope for this one. I think I used ranex from bunnos and the nut and bolt method. Trying not to drop too much money into it if she's cactus, already over budget haha
Well I rust treated the tank and it didn't leak. But the seal job was less than breezy. I took the carb off and had a look at it. Found this: Might just leave it. I bet if I try taking it out I'll damage it even more. Float looked mangled too. What else will I find? Also got an email from partzilla saying my pump gears would be delayed 6 weeks + actual delivery time. Kicking goals here fellas.
@edwardo have you considered the use of a molasses mixture to clean the inside of your tank. It's a slow process, but I have used it in the past to quite effectively clean up rusted parts. It will not remove paint or oil. Google the process to see if it will suit your requirements. You do need to treat the clean surface quite quickly afterwards to stop the rust returning. Maybe WD40 or something similar. Or just put some fuel in the tank.
I've used Metal Rescue and it works great. But if the rust is that bad, after removing it with metal rescue, why not put a tank liner through the tank? I've done 2 tanks and not had a problem at all. Used the KBS brand stuff. Just follow the directions and it works a treat. Unless that is, if the tank is almost ready to fall apart...
I've had good success with plain old white vinegar and a handful of nuts. Key is to rinse it with very hot water and then heatgun it dry and it wont flash rust
Yes I used the KBS tank seal which is a great product, I just put too much of the actual sealer in and couldn't drain the excess out! The KBS YouTube guide makes it look easy but trying to get excess out of a srx tank isn't as easy. My own fault though. It seemed to be fish eyeing. Instructions say it will bubble if there's too much. Seemed to bubble from the same spots so I thought I hadn't cleaned it well enough. Anyway it's done haha Haven't heard of that method before! Would not have picked molasses for cleaning a fuel tank.
Hi to all. If you need a scanned template of a O.E filter i can help with that if Andych hasn't have time to get to it ( he's a busy boy ). New O.E filter's are pretty cheap , well i wasn't charged much at all for my spare filter's. Do you still need a R/H bar ?. I'f so i might know where one is , i'll have to check for you though.
I managed to source a filter although who knows when it will arrive haha I should be right for now. As for the bar I have one on the way from eBay. Cheers though! Here is my secondary main jet: It's pretty chewed out and also out of round. Just thinking, I could: A - file it flat and grind in a new flat head. It'd be shorter and still out of round. B - source a replacement. Anyone have a spare? Can't seem to find anywhere that has them. C - get some m8 x 1.0 brass thread and turn it into a jet. Just don't know the precise hole diameter as mine is wonky.