Where can I get a float needles / rebuild kit?

I suspect I have one or more leaking or sticky float needles as whenever the bike sits for more than a minute when hot, it requires throttle to start and will splutter for a bit. Once that's cleared out its fine

Idle screws are currently 2 turns out and it still feels very slightly rich so I suspect sticky floats and would like to replace them. The seals on the needle seats were also pretty cruddy so.it could be them. A rebuild kit would be great, or individual floats and the correct o-ring size for the seats.

I can't find them specifically for the FZR but no doubt it shares the floats with plenty of other carbs. My carbs are from the 2KR series, if that makes a difference

 

Yep the one maelstrom posted is correct. I've already stripped and cleaned the carbs previously, hence how I know the o-rings are pretty crappy.

I'm inclined to just order the valve needle set alone as I didn't thoroughly inspect the needles or the sleeve and I know that both can wear
I definitely don't need float bowl o-rings or the metal washers. If it's worthwhile for you is it possible to leave those out of the order at a reduced price? In which case i'll give that a go first. Not a bad idea to replace the pilot screw o-rings, and wasn't aware the main jet had spacers/o-rings

 

On further analysis it appears I may need some additional seals, just peered at one of the carbs and noticed a little red liquid on one of the bowl screws. Not sure why its red but i'm guessing fuel mixed with something, it's not oil, its not coolant. I ordered both kits just cause I don't want to find I missed 1 seal and have to do it all again. I'll leave the float needles for now and see how just the seals go

Cheers

 

It's Delo 400 which is your regular light honey color

 

daaaaaaaamnit! I got the seal kit and starting stripping the carbs again to clean them. Started pulling the butterfly valves out, carb #2's butterfly valve wiggled and skewed a bit, but seemed jammed. It continued to slowly rotate and I couldn't get it straight again (so the screw holes didn't line up). It felt very jammed on one side. I tried for an hour to get it to rotate correct again and nope it was solidly jammed on 1 side. Since I couldn't even reinstall the screws I just had to get it out... so I went as gentle as I could to tap it out from the other side, but the butterfly valve didn't look very healthy. Sure enough it had been nicked up and there was even a jammed piece of copper in the slot that had ripped off. This looks like the cause of the issue initially, maybe it had cracked and then broken off

Anyway I cleaned up the butterfly valve as best I can, needed a lot of sanding to get it smooth again but it doesn't even come close to providing a seal, there's so much light getting past the valve. It's cactus

The butterfly valve is stamped 135... Any idea where I can get another one???? The butterfly valve assemble isn't even shown on the parts diagram

 

I'm having a hell of a difficult time even finding 1mm thick brass. Local wreckers had no carbs with similar size butterflys. Any additional help in either finding a replacement or even getting offcuts of brass? This is an insanely difficult process which really shouldn't be that hard......

 

cheers. Spent most of the day trying to chase down any brass without luck. Ordered this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252156466469?_trksid=p2060353.m2748.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT want it sooner rather than later

Have a place that will cut some out with waterjet, bit suspect on the tolerance but will give it a go first, can always fine tune with hand files and sandpaper

 

Finally got the brass and finally got it cut with the water jet machine. It was a bit tricky, he drew up the dimensions with an oval shape that matched the original, but when actually cutting it there were some issues. The first being that the water jet does not leave a smooth edge, it has to be filed hence I asked for it to be slightly oversize to account for the need to file it smooth. So that's no problem we did it about 0.4mm oversize

But also that we suspect the cutter isn't cutting perfectly straight and is shooting off to a slight angle, because the design had the bolt holes placed directly in the middle but when measured they were almost 1mm offset, so we had to account for that. Anyway here's the finished template



When placing an original one on top of that they are almost identical, its very hard to pick the difference by eye. However they do require filing and sanding to get them down to shape. It took me about 2 hours of very careful filing to get it to this stage



That's a very bright LED light behind it, with a typical house light you can't see any leakage. I'm pretty happy with that and I doubt I could get it much closer. I even put a slight taper on the edge to help it sit better

If anyone needs any replacement plates i'm happy to send some out. The design template is now saved on their machine, so if anyone wanted a bunch produced I can get as many of them cut as you want. They do require some fine tuning, but is A LOT less work than trying to cut one entirely by hand......... I wouldn't even want to attempt that given how fine the clearances are

 

Did you put a taper on the edges of yours or just get the edges the right dimensions? I just reassembled and noticed that ALL of the butterfly valves leak at least some light if you get the angles right. I'm using 3 originals and 1 custom. Anyway I did notice the custom one is still binding up, couldn't really sync them properly, #1 wasn't closing enough to make the idle screw really do much. So I will have to file it a bit further to get it to close more. It's currently idling at around 3200rpm at the lowest, and the sync is definitely off

If you kept your edges straight then i'll do the same and not bother with trying to get the taper right, adds another variable that could go wrong