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Discussion ZXR250A Vs ZXR250C

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by Frankster, Feb 6, 2014.

  1. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Chris,

    Went and saw Peter at Motorcycle Spares Warehouse this morning. Asked him about the different jets from A to C and if he knew about any other differences. He said he'll hunt down what he can for us and send it through to me. I will post as soon as I have something.
     
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  2. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Running the alternator will also give you constant voltage that wont drop off as the battery goes down.

    Still sitting in shed but haven't run it for a while. PB was in low 12s, cannot remember the speed.

    It is the red one in case anybody gets confused.

    New shed 003.JPG
     
  3. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Very nice Murdo. Great time for a small capacity naturally aspirated bike. Doesn't look like it weighs more than 80kg plus unsprung weight (wire wheels) would have made it launch hard too.

    A man after my own heart...a collector. Is that an XL125 I spy above it?

    Frank
     
  4. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Chris,

    How did you go? Are they the same?

    Frank
     
  5. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    My Bike:
    1937 Royal Enfield 250, CF Moto 250 V5, Honda's XL250, CBR250, FT500 plus a few others.
    Thanks Frank, it weighs 72Kg last time I weighed it. Is built from a Suzuki TS185 frame, 'massaged' to fit a YZ250 Yamaha engine with a pipe built from YZ and TZ bits. Standard Suzuki forks, shocks, wheels with road tyres, etc. Couldn't find a small tank of the size I wanted so I built my own from 1.6mm aluminium. Same 1.6mm for the seat, fairing and battery box. Running no flywheel, just the spigot to open the points and 12 volt battery and coil. Clutch basket has been 'banded' with 12x3mm alloy strip welded to fingers. Some low bars and a lick of paint and there it is.
    Am going to ditch the battery and refit the flywheel magneto to give a bit more inertia when I dump the clutch, and have to sit down to make a better pipe for top end. Normally geared for 1/8th mile.
    My goal was to equal (or better) an English bloke who back in the '70s ran a 10.40 @ 97MPH on a Honda CR250 set up similar to mine.
    The bike above is a 'road' version of a 1972 SL125. CB front wheel and pipe with flat bars make for a nippy little round town bike.
    If you want I can post the collection.
     
  6. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Murdo,

    Love to see the rest of the collection. You're a driven man...10.40 @ 97mph is bloody quick for a 250. I'm trying to see how quick I can get a 4-stroke 250 to get down the quarter. As you probably know, most 250 drag bikes are 2-strokes, so I thought I'd go down a different path. I have an RZ250R track bike that I could build up as a drag bike, but I'm focused on the ZXR at this stage. I enjoy learning and the ZXR drag bike project is certainly giving me plenty to digest. I've been around drag racing for over 35 years, so I've seen plenty of changes over the years. Your bike would be perfect in nostalgia racing. PM me if you're ever coming to Melbourne and need somewhere to stay.

    Cheers

    Frank
     
  7. ajverma

    ajverma Active Member Premium Member

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    I can chime in here and explain my experience with this 16,000rpm hard limit.

    If it's feeling like your ignition is cutting at 16,000rpm I have the same problem and I know exactly why. I cut the speedo out of the bike and discovered that the speedo has a variable resistor inside which opens the circuit at 16,000rpm when the speedo reaches almost 180km/h, this is a design based on the 180km/h speed limits in Japan and can be overcome by adding the same resistor back into the speedo circuit when you strip the bike of all its cabling. at 16,000rpm in 6th your bike is doing ~$175km/h give or take a little, so once you reach this value, the resistor opens the circuit and this causes the ignition to hit a hard limit.

    Test this by adding the meters back into the circuit and you should be able to rev past 16,000.

    PM me if you need any more info, I've checked both the a model and the c model and both do this. I never fitted the C model gauges to an A model or vice versa so I'm not sure on whether the circuit has been altered slightly between the models, but it's worth a test. I have a spare set of C model gauges if you want them.

    Cheers and goodluck,

    Aj
     
  8. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    AJ,

    Thanks for your suggestion. You might be onto something, but I'm not sure how to look at fixing it or if it is exactly the same issue.

    My drag bike HAS had the speedo removed. Unfortunately, my mechanic has ripped out the standard loom and replaced it with basic wiring to basically start and run the engine. I don't know if I can even wire the speedo back into the bike. Also, my RPM problem is in all gears, not just when I hit 180kph. Actually, because of the RPM issue, I've never come close to 180kph (on the drag strip or otherwise).

    I will see if there is anyway to wire the speedo back in. I'm actually waiting for Chris to confirm if the pickup configuration is different between A and C models. Given the RPM issue happens in all gears I like the idea that it may be causing the ignition to retard via an incorrectly configured/used CDI (I have an A CDI with a C engine!).

    Cheers

    Frank
     
  9. ajverma

    ajverma Active Member Premium Member

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    I have the rpm issue in all gears as well, because I've removed the resistor I've opened the circuit and the bike always thinks I'm at 180km/h at 16,000rpm in any gear. The restriction has nothing to do with the speedo itself, it's just that they've put the resistor in there, the resistor circuit is controlled by the tacho circuit.

    To test this, disconnect the speedo on your street bike, hereby opening the ignitor circuit and go for a ride, and you should be able to replicate the situation on your drag bike.

    Let me know how it goes!
     
  10. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    AJ,

    That sounds like the problem I'm having. How do I "fix" this on my bike? The tacho on my bike still works, so is there anyway of putting the speedo back into the circuit that controls the RPM/speed scenario? Is there anything in the CDI that might affect the RPM issue?

    Thanks

    Frank
     
  11. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Hey guys, been a tad busy, wil have a look tonight for you
     
  12. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Thanks Chris
     
  13. ajverma

    ajverma Active Member Premium Member

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    Hi Frank,

    I'm not sure about the CDI as I've never run a C model engine in an A model chassis, but how much of your speedo circuit do you still have left? Do you still have the connector? Can you test it on your street bike? If you can test it, let me know, and I'll test on my bike based on wiring diagrams I've got for the C model and a few other kawasaki's and I'll find you the wires you need to short to solve your problem.

    Cheers,

    Aj
     
  14. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Murdo et al,

    Well, I finally got to get the ZXR street bike to the strip and did a few passes. As some of you may recall, my ZX2R "drag bike" managed to run 15.46 @ 87mph on a hottish day with a 100kg jockey on board. My street bike zxr250 A ran 14.89 @ 91mph also on a hottish day with the same fat bastard jockey on board. To say I'm mega pissed off would be an enormous understatement. I am now 100% focused on getting the drag bike to rev paste 16,000rpm as I am convinced this the major issue restricting it. My street bike revved to 19,000rpm in all gears and never "hit" the limiter. My street bike also has the "8,000rpm hesitation" issue that these things seem to suffer from.

    Does anyone have a C model loom and CDI (21119-1322) they don't want? Despite the following image, my drag bike leaves "harder" than my street bike...probably because it weighs 30kg less and has a hopped up clutch.

    HPR20140223.png
     
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  15. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    AJ,

    I had a look at both the drag bike wiring and the street bike wiring on the weekend. I've included 2 photos with this post. One is the drag bike taken from the LHS of the bike and the other photo is of the street bike from the RHS of the bike. They're so different it's not funny. I will need to pull the drag bike wiring apart to see what goes where. The guy that re-wired the drag bike didn't use any of the original loom, so even the wire colours are different.

    I think maybe the quickest and cleanest way for me to resolve my revving problem is to get a new loom and a CDI for the C engine that's in the bike. Hopefully then I can put the speedo back and go from there. My drag bike has also had the alternator removed, which I want to put back. Is this a fairly easy process?

    I took the street bike to the strip on the weekend and it was soooo refreshing to watch the tacho climb cleanly all the way to the red line (19,000rpm) in every gear without even the slightest hint of "restriction".

    Thanks for your help AJ.

    Cheers

    Frank
     

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  16. ajverma

    ajverma Active Member Premium Member

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    Hi Frank,

    The drag bike is a little tricky and there's no way I'd be able to help you decipher which wire is which without looking at it and matching up the connectors, my best suggestion would be to test on your street bike to find the problem, then match the connectors up on your drag bike and hope the person who did the simplified loom kept the arrangement of connectors the same.

    I suggest your test your problem on your street bike. Your photos don't show it but behind the gauge cluster there is another connector, this should only have 3 wires in it, Brown,Black/yellowstripe, Pink. Disconnect this connector and take the bike for a ride, see if you're getting the same 16,000rpm issue. If you get the same issue as your drag bike you've found your problem and you can now begin to fix it on the drag bike.

    I believe the pink wire is the circuit that controls your rpm limiter, if you short it to negative for 0 resistance it should solve your problem.

    For reference, Kawasakis of this era use Brown as live and Black/yellow as negative.

    Let me know how this test goes and I'll explain the rest of the solution to you.

    You might not need to replace the loom if you can trace the wires. This will save you enough cash to spend on further lightening up the bike! :)

    In regards to the alternator, I'm not sure what was removed because these bikes don't have a conventional alternator, if you mean the stator sitting in the oil bath inside the left casing of the bike then yes, it can be put back easily. The problem begins in the wiring loom, if the p.o. has removed the charging circuit of the bike, then you might have trouble as you'll have to rebuild the circuit, which in itself is not a hard process if you have a wiring diagram. Check under your tank to see whether your rec/reg is still there. Does your bike have the starter motor removed?

    You're welcome!

    Aj :thumb_ups:
     
  17. risky

    risky risky

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    alibaba.com has a cdi that is called a coil[chinese]that has unlocked the rev limiter and other tricks.think it was called unlimited coil.price in china was 150 usa dollars. could solve more than one problem. they also had them for the other major brands.alibaba is a chinese ebay.
     
  18. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Thanks Risky. My only concern with these after market CDI units is they don't have a rev limiter and missing a gear will more than likely be terminal to the engine. I will try and resolve the revving issue by following AJ's post and see how I go.

    Cheers

    Frank
     
  19. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Hi AJ,

    Thanks for the guidance. I will try this on my street bike. If it does the same thing then we're nearly home. I will see what happens and then report back.

    I really should use the right terminology/name to describe parts...yes, it's the Stator Coil (see B in pic.) I am referring to. I will address putting this back in the engine once the restricted revving issue is resolved.

    The bike still has its starter motor. While I have you, does removing the starter motor cause any issues? I know most bike racers remove it and either bump start or use that funny spinning thing. Sorry for the stupid questions, but I'm not a mechanic and I'm learning as I go. I expect removing the starter will save a kilo or two.

    Cheers

    Frank
     

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  20. Kerz

    Kerz Beginner level grinder :)

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