So i got word back from my mechanic today .... not good, the bike that i bought off my friend and only got to ride twice seems to be dead <!-- s:cry: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cry.gif" alt=":cry:" title="Crying or Very sad" /><!-- s:cry: --> The mechanic ran a compression test and got only a bit of pressure out of one cylinder he put his thumb over the top of the cylinder and it wouldn't even blow his thumb off, he said there was some rust or something around the valves, and well he just said the engine is dead. Looks like I'm in the worst bind. Should I go to another mechanic and get a second opinion, the mechanic that has it now is a friend of a friend and isn't charging me anything for the work done to it. Someone told me castle hill motorcycles might be a good option to go and get it checked out. But I don't know it doesn't sound good **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** fuk .khaw, vh.ds.jvsed sorry for that <!-- s:cry: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cry.gif" alt=":cry:" title="Crying or Very sad" /><!-- s:cry: -->
Lack of compression can mean several different things. Not all mean your motor is dead. All of the options below are not cheap, but can be done by a qualified mechanic or a really good, home wrench turner. 1. Valves could be way out of adjustment. Meaning that the valves are not seating during the compression stroke. Do the math: 20 valves means 20 shims that "may" need replacing @ approx. $5 a shim. 2. Rings. Engine overhaul recommended, but not required. Gonna have to do the valves anyway at this point. 3. Head gasket. Not a huge bit of work, but definitely needs fixing. Oh and you'll be doing the valves here too. 4. Piston. Not good. Complete engine rebuild required. Valves again here. 5. Head is toast. Guess what? You don't have to do the valves. Now there might be a pattern here, so if I were you, I'd change the blinker fluid.
Have you mentioned any of this to your friend and what does he think? Was the bike working originally? I hope that things end up working out!
yeah that's the problem the bike was working originally and my friend knew nothing of any major problems he told me of a couple of minor things, but for all intensive purposes it worked when I recieved it then I stalled it a couple of times and that's when it wouldn't start again. <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sad.gif" alt="" title="Sad" /><!-- s -->
It does sound strange... While having a friend mechanic working on it is great it may be worthwhile forking out a bit of money to have it assessed by a mechanic who is experienced with fzr's (perhaps your friend is...). Perhaps some of the sydney siders could suggest a person you could visit?
Just a thought... You could check to see if the compression is being lost thru either the top or the bottom of the engine by testing the compression, putting a small amount of oil in the cylinder, turning it over and re-checking the compression. If the compression goes up after you added oil, then the oil is helping to seal the rings to the cylinder wall - hence new rings etc... If it doesn't go up, then it most likely the top end gasket/valves... And you can do what I did when my yzf600r died, get a mate around and rebuild it with just the torque settings for the head... Started first shot too after that... <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: --> Good luck.
could be the shims, there supposed to be done EVERY 20,000 kms i have been told by a reliable mechanic that imports them over here, apparently what happens to a lot of them is that they are sold to new riders who have the mechanical awareness of monkeys <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: --> and they are left unnattended. does the bike take ages to start when its cold???? my valve clearances were so far out that the valves were opening and not closing <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: --> and the bike STILL RAN <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: --> <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: --> <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: --> but they were this far out after only 27,000 kms so i recommend everyone takes this advice very seriously
Looks like it's caput! Got the carbs balanced, full service and still won't run 150 bux lata. On the mechanic's report he wrote "found rust in float bowls, from fuel tank" no compression and some sort of rust on the valves so by all money it's goooone. I might be able to get some money back off my mate I'm hoping 2000 - 2500 of the original 3500 is reasonable given that it is gonna cost me at least that to fix it if i decide to. Looks like I will probably end up taking that money and buying a ZZR-250 =\
hey this is an exact transcript of what my mechanic wrote, he charged me $150. 2 Hours - Removed seat tank + fairings, removed radiator, removed plugs, checked compression. compression very low. Spark plugs fouled. Fit spark plugs. engine started. Removed carbs + check settings, choke OK, etc. found rust in float bowls, from fuel tank. Reassembled + tune etc. Run engine + tune + balance carbs, running ok. stalled on throttle increase. engine wouldn't run again. after a day or soit started then fouled the spark plugs again, indicating a problem that is likely to be caused by lack of compression.
try posting this (including mechanic feedback) on the <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.exupbrotherhood.com">www.exupbrotherhood.com</a><!-- w --> site in the tech tips section (if you post it in the fzr250 area you may not get many readers). The guys there are much more experienced at troubleshooting than people here (Tim being the exception).
okay cool thanks boz I just did. I got the bike started today on full choke took about 20 seconds, then once warm i got it started again 3 seconds, sounds and feels like it could be misfiring but I'm not sure, bit of black/grey smoke when I revved it and the exhaust smelled a little rich but again not sure. the fact there is no compression in the cylinders could answer the orginal problem I had with the bike and it not wanting to drive at revs lower than 4000, if i had it in gear and at low revs it just wanted to put out and stall even if in first probably my crappy riding ability but yeah. see what happens
