Anyone know what torque setting should be on the LONG bolts (the ones right next to the cylinder head nuts, near where it describes 45nm for the nuts...? Doesn't seem to be any setting for them, My guess is 45nm as well???
Well done mate, I know for a fact that the sound of your voice was totally "unrehearsed" Always rewarding when a plan comes together Gotta admit ...... sounded good
It's sounds majorly beastie. People will hear you coming on this thing, that's for sure! Final dry compression was 105 PSI after valve changeout & lap. Intake clearances 0.11 (little tight but passable) Exhaust 0.16 Final timing: Pilot setting as per manual (2 1/4 turns out I believe). Just some reference points for others.
So, test ride today. Was fun until I ran out of fuel whoops. Good thing still had a bit of reserve to get me home lol So the shopping list, most of which are cosmetic are: - Top cover for instrument cluster ($105 from honda) - Rear brake shoes (will look into that) - Sprocket cover (around $100 from honda) - New handlebar (the donkey who owned this ground the bar off on either end, probably to try and shorten the grip a bit, but no wonder the instrument cluster doesn't fit. The grips are hanging halfway off either end too. Anyone got a bar lying around? May have a look at AUSFR to see if I can pick up a cheap replacement). One thing I noticed is that when the bike is running I can't seem to get it into neutral... but when the bike is off it's really easy... did I miss something? Mucked around for a while but couldn't seem to improve it. Also just for @Phil I did a bit of a resto on the exhaust, high heat paint. Matt silver, but makes an improvement and hides the rash a bit. Definitely not the original muffler, but as I'm not planning on keeping it - who cares. The new owner better not be an older gentlemen, this thing is loud. Good wash and polish should see the rest of it come up OK. Here's what it looks like all back together: And for the rev heads another video
http://thirdgear.com.au/handlebars/ Cheap handlebars If neutral is an issue, it might be that the foot shifter isn't adjusted right, ie too much tension on the shift rod, maybe back it out a few turns or vice versa
Ok I'll have a look at that next, I thought I could adjust it out with the clutch cable but it's not improving... bit of tinkering will get it right I'm sure.
Im guessing your setup will be much the same so if u change the position/angle on the spline (blue arrow) it will improve the gear selection And for those playing at home the adjustments at the red and green arrows raise and lower the gear lever to where is most suitable for you to get your boot under and over the lever while changing gears. Lossen the nuts (one is a reverse thread) and turn the rod with your fingers making sure u leave enough thread in the ends .... lube the ball joints while youre there.
You must have copied and pasted that over 10 times in various threads grey, well done for the perseverance I'll have a fiddle see what I can do, surely it's adjustment. It's just very fiddly and annoying adjustment!
Its not hard .... take it off the spline and turn it a few notches forward (more than likely) using the gap as a guiding point ....... go out to your FZR and move that split so it points backwards ..... Ill bet u cant get neutral or much else The rod adjustment is just a rider comfort setting And apart from posting to help the original asker of a question , theres also the countless others who may not know or whom want to know the information ...... and Im sure half the people who read my posts previously are long gone and theres a whole bunch of new people reading this now. Using the term 'for those playing at home' refers , not to u , but all the others that are taking in the bullshit I post at times. And then again maybe your whole clutch and gearbox might match your exhaust valve .......
lol fair enough I wasn't having a dig just saying I've seen you post that several places so you must get sick of it Still to play, rear wheel is off at the moment as I'm doing the rear brake (shoe is all uneven and nasty) I'll let you know how I go. And bit confused by the clutch/gearbox/exhaust valve comment?
So... new rear brake shoe is in, cleaned up the chain, spocket cover is on, new handlebar (went 3rd gear, seems OK in general but a bit annoyed everything still spins on the bar a little even though it's all tightened up properly). I've ordered the plastic top cover for the instruments from honda, that should be here by the weekend (that was an expensive piece of plastic grr). The last remaining thing is the clutch. It's still weird and I don't know why. Bike is off, everything's fine. Bike is on, can get into first then can't change out of it. Rides ok, can scroll through the gears then, but not when stationary. The gear lever is of simpler construction than others, this is where I left it: I've been playing with the bolts on the other side but I still can't seem to get it. I'm starting to think I need to pop the clutch cover off and have a look at the return spring/worm gear mechanism on the lever itself. Really hope I don't have to do that...
I found the same thing when I did the clutch in the FZR. Just ride it a lot and the clutch will loosen up.
Thanks. I feel a bit stupid as it seems the simplest thing, with all the other work I've done it's really trivial. I'll adjust it where I think it should be and give it a good run to see how she goes. Maybe because it sat for a couple of years the plates are a bit stuck together.
30km ride today. Loosened up a little, can get into neutral when clicking down from second now but still with a bit of difficulty. Rides pretty well but man is it slow compared to the fizzer. I wonder if it's losing power with that hugely loud exhaust or whether it's just the style of bike (it has 3 less cylinders I suppose!).
It does have 22hp compared to 45 and weighs the same do yeah it would feel like its barely moving, You might be best served to pull the clutch cover off and re oil the friction plates. You might burn the steels out if its still stuck.
Tried it again this morning... easier again. Perhaps sitting overnight did something good. I think it's passable now, few more kms and hoping it will loosen up a bit more. Another question for the masses. This bike has obviously been sitting out in the weather for a period of time so the seat is a bit perished. when I get on and off my clothes kinda "stick" to it. Any tips on how to rectify/clean/restore that? Have tried armor all which is my usual trick, have heard about WD40 (will try that next) or do you have to go to some sort of vinyl restoration product? Cheers,