What Battery model ?

my 1990 3ln-1 fzr250r takes a Yuasa Toplite YB10L-A2.

If you get this battery, it is purchased dry, so the the battery dudes fill it and charge it, so in the end it takes a hour or two before the battery is ready.

 

One letter? <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s --> Sorry...

CB10L-A2
Capacity at 10HR (AH) 11
Dimensions (mm): 136 x 91 x 146
Weight without acid: 3.15 kg
Approximate weight of acid: 0.8 kg
terminal types: D, E
(From <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.apollobatteries.com.au/mcpage1.htm">http://www.apollobatteries.com.au/mcpage1.htm</a><!-- m --> )

YB10L-A2
Voltage: 12
Capacity: 11
Dimensions: 135mm x 90mm x 145mm (I found another set of specs for this same batter and it listed it at 137 x 91 x 147)
Weight (no acid): 3.2 kg
(from <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery.asp?bID=B37&vID=4148">http://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery.a ... 7&vID=4148</a><!-- m --> )

Sounds like they are equivelant, and just different brands.

FZRDude has pointed out that there are only about 5 actual manufacturers for automotive type batteries in the world - most companies just put their own brand and labels on them.

 

hey guys!

Well i do have a strange problem indeed...not sure if it's the alternator or the battery. Firstly i have a Fzr'88 with the battery model no: CB9l-A2 which only holds 9Ah compared to the nominated CB10L-A2 which holds 11Ah.

Anyhow the other day i couldn't start the bike, so i took out my multimeter and did some testing.

Basically on idle I would get around 12V, however with the light turned on it would go down to 11.5V or even 11V. Once i crancked up the throttle (3000rpm to be exact) even with the lights on the voltage across the battery jumped up to 14.2V...what do u think could be the problem?? I dont think it is the alternator since it is charging well (unless the little brushes are on they way out), or could it be the smaller battery not holding enough charge at lower RPM???

 

Sounds about normal for a FZR except that the battery may be a bit flat or weak - I suspect you checked with the multimeter after you had been cranking for a while trying to get it started.

A charged battery in good condition should hold 12v or more with lights on.

The FZR has permanent magnet type alternator - no brushes, and they dont put a lot of current out at idle.

DAVE

 

Do a quick test on it like this. Go out on the highway, carriage way, freeway, what ever you call it. Run the bike for about 20 minutes keeping the rpms up around 5k or better.

Then stop the bike, put the meter across the batt terminals and take a reading AS you crank it.

What kind of voltage do you get?

 

Yep, I've seen this phenomenon before in heavy diesel trucks. If your charge voltage is hitting 14.5 volts, there is little wrong with it. You mention that the battery fitted is only 9a/h. This figure refers to the DISCHARGE output.
It is most likely that your battery hasn't got the bollox to do the job,especialy if it's done a bit of service.
Customer's generally go for the cheaper option because " a battery is a battery, Right??? " Wrong. It may be the same physical size and shape with 12Volt stamped on it but the Amperres/Hour discharge rate is very important. Go down your local budget car parts store and compare price with spec against the cheapest on sale and a name brand like Varta. thats when you realise why cheap is cheap.

 

Yup I've finally tested the bike (bad weather etc prevented me to do so for a few days). After a riding for around 15 min, the voltage across the battery, when i crancked it that is, was around 14.2V with the lights off and around 13.2V when the light were on.

I don't think it's the charging system, as the previous posts have confirmed it, very possibly the battery. I'm not going to buy a new battery straight away, basically I'll give it a little rev before switching the bike off, just enough to get it started again. I'll see what happens...