ZXR250 starting woes

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by MakingBacon, May 16, 2016.

  1. MakingBacon

    MakingBacon Member

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    Hey guys.

    (long read TL;DR down the bottom)

    I bought my ZXR250 a few weeks ago, it was partially disassembled and in need of a new timing chain and some cosmetic love.

    I bought it sight unseen and not running, which is usually a huge no no when I am buying cars but I was so keen to buy my first bike I threw caution to the wind. Big mistake!

    So I fitted a new timing chain, did everything by the book 29 links from IN to EX, TDC on 1/4 and a new chain tensioner spring. I then cleaned the carbs, cleaned and regapped the plugs, cleaned the air filter and drained the tank.

    So I put it all back together, fresh fluids and all, I turn the key and nothing. I ran the battery flat trying to get it started, no combination of throttle or choke would get it to even splutter. However when clutch started it would show signs of life and finally got it to run (barely) and rode down the road (20m or so), the troubling thing is it had stuff all power and was ticking quite loudly. I checked to see if it was getting adequate spark and I couldn't see any at all.

    The ticking is really worry though, considering its timed correctly and the chain has the right amount of slack/tension, I am totally perplexed.

    TL;DR :

    I changed the timing chain and followed all of the necessary guidelines on doing so and the bike won't start unless I clutch start it and even that takes a lot, when it runs it does so like **** and makes a lot of ticking won't maintain idle and dies instantly off throttle.

    So that is where I am now, flat broke (unemployed with a mortgage is a bad combination), with no transport, with $1200 invested in a bike that doesn't run.

    I am hoping you guys can help me brainstorm some troubleshooting ideas.


    Thanks, Connor.
     
  2. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Hey Connor

    Sorry to hear you are having troubles, did you by chance change your spark plugs when you did the timing chain change ? I would pull the plugs and have a look at the colour of the plugs. The other simple check is make sure your leads are in the correct order and that the caps are screwed in correctly, you could be running on 2 or 3 cylinders which could cause the funny sounds you are hearing. I would also check your air \ fuel mix screws, they should be set between 2.5 and 2 3/4 turns out. If everything else checks out, maybe do a compression test with the carbs off, or by holding the throttle wide open. You can try a teaspoon of oil down each pot and see how that effects your compression test.

    Finally, the correct starting procedure for your bike is no throttle and full choke, once the bike starts and settles into a rhythm, lower the choke until it reaches riding temp. These are hardy little engines , hopefully its something simple.
    Chris
     
  3. MakingBacon

    MakingBacon Member

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    Thanks for the reply.

    I believe the leads are in the correct order, looking from the rear towards the front wheel the coil on the right is 1/4 and the left coil serves 2/3 is this right?

    Also two leads pulled right out of the caps, I guess this is my issue, well at least I hope so. Now I have to track some new ones down.
     
  4. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  5. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    is yours an A or a C model ? if you are not sure, do you a single or twin headlights ?
     
  6. MakingBacon

    MakingBacon Member

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    I literally just did that and just came back and saw this, I am yet try to start it. Thanks mate.

    91/92 build I am fairly sure, it has C fairings on it.
     
  7. MakingBacon

    MakingBacon Member

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    Ok so I have spark on 1-2-3-4 now but still nothing, wouldn't even clutch start.

    So I am guessing it's a fuel issue. I shall crack on.
     
  8. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    have you adjusted your idle screw too low ?
     
  9. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    If its a C model are u starting it with the fuel tap on 'prime' ? .... prime allows the fuel to free flow then when its running it should be set to 'on' which , if setup correctly, the fuel runs via the vacuum system
     
  10. MakingBacon

    MakingBacon Member

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    Is that the one above the clutch cable with a little knob on it?

    The last time I tried to start it I think I may have had it on ON.
     
  11. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    when you pulled the carbs, did you pull the slow \ pilot jets out and ensure you can see through each of them ?

    Also the main jet holder \ emulsion tubes should be clean, you should be able to see through each of the fine holes down each side ?

    zxr250_carb.JPG
     
  12. MakingBacon

    MakingBacon Member

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    I pulled the carbs again to double check and everything was clean as a whistle.

    I put everything back together and chucked some new plugs in and managed to get it to start a few times, once again it wouldn't hold idle but it wasn't as rough as before but still not 100%, the ticking was still there. Except this time the bike would respond to throttle inputs, no throttle and full throttle made no difference to the running of the bike.

    I also noticed when I pulled the plugs to check them after it started that 1 was flooded, 2 were sooty and the other looked pretty much new?
     
  13. MakingBacon

    MakingBacon Member

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    Well after spending $170 towing the bike to a mechanic only to be told "I thought you said zzr250, nah we don't know much about the grey imports " and exhausting most of my small amount of knowledge of bikes and carbs I have decided I will just part it out if I can get enough interest.


    I'll put up a for sale thread eventually.
     
  14. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Ticking could be valve clearances. Considering you struggled to start it from the button but could clutch start it (this makes the motor spin faster and can compensate for some loss in compression) I reckon you need to take the top off and check those for compression problems. If it has started you're getting spark and fuel, running crap at idle can also be attributed to compression (as well as weird things happening in the chamber because low compression means the fuel/air mix won't ignite properly).

    It's a pretty easy job and considering you've done a harder one with the cam chain and you already know how to time it... what do you have to lose?

    Good luck ;)
     

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