Just thought i might let you guys in on this I have started using an aussie made oil from PM Lubricants Brisbane and fuel addative. See <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.pmlubricants.com.au">www.pmlubricants.com.au</a><!-- w --> I have not used these in the fzr yet (its not even on the road yet i am bloody slack) but in the VT commodore 6 cyl it has made all the difference. The fzr will be treated when i get around to it. Every 5000k's they monitor the oil quality for free, all going well the oil should last 50-60 000 k's! yep, thats right- up to 60 000 k's! just change the oil filter every 10 000. And there was an instant power boost and considerable fuel saving from either the fuel addative and the oil. PM make lubes for anything from heavy machinery to race/ drag applications. I will never use another oil again. This year i will be changing all my fluids to PM's range including trannys and diffs. Why am i telling you this? I am not getting paid for this testemony. Nor do i recieve any benefit from PM or any other company. Simply I am quite amazed by the products performance, and being rather festidious with my machines, I can confidantly say I am 100% happy with the product thus far. Besides, it's Aussie made and if millions of $ worth of mining and farming equipment choose to use these lubes, i'm sure my pissy collection of cars & bikes will benefit. After all, instead of changing at 5000 k's, i'm now looking at up to 60! Thanks for your time Brad
Hey Brad, nice write up. Do they make an oil specificly for motorcycles? You'll want to check on that. Regular motor oils generally have friction modifiers what do not work well with a clutch being bathed in the same oil.
Absolutly they make oils specifically for bikes. They even make grease! Come to think of it- to save time i'll just list the things they don't make fluids for- na can't think of anything brad
Ummm Castrol GTX + filter and change it 3000km like the book says and you'll be fine. A bit $richer$ as well. The reason this company is prepared to give these guarantees is they know like the rest of the industry that while the engine is watercooled and running within temp spec the oil will last as long as the buffering agent like magnesium etc are still in there to neutralise the acidic components of ring blow-by. The filter just takes the abrasive carbon etc from the oil. If you want to leave your oil little longer run Diesel Oil as they have far greater concentration of buffering additive to deal with the nasties diesel engines produce. BTW its a little bit colder all year round in Japan - maybe the oil grade specified might be a little on the runny side.
ok starter.. When they monitor the oil @ 5000k's (or when specified) they actually tell you what impurities are in it ie metals, water, carbon etc. They monitor the oil on site to tell you if the oil is still servicable or if it advisable to change it. I posted this and believe what i was told because as soon as i started using it in the VT i noticed far greater accelleration, far better fuel economy (city cycle 17 lts/100kms down to 14-14.5 lts/100 kms) lower operating temp, far less top end noise, quicker cranking at cold. So if this is all true, then there MUST be less friction therefore wear. I started using the fuel addative long before the oil so i could guage a fairly accurate difference in fuel consumption & power (if any). I'm sorry mate, but Castrol GTX is, well, a cheap oil for a cheaper market. I think you will find most people here run a synthetic like Motul or Shell or even castrol equivalent for a reason at about $50.00 for five litres. I know the Motul is good. Is the PM better? not sure but it is locally manufactured from local ingredients so I am happy to give it a go. As for the watercooled bit- i have a CB 750/4 aircooled which has been modified almost as far as it will go and they still make the same representations. Providing the filter is changed at 6000 k's the monitoring will tell me if the oil is doing as it should Ok i am a little obsessive with my machines, but i want to make sure the life blood of my toys is as good as i can get within reason.. I do agree with you starter about 1 thing entirely- the specified 10w30 for the fzr is too light for hot climates. I'm not trying to be a smart ass here but i know what good oil is worth...
All I'm saying is don't get too carried away on oil in an engine that has factory specified changes every 3000km. As long as the oil passes the recommend API rating and is NOT energy conserving (contains moly - friction modifiers) use any car oil. Spend your money elsewhere on the filter everytime - the part that actually matters. I have a box full of Centron II products sitting next to me that the salesman claimed was OEM certified for the machinery I manage. Ran it past their technical guys and they told me I could use the 25,000hr maintenance contract for toilet paper if that stuff goes anywhere near the machines.
different bikes (even if they are the exact same model) may act different depending on the type of oil being used. My current bike (yzf750) has much smoother gear changes etc. when I use fully or partially synthetic oil. It has very clunky gear changes when I put in non-synthetic 4-stroke oil in it. So use what works for you. I have found a brand of oil that works well for my current bike, and I will stick with it.
