Hi again, I have a feeling that my red fuel light doesn't work. I've checked the bulbs but they are fine. I suppose I should check the wiring from the tank floats? Otherwise, I've noticed in several videos online that both lights come on when the ignition is first turned on before it's started. Is this true here (these were Japanese videos)? If so, neither lights come on for me. I've only seen the orange light the once when I first bought it not long ago (yeah, I don't ride much obviously) and after a couple of short runs it was empty with no red light. Is this a common problem with a common fix or will I have to get searching the wiring (or the sender(s)) myself? I couldn't find anything with an online search.
Hey twowheeledbike There are 2 senders on the bottom of the tank with wiring that goes back to the wiring harness for the lights, I'd check the loom is connected to the senders first. I think I still have a tank at home, will try and post a pic of the sender if I do. thanks Chris
Perfect, thanks for that. I just pulled the wheel front wheel off to get a new tyre so I may as well pull all the rest of the fairing off and hunt down that wiring harness when I get back. You wouldn't believe how worn and perished both tyres were! I couldn't believe the guy was riding them like that!
Re: Suzuki Across - Fuel Lights/Potential Electrical Issue? Unfortunately it was all plugged in. I've noticed that since I played around with my choke cable (don't ask - I was a bit creative putting it back) that now my start button only works with the handle-bars being wiggled in one spot. The connections are all fine (that I could see) which leaves me to suspect perished wiring. I'm guessing that's possibly the case with the fuel level senders as well (although I guess they could be faulty). Have these ever been known to have perished wiring problems?
My warning light (second stage fuel light) has never functioned... have other issues to work on though atm.
Im not aware of any known wiring issues with the Across, however in saying that we dont really know how well the bike was cared for by previous owners. My advice would be the pull down the manual from the downloads section and check the cable routes and make sure they are in the right place. Then look at each connector to your harness, these can get dusty and in some cases corrode, I use WD40 to remove the junk, blow it clean with a compressor, then use CRC contact cleaner, once again blow dry with a compressor and its sweet. I have heard of people using Dielectric grease in the connectors, might be worth a look. Chris
Haha, after pulling everything apart tonight (finally the bike wouldn't start at all) and testing everything remotely related to the starting circuit I discovered the starting problem was just the clutch switch. I skipped over checking the clutch switch because the neutral light dims briefly when I pull the clutch in and also since my problem seemed to be affected by moving the handlebars around. I guess I was just shaking the switch around by moving the bars and that the switch was just grounding out causing the (in-line) neutral light to dim slightly. I "fixed" it by just taking the clutch switch out of the loop, although I'd better pull it out and fix it properly tomorrow. Why didn't I just check that first... Oh well, afterwards I had a nice 40 minute ride just for the heck of it so that makes up for my stupidity. EDIT: I was more interested in getting it started that checking the fuel sender wiring, so I guess that's a job for later as well.
I actually have 2 across's at the present moment and neither of them have any problems with the fuel lights both lights light up on both bikes however I will say the first time I rode my red one back from qld it did run out of fuel and the red light never came on only the orange one. I just go off the kms now I tend to go looking for a servo around the 160km and I haven't had a problem since lol
I know this thread is old but the according to the wiring diagram the fuel warning lights are earthed thru the oil pressure switch when there is no oil pressure, so with the key on and engine not running the lights will be on. There is also diodes between the lights and the tank level sensors
Has anyone had any more thoughts about this? I discovered today that my red light doesn't come on before I need to switch to reserve. Bugger, Cheers JM
