Suzuki RGV 250 VJ22 A - Resuscitation

• The plan is to rebuild to same spec but not to original (hate purple) paint and decals ending up with a good little coastal day runner. So at this point for paint it is to be Aprilia Rosso2 with just the S on the tank and the rims dark grey with polished alloy outer.
  The bike was in a very sad state and was sitting under a tarp for several years collecting rust and was even taken to by a hungry dog.
  At this stage the motor is not to be touched as it turned OK so we will see at the end.
  Firstly sourced as much information, manuals, pictures and schematics from the net as I could find, also took a bunch of pictures before stripping and during, sure helps during reassembly.
  This really is learn as it goes so.....
  
  
  
  Stage One - Cleanup
  
  Bike was degreased and cleaned up. With the fairing removed the bike was hung from the ceiling using tie down straps, really good as the straps allowed me to winch the bike to the right height. Engine was internally oiled and the carbs removed and cleaned.
  
  Everything was removed from the frame except the motor. Groups of parts sorted to be sent away, for re chroming, zinc plating and anodizing.
  As the forks had some rust spots at the lower end that would not cleanup thus destroying the new seals. Both legs were sent to a fork re chromer in Qld and I did not have to removed the bottom mount from the legs ,took about 5 weeks great job.
  
  
  While waiting I started to order parts on the net being away from a supplier it works well,,so far.
  
  For cosmetics, a new set of blinkers, throttle grips and ends. A replacement front guard, center fairing and a right hand side fairing along with a rear mudguard/toolbox. The fuel tank and the ignition key did not work, so ordered both from the net. Both require a little work to remove without damaging anything else.
  The forks were re anodized from faded gold to semi black. The sub frame, swing arm and sterring gear were also given a new coat of paint.
  
  On the mechanical side , it was found at as the bike was sitting in the one spot for a long period the swing arm bearings were rusted on the bottoms. They we sent to be press out and the new ones fitted.
  Fork seals leaked so new and the inner sleeves replaced.
  Set of new brake lines in red as old were past there use by date along with the pads.
  
  Stage Two - Assembly Finish
  
  All the parts were reassembled and bike was back on its feet. The radiator was flushed and cleaned before refitting.
  
  
  
  
  Bled the two stroke oil to the pump by removing the drain bled at the pump end. Will also add a mild two stroke mix to the tank as insurance just to give time to make sure that the pump is really working OK.
  
  Installed a new gel battery. Checked all electrics’ worked, tested with a meter that there was voltage at the coils. Checked the plug that there was a spark and make sure there was not when flicking the kill switch.
  
  When assembling the forks ensure all the head parts are well and truly tight other wise it will be a pain after the fact. It does not show but part 21 breaks it to two parts, both can unscrew even during assembly. I made two very simple tools to assist with reassembly from a coat hanger. One to pull the center rod up to the head and another to go through the hole in 18 to hold it while fitting part 21.
  
  Part 21 the head cap is rather fragile so be careful with any force. Fill the oil prior to screwing down part 21, As there was not much room to allow filling of the fork oil. I used a piece cut off a plastic bottle rolled it and feed it into the small gap between the top outer casing and the header cap 21 filled it through that, it worked great no wastage on the floor. A check at the top of the both forks to ensure they end up the same height, should help tell if something is or not correctly fitted internally.
  
  
  
  Connected the engine oil pump with a fresh oil line and bled the pump line by removing the small screw at the pump.
  
  To check that the oil pump, carb and power valves are in sink I did the following, after some reading.
  
  Step
  1. Remove the filter box and turn the throttle until the bottom of both sliders align with the marks on either side of the carb inlet, if not both same adjust until both are at the same point. Kept a mil or 2 free play it the cables.
  2. Check and adjust the oil pump as per below picture, really self explanatory.
  3. Power valves, I'am not looking forward to this. Some one tell me if I'am doing any wrong.
  4. As all the cables were removed, check from the manual the pattern of the two lower (PV) cables and fitted same.
  5. Adjusted cables so they aligned with the mark on the cable pulley to the first mark on the bracket , leaving slack as shown
  6. The top (PV) cables fitted to the pulley and then fitted to the PV shaft seemed easier, lock on shaft with the screw. then adjust to the same setting as the other and no slack, do not over tighte
  7. Assembly all with well oiled cables and greased moving areas during assembly.
  I think that this will do for the start up and later will adjust again better ??. All the info came from this sites manuals.
  
  Stage Three - Body
  
  I should have purchased a complete kit as I think (know) I will spend more by the time I fit what I now have to the bike. Thanks to Scotchy I obtained the missing clips and brackets as new from Suzuki...yes a happy camper.!!
  
  
  I have missing lugs on the side panels and missing small section on the kerb side fairing. So going to order Plastiflex from the US and give it a try..

 

Hi
Thanks so do I a bit to go but can no wait to see the war paint on it...Bear

 

Hi Noah

Thanks I know a little.
I was looking for a new ride and had my mind on a Trump and my daughter had this in the back yard for several years, and I'am guessing she thought I needed to have something to do, no history other than a hard life.
Its done around 50k and as said really would have made a good spares bike, but its getting there. Great that there are still parts out there makes it easier to rebuild.
Cannot wait to paint it as I think the red will look "hot".
Plan for some followup more cosmetic with a engine rebuild in winter after completing, if the engine its a basket cas. Will start it in the nest couple of weeks so will see how bad/good it is.

As an old t/stroker2'er I'am looking forward to the first blast..

Your RGV looks GOOD! in the small pic..

All the best Bear

 

Move away, last post... thanks guys Bear