wheelies

This is a mate from NorthSideXtreme

 

OK this is something i tried after having my bike for 3 weeks, i found if u dump it at around 10k when u take off it breaks into wheel spin, so rolling at around 5 to 10k's and then clutch it to 12k u can get it up probably about 2 foot then it dies after about 5 metres but its still fun, Ive heard of using the back pegs, letting the back down to 15psi and stuff but not game enough to try it. However I think u will find the front calibers great for endo's being such a lite 250 bike

I think if i can get the front up for that bit then anyone can cos i weigh about 90-92kg's

Cheers,
Troy

 

I've been practicing them lately on my dirtbike - although it's lighter and more powerfull (and geared differently) to the fizzer. I've been told that on the dirt you pretty much have to know how to mono (to get over logs, up and down ledges, etc)… So I've started practicing.

Technique I use at this stage (and I've only popped about 10 wheelies in total - they still scare the crap out of me) is to get the tacho just into the powerband, stand up, "bounce" the bike (jump down on the pegs) and as soon as the forks start to rebound, snap open the throttle and pull back on the bars.

Main thing to remember - cover the rear brake AT ALL TIMES with your foot. If you get too high then you can use it to bring you back down softly. If you start to loop it then stamp on the break. Better to blow your fork seals (~$150 inc. labour) than loop your bike (~$$$$)

There's also a saying I like - if you can't afford to replace it, you can't afford to race it. Well, the same goes for stunting.

Anyway...
I still haven't got much control yet. I can get it up but have no idea where the balance point is. Last night the gf reckoned I got it about 4 feet off the ground - highest I've done yet and it's still too freaky to make me want to try and balance there.

Standing up helps you to shift your weight back. Some people also stand up with the left foot on the pillion peg (right foot covering the brake) - but I reckon this would prevent you pulling back straight, which means it may go back down crooked and put you in a nasty tank slapper.

The idea is that the first 2" or so is the most difficult - get it past that and the rest becomes simple. Compressing the front forks by bouncing the bike means that it springs back higher than normal, so momentum + extra hight = easier mono.

On a 4 stroke you have the advantage of compression braking - snapping the throttle closed will shift the weight forward and compress the forks (so no bouncing required). When the forks are at the bottom of their stroke, snap the throttle back on - the weight shifts back, the forks rebound and the front can come up (with enough power).

I havent' done it on my FZR - it's still off the road - but I reckon to practice:
1)
- find a nice quiet straight stretch of road. Make sure you're wearing ALL your gear (boots, pants, jacket, gloves, helmet).
- take it to about 12k rpm in first. Experiment with snapping the throttle closed and then slowly rolling it back on to get a feel for how it compresses the front forks.

2)
- do it a couple of times. Start getting a feel for when the forks reach the bottom of their compression stroke.
- When you're comfortable, practice snapping the throttle closed and (once the forks have compressed) roll it back on quickly. Nothing should really happen because your weights too far forward and the bike doesn't have that much power.
- do this a couple of times until you start to get a feel for its predictability.

3)
- Stand up and experiment with snapping the throttle closed but only slowly rolling it back on. Again getting a feel for compression while you're standing.
- Slowly speed up how quickly you roll the throttle on. If you reckon you're snapping it on fast, and nothigns happening, then start to experiment by shifting your weight further back, or by pulling back on the bars.


I reckon the main things are:

Tell someone where you're going, but go by yourself. Peer pressure makes you do stupid sh!t.

Make sure no ones around so you don't feel like an idiot. You want to be relaxed so you can feel the bike, not stressed and uptight.

WEAR YOUR GEAR!

COVER THE REAR BRAKE!

DON'T RUSH IT! Take time and build up to it slowly. It takes patience, but each time you will feel the front end get a bit lighter and you'll know you're getting closer.

DON'T RUSH IT! (sorry for double emphasis). There's no hurry. No ones around to see you look like an idiot pulling back on the bars with all your might. It'll happen. Take it easy and learn to control it.

 

I managed once to get my front wheel very light im sure it was almost off the ground... when I pulled off from the traffic lights at abit too high pace

 

i ride my cuzins cbr250r ... very similar to the Fzr 250, engine wise

i sit far back on the seat

cover rear break

roll at 20kph

in 1st , clutch in

Rev it to about 16000rpm and just let go of the clutch

It will launch sky wards like a rabbit

you will most likely **** yourself and back off so it comes down

Ive noticed when you DONT lift the handle bars it wheelies better

its a stock standard cbr250r

 

WTB: New basket & clutch plates for CBR250R. <!-- s:alcoholic: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_all_coholic.gif" alt=":alcoholic:" title="Alcoholic" /><!-- s:alcoholic: -->

There's something i don't like about clutching up a mono. Oh that's right... the pain and suffering your clutch and chain are subjected to! By all means, if you don't mind replacing the basket and plates every major service (~8000km's) then go for it.

On a litre bike however, it's good fun. Shift weight backwards, maintain steady speed ~30km/h then just give the throttle a snap and she'll lift.
I've found that if you want the impressive mono's then i need to stand on the rear pegs to (attempt) to get it to the balance point.

 

the bikes got around 70000kms on the clock and every time the bike is taken out ... its on one wheel


Still changes like when my cuzin bought it

pretty strong i reckon

 

If you clutch up wheelie you fry the clutch real fast, i've found out the hard way.

 

it really depends on how you let it go

If you let it slip thats when the most damage is happening

Just let it go ... it will Grab and wont wear as much as sliping it

and if your not confident DONT try it hahah

 

Well that's partly true and partly incorrect.
If you quickly drop the clutch then it WILL damage the basket, and it WILL put significant strain on the plates which will wear them. On the other hand, if you slip the clutch you won't be doing as much if any damage to the basket... and you may not even do as much damage to the plates.

Reason being is if you take a piece of sandpaper and move it quickly over a surface perhaps 10 times... you'll notice it will scuff it but not much. Drag it heavily over the same surface and it'll score it deeply. Dropping the clutch is like pushing hard with the sandpaper.

If you keep slipping it to the point where you overheat the friction material then you'll definitely be doing more damage than dropping it, but a different sort of damage. You'll be cooking oil and releasing nasty clutch particles into the oil system aswell as potentially small pieces of clutch and basket.

Also, no one has mentioned that if your dropping the clutch for a loftie then you'll be stressing the chain well beyond what it was ever intended to do. The stress tolerances on a big bike are significantly larger than on a small bike; but even still... popping the occasional lofty on my bike has accelerated wear and tear on the chain and sprockets.

 

Just power it up, Koma, and let it back down gently under power and a little rear brake, or ease off the power ever so slightly. Don't wanna have to replace them fork seals. Woot!

 

It'll rise up in first just winding on the throttle, but won't do anything but skip in 2nd. Also, all lofties are a little more difficult than usual at the moment as my chain adjustment is extended as far back as it will go. I'm sure a new chain & sprocket set (and up it to a 49 rear) will help things out. <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s -->

Also, its about to get it's valves done (a few of the intakes are getting noisy and are definitely out of spec), and a carby balance once that's finished. I'm sure it'll feel like a fresh bike again when im finished.

 

You could wait until you get bigger and better bikes, then tune them up for this stuff.

We've established that getting it up (inexperienced) on a 250 causes extreme wear and tear and the potential for accidents. Thus simply making it not worth it and not worth trying.

However, once you attain the skill on a bigger bike, you will find it much easier to go back on a 250 and know how <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s -->

Let's face it, most of you guys would be learners or cheap commuters, if you wanted power etc you'd have bigger bikes. You'll all most probably sell the Fizzer within a short time anyway.

Sorry if I'm ruining the fun, but it's true <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s -->

 

can you reach from the pillion seat? that might help shift heaps of the weight backwards????????????????

 

I sold my baby Fizzer and bought a monster Fizzer! <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s -->
There's a fair few of us that have stayed true to the FZR ways and have either gone up to FZR's, YZF's, or other EXUP'd bikes. I know for a fact we've got atleast 2x FZR1000's, a FZR600, a YZF750, and a few Thundercats.

That's said im looking higher up the EXUP food chain as we speak.